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Flushed the rad and still getting the buzzer aaarrrggg!

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Old 02-03-03, 08:26 AM
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Eat Rice Don't Drive it.

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Angry Flushed the rad and still getting the buzzer aaarrrggg!

Ok a few days ago I was talking on the forum about this buzzer that would come on every now and then when I would turn or on bumpy roads and things like that. Well Amur told me about the possibility about air bubles in the system and that I should drain, flush, and refill(properly). This was also making my car run at 3/4 of the temp guage. So I go to autozone and buy the Zerex flush bottle and a gal. of cooliant. I just did the procedure yesterday and nothing changed. I think it got worse. I used to have a 40/60 water/coolant ratio but it is now like 90/10 water/coolant. I did this becaus some one pointed out the fact that water is the best thing to get rid of heat and coolant has a lesser ability that water to remove heat from the engine.

First I remove the bleeder plug on the top of the radiator and some(not a lot) coolant came out and I took off the radiator cap as well then I raised the car and removed the black cover on the bottom so that I could reach the drain screw. I did and removed it I put the old coolant in an old container I had. Then I put the screw back in and started to put the stuff I bought(flush additive only) in the radiator and was careful not to let it spill from the bleeder screw's whole then I put water in to fill it up the rest of the way. I ran the car for 10 minutes after it was in the normal range. I let the car cool for a while and then drained the radiator and flushed it with water and continued but I did not realy see any white stuff like many people say. then I filled the radiator with about 85-90% water and added a little coolant. Today I drove to school and it did not heat up for the first 20minutes but after I left my g/f's house it started to heat up again and the buzzer still go's off more now than before.

One interesting thing though I noticed as I was leaving the gas station I heard the buzzer a little bit and glanced over to the idiot warning lights and the oil level light came on then off in about a half second. Does the oil system have a buzzer to indicate the level is low? I am pretty sure that I have enough oil in the car. I just changed it like 2 weeks ago but I am going to check that later.

I know it is not the fan because it stays at that temp no mater what speed the car is going. I do not know about the thermostat but I will proly be getting one from the dealer. Any help would be appreciated and thankyou for enduring my bad grammar and long thread.
Old 02-03-03, 08:51 AM
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Eat Rice Don't Drive it.

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is this thing on? AMUR where are you dude?
Old 02-03-03, 10:06 AM
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Low coolant or low oil are both fatal to roraries.
Yes there are sensors for both.

The outside if the engine is water cooled.
The inside (rotor) is oil cooled.
Old 02-03-03, 10:15 AM
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First you need to be running 50/50 for the coolant. running anything else and you won't have the protection against corrosion that you need on a rotary engine.

If you are convinced that you must have additional cooling use 50/50 mix and a little redline water wetter.

But running any mix lighter than 40% coolant is just asking for all the aluminum in your motor and the water pump to rot out.

yes the oil level buzzer coming on means you are two quarts of oil low and again in a potentitally engine distroying situation.

If you have fixed the oil level problem (which will also lead to overheating), and you are still getting the buzzer, check the sender, after you refill with the correct 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water.

Try also squezzing the top rad hose (it will get some air trapped in the bends) while you are refilling, and that will help pump some of the air back out.
Old 02-03-03, 10:59 AM
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Eat Rice Don't Drive it.

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**** I don't wand to have my car rust away daim. I will change that later. Where are the senders for the levels of the oil and water? I don't know anywhere to get redline where I live are there any online sites that sell it?
Old 02-03-03, 12:18 PM
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I know I had posted those ratios in another thread, but thought I made it clear that neither is optimal.

You need more corrosion inhibitors than a 10% mix of antifreeze will give you. The ethleneglycol (and other coolant substances) actually improves the effectiveness of the water as it raises the boiling point and prevents air bubbles on the surface of the water jacket. (remember air sucks at heat transfer compaired to coolant)

Coolant is also the only lubrication your water pump gets.... 50/50 is all around best mix. Going 60/40 in either direction can be ok depending on ambient temps.
Old 02-03-03, 12:28 PM
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I know the water sensor is on top of the radiator and has 2 wires. From my experience these wires come loose/break easily. I had to drive for like a week with the damn buzzer on until I got it fixed < got one from junkyard>, as for the other sender, look in the haynes. Its under the oil filter a few inches down.
Old 02-03-03, 12:39 PM
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You should check your fan clutch just to be sure. Also, when filling with coolant, do the same procedure you did(open bleeder screw, fill until topped), but also leave the radiator cap off and start the car(tighten bleeder screw first) while the car is idling top off the radiator, the system will start to presurize a couple minutes after the car has been idling with the cap off, and bubbles will start to rise, when you have it topped off and the bubbles come up, put the cap back on. should be ok after that
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