yeah, i havent had any electrical issues. All switches worked except the window switches which are not connected and I need to do that after this. all lights came on as they should and i've never experienced the 3800 rpm hesitation

 

okay i have a question regarding the ecu, would a stock ecu say "re-manufactured for Mazda" on it?

 

By definition, no.

A better question might be:
"My ECU has a sticker on it that says "Remanufactured for Mazda", could this be the reason my car crapped out eighteen days ago?"

I wonder who was doing the remanufacturing, what was involved and why it was necessary.

 

Well I took the panels off the ecu to see if anything had visually burned out but everything looks clean and brand new. Anyways it is a denso brand

 

Boy, will I ever feel stupid if the ECU isn't the problem.

Wait, I frequently feel stupid, so...nevermind.

 

that doesnt help much

i really need to get it running

 

hey which pin is the one I need to check for the CAS? I read on someone else who was having a similar problem to me and it was a short on the CAS pin in the ecu. I want to check it tonight so if someone could let me know that would be great

 

Pin 1N (Green), 1P (Blue), 1T (Red) and 1Q (White) are all CAS pins and they all should read less than 1 volt w/key to on and rather more like close to zero volts. An important test is the ohm test which is done with the "plug removed" at the ECU between 1N and 1P as well as 1T and 1Q. I believe you did this test at the CAS itself but it's more important at the ECU plug. Also, if you didn't get a reading on the first pin of the AFM yet that would be rather important to do in addition to the other stuff.

 

1U is 4.4V
1V is 0.00V
1X is 1.5V this is supposed to be 0.00
1N is .7V
1P is .7V
1T is .7V
1Q is .7V

Did we finally find our problem?

 

er uh, I just checked 1U and 1X again just to make sure and
1U is 4.6
1X is 2.8

 

I'd say that those numbers are out of spec. Now try the resistance test like satch mentioned above at the ECU. This will determine if the ECU is out of whack, or if the CAS is out of whack..... or the wiring to the CAS is out of whack rather. Something. Is. Out. Of. Whack.

You seem close.

 

Sad to say I forgot how to do the resistance test, lol. which probe goes where.

Also I checked the MAF and it's good, I forgot to mention that before

 

okay nevermind, I got it, the CAS test from the ECU connection reads 168 for both.

 

So, it seems like there is an issue with either the ECU or the CAS, Im not sure what the resistance specs are, wait for satch to chime in on that. But, both the ECU and CAS are dirt dirt cheap..... have you got an ECU on the way yet?

 

I was waiting for someone to tell me how much the shipping would be. But if he doesnt respond i have someone else who could send me one, the ecu that is

Also from the CAS itself I read 176 on resistance

 

Bump to anyone who knows about this stuff who wants to chime in

 

anyone?

 

No one wants to chime in and tell me what those readings mean?

 

If it falls within 110 to 210 ohms then it is within spec.

 

I'm not talking about the afm or cas but the pins that I read where it was supposed to be 0.00 but the voltage read higher

 

Your reading on pin 1X is off when compared to spec, but your car doesn't need the trailing coil to run. One pin you didn't measure related to the trailing coil is pin 1M which should be below 2 volts w/key to on but more like 1 volt.

 

I'm just trying to figure out why it won't run. If I don't need the trailing in order to run okay but what else could I check?

 

How new your new spark plugs look.

 

You do have the trailing spark plugs in still, right? Just not connected?

 

I believe he reconnected the trailing coil when someone asked him why the tach wasn't moving in one one his videos.