Sandman FC

Hi guys my head is spinning around in circles trying to diagnose this

problem with my S5 N/A. Apparently my secondaries are not firing, let me tell what ive done so far. Okay first I tested the injectors with stethoscope, they arent clicking. Alright now Ive looked at both connecters, they are getting voltage.
I tested the OHM reading on the injectors and they are both about 13.5-14 ohms.
The last test I did was apply voltage directly to the injectors and they click. Ive checked over the grounds, regrounded some points, one ground fixed my Idle problem, but the main ground for the ecu is tight . I took off the plugs to the injectors and drove it and it does the exact same thing, so I know the secondaries arent coming on. I need more expertise can any body help me here?

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Make sure your trailing coil is grounded well. When I forgot to reattach mine the secondaries wouldn't come on.

NZConvertible

The trailing coils have nothing to do with the secondary injectors...

All the usual wiring problems seem to have been covered. Some secondary injector problems have been traced to the MAP sensor, which is what the ECU uses to trigger them. Check for ECU error codes, and check the MAP sensor as per the FSM.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Really? When I forgot to bolt my tailing coils down properly it hit a brick wall at 3800, so I just assumed the lack of ground effected them. OH well, I learned something today.

HAILERS

******problem with my S5 N/A. Apparently my secondaries are not firing, let me tell what ive done so far. Okay first I tested the injectors with stethoscope**************

What you've done is still vague to me.

Secondarys only fire when over 3800 rpm and there's a load on the engine which is in turn determined by the pressure sensor.

Are you listening to the secondarys with a stethescope with the engine over thirty eight hundred? and with the vacuum line to the pressure sensor off??? Much like what is described in the FSM???

Or just running the engine and listening without doing the above???

Usually if you just blockoff the vacuum line to the injector and then start the engine and slowly rev it to above 3800rpm and above, the engine will bog/act grumpy/sputter when you hit the 3500-3800 rpm mark. Because the secondarys came online and the atomization ain't favorable to say the least when just sitting in the driveway.

Another way is to back probe a secondary wire at the ECU with a meter. Meter on DCVOLTS. Then go for a ride. The meter will read approx12vdc until you get above 3800 rpm UNDER LOAD, then the 12vdc will drop to something like 7vdc give or take. Proving the secondaries are coming online.

I'm not real sure why you think they are not coming online.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

Do the 88-92s have the resistor packs?

Sandman FC

Im pretty sure that the secondaries arent coming on because it feels like i hit a wall at 3,800 rpm, the engine will try to rev past it if i floor it but starts backfiriing at about 4,200 rpm. I unplugged the secondaries, went up the road to get the same symptoms thats why im about 90% sure they arent coming on. im going to buy a noid light and try your back probing diagnosis tommorrow and i'll let you guys know whats up

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

No, only 86's and early 87's.

HAILERS

Try driving the car to about 5000 rpm in a gentle manner. In other words no foot to the floor stuff.

IF the car will get to that speed with no hiccup, it probably is something to do with the secondarys. The secondays won't open under the above scenario and it'll be only primaries working.

Yeah, do the light thing and write back.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Wow, I always thought they opened above 3800 regardless of throttle. That makes 2 things I learned today. Woohoo!!

matt566

sandman im havin the same problem now. if you find a solution please post what it was. hailers thanks for helpin gettin mine running it runs great except for the whole 3800 thing lol. my poor car has to put up with my ignorance

HAILERS

*****I unplugged the secondaries, went up the road to get the same symptoms thats why im about 90% sure they arent coming on. im going to buy a noid light ****************************************88

There's another angle you could try. Unplugg the secondaries and also pull the vacuum line off the pressure sensor and plug it with a bolt/whatever,.

Then go for a ride up the road, but use very light pedal and see if you can go to about 5000 rpm or at least well over the 3800 rpm mark. That should prove the primarys are not a problem.

By the way, does your pressure sensor have a number on it??? LIke N350 or something similar???????????? Write back what it is.

Sandman FC

my pressure sensor is an n350 , also every thing the wire harness to the main relay has n350 on it. I see the computer is an n351 though and it has 8207 on it.This leads me to believe the computer has be replaced. how can i tell if my ecu is bad?
From searching ive read that the computer has to be able to pulse a ground to the secondarys.

Sandman FC

i coulnt even get it to 5000 very light pedal, but i put it in neutral and will go past 5000, i dont get it? Also i took the computer out it sounds like something is rattling in there. I took it apart, theres no dirt or any thing in there. but when i shake it something rattles inside

HAILERS

N350 and N351 are both series five non turbo. At least that's what a search on this site claimed. One is for California. Either work in the S5 n/a.

I'd still put a meter on one of the secondary wires at the ECU and go for a drive to see if the voltage drops over 3800rpm. But like I said, if you plug the vacuum hose to the pressure sensor and rev it in the driveway the voltage should drop on the secondarys, just not as much as when you go driving.

I've no new ideas on this.

Sandman FC

MWWHAAAAHA..yes I found it, it was the TPS. I unplugged it and now can feel the full force of the rotary engine!! (this is my first rotary by the way) So how necessary is the tps because they are mega expensive. thanks for all the help