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I might be getting a T2!!!!! (wut 2 look for?)

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Old 01-06-06, 02:42 PM
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Talking I might be getting a T2!!!!! (wut 2 look for?)

well after selling my n/a fc about 5-6 months ago i miss that car so much. Well i might be buying a t2 for 4,000. ITs a 1990, red, second engine ( mazda remain) at 59k. The body has 198k

The mods are full turbo back with down pipe, Defi boost gauge, intake, and apexi safc.

Now im going to drive it on saturday to see if its worth it. Should i look for anything thing else suspect on a t2 vs. a n/a?

Any help would be great
Old 01-06-06, 03:14 PM
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Make sure its a new motor... I hope they have papers?
Old 01-06-06, 03:24 PM
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http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy2.htm
Old 01-06-06, 03:32 PM
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one thing htat most people do not put emphasis to check on is interior. do not be afraid if many electronics are borken or failing because it is an old car that always had crappy electrical even when new.

if the seats are original and perfect that shows how well the car is taken care of. also when the owner starts it before he lets you test drive it for the first time is a good way to tell if he is a good owner, if the owner warms up the car properly before letting you test drive that is a good sign. of course then follow those other instructions
Old 01-06-06, 03:39 PM
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the seats are in good shape there black leather. The drivers side has wear on it alittle probebly from rubbing...but the seats dont have any tears or anything. But the owner said that he bought it from a guy who owned it for 8 years and he bought it with 80k on it. Then he blew the engine and put the 2nd one in. Now the guy im buying it from just modded it alittle bit.

yea electrical problems i know about hands on. Wiring harness's are a bitch
Old 01-06-06, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Modified 7
the seats are in good shape there black leather. The drivers side has wear on it alittle probebly from rubbing...but the seats dont have any tears or anything. But the owner said that he bought it from a guy who owned it for 8 years and he bought it with 80k on it. Then he blew the engine and put the 2nd one in. Now the guy im buying it from just modded it alittle bit.

yea electrical problems i know about hands on. Wiring harness's are a bitch
i'll sell you my Tii convertible. Its a 88 black convertible with a red tii hood, never had time to get it painted, but the interior is red as well and it looks sporty like that. I have a gauge pillar pod with water temp and oil pressure gauges.

Car has like 160K on it, the tII swap has 82K, runs very strong.

I'd be more than happy if you'd like to check the compression before buying it. It also has an intake and dual exhaust, manual boost controller (which is not installed yet) new fuel pulsation dampener, new grounds, new 1000 cranking amp battery, and i'll put a new clutch in if you decide you want it.

I want $3200 firm for mine.
Old 01-06-06, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bacek
one thing htat most people do not put emphasis to check on is interior. do not be afraid if many electronics are borken or failing because it is an old car that always had crappy electrical even when new.

if the seats are original and perfect that shows how well the car is taken care of. also when the owner starts it before he lets you test drive it for the first time is a good way to tell if he is a good owner, if the owner warms up the car properly before letting you test drive that is a good sign. of course then follow those other instructions

actually id test drive it cold, you want to start it up cold, and see if it smokes alot, ( check if the oil control rings are ok) , getting the car compression tested by a local mazda dealer/rotary place, would aslo be a good idea when spending that much....

also u said it have a safc and stuff, who tuned the car ?? if its not tuned properly it might pop the motor quickly
Old 01-06-06, 04:45 PM
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I would want to test it cold too....especially if you show up and pop the hood and find its warm id be suspicious...

interior is a good way to judge the condition as mentioned....

also a buyers package is a MUST but I don't know if they have them where you are(and I actually forgot to look at your location - sorry)

drive it and listen for simple and common things like wheel bearing noise, driveline vibration - that kinda stuff. But as far as thing to look for that are different than what to look for on an N/A goes I would say boost stability. If you make a nice wide open pull in third gear watch the boost gauge and make sure you aren't getting any big spikes or drops........as well I would NOT buy it unless I was allowed to make such a pull up to the redline with the car if for no other reason than making sure the secondaries are working well.

If the guy doesn't want you to open it it up I'd be suspicious. Its one thing if he says "no test piolts" becuase in a case like that, you DONT NEED to drive it, you can tell its mint by looking at it and listening to it run. But if he;ll let you drive it, but not give it a good kick in the ***, hes hiding something.

BTW are you buying it certified and etested?
Old 01-06-06, 05:31 PM
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the person who has it is a 18 yr old kid who never had it e-tested or had tags on it. He said they fixed some problems with it and were going to put tags on it when it was all fixed. Now there in a lawsuit and need the money. Now its perfect as he says. I can take it around anywere far cause of the tags. But he said i can open it up till about 60 in/around his neigborhood.
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