SlayerwithaFC3S

ok now im curious when converting to turbo from a non turbo im not using stock equipment should i change to the rotors on the turbo ones or would it be the same to shave off some some of the rotor to loose its compression? im gonna use 3mm apex seals large streetport and make a custom turbo manifold upgrade the fuel pump and injectors. custom fuel rail, im gonna upgrade the driveshaft but im not sure what else. perhaps someone can help some

White_FC

First of all, keep the high compression rotors, since you'll need a complete aftermarket ECU to control the whole shooting match anyway therefore you'll be able to tune it safly to run a lot of boost even on high comp. rotors.

wickedkin6s44

Here are some of the things you might want to know before doing a TII mod.

How to: Coverting N/A to TII
Hello folks seems a lot of you are interested in Turbo'ing your N/A's

parts list:
TII Motor complete
i.e manifolds,turbo,injectors,intercooler.....
Turbo wiring harness
TID
Turbo Hood or get a front mount
Turbo boost sensor (strut tower)
selenoid resistor
Turbo Airflow meter
Turbo ECU
Turbo acc cable

So Ill make a little write up and post some visual aids tomorrow
(digi cam batt dead)

NA prep::::::

lift up the passenger side carpet
and you will see a metal shield that houses the ECU
disconnect the ECU
pull out ecu
there's more yellow /orange on the side
disconnect those too
including a small white plug that is hooked up to a brown boost sensor looking thingy

open hood
pull out charcoal canister
and wiper reservoir
gently start pulling the wiring out
next disconnect all the chassis wiring
oil sensor
engine temp sensor
spark wires
take out rad
and fan
lift car
drain oil
disconnect oil lines
disconnect fuel lines
( you might want to yank out the fuel pump fuse
and spin motor to remove fuel pressure)
becarefull with the front ones you need
2 wrenches
then get back under car disconnect starter
motor bolts
then top motor bolts
ac lines
remove top manifold
powersteering lines
disconnect and remove na airflow meter
disconnect and remove boost sensor
disconnect whole exhaust leaving the exhaust manifold
but a jack under the tranny so it don't fall
double check everything is clear to yank motor out complete
Ok get engine hoist
hook up chain to rear and front cast housings
remove the motor
with alt,water pump,bottom manifold etc intact


2 things to consider

1: Do you want to keep your current drive train (tranny and diff)
2: you want to drop a whole TII engine and drive train (expensive
unless you find a donor car)

In my case I found a 88 Turbo II motor complete with ECU,boost sensor
wiring harness,intercooler turbo
for $600
spent another 600-700 rebuilding and porting the motor

I did not however have the Turbo tranny or starter or drive shaft
or rear end
so what to do?

Easy! My SE was a 87 so I swapped the Turbo flywheel and front counterweight and put the n/a counter parts.

Note) Don't install 89-91 counterweights on a 87-88 engine
eccentric shaft has different balance

Once my engine was put together (all pollution stuff removed makes installation a breeze)
I put the turbo manifold and turbo on the engine
put the bottom intake manifold on
installed the meter oil lines top breaks just install silicon hoses
plastic to oil injectors.
make sure you hook up a vacuum like to the fuel reg to a vacuum
source there one on the bottom manifold by the injectors
then hooked up the wiring (fuel injectors, water pump sensor
TPS etc

once you got most of the wiring pugs hooked up
It's time to install the engine into the bay

This the tricky part especially when doing it alone

get the engine hoist and chain to the rear and front cast housings

put a jack underneath the tranny and lift the tranny all the way
move engine over rad support keeping it centered
get it close to tranny.
Once lined up slowly let the engine down till you see the trannys
shaft go into the clutch. Now lower the tranny a bit and try wiggling the engine to get the shaft to seat inside the pilot bearing.( you might have to lower or rise tranny a few times while pushing the engine towards the tranny for it to seat properly)
The bitch here is getting the motor mounts to line up
the passenger side mount is the easy one
install the rubber mount to the body and the cover
the engine mount will fall on this
The driver side has the bolt the needs to go thru the chassis
good luck here took me a good hour to get it in
Once you see that the top rear housing of the motor is pretty
flush to the tranny put a bolt on the top by the passenger side to keep the motor from disconnecting from tranny
when your lowering the tranny all the way

OK your almost there
finish bolting the motor up, hook up the main oil lines
install starter
install the mazdatrix down pipe(recommended $115

now we need to pass the wiring warness ecu plugs thru the firewall
pass the plugs one at a time
then go inside the car and pull the plugs till it reaches the ecu area
There's one white plug that hooks up to a brown boost sensor looking one.
The yellow plugs are easy, you cant mix them up cause there different sizes ,only the correct ones can plug into ecu

go ahead and install the rad+fan and hoses
hook up the temp sensor
oil temp
rad sensors
solenoid resister-big white plug in front of passenger side strut tower.

Now for the top manifold
place on top of bottom manifold
making sure it has a new or good condition gasket
bolt it up
hook up throttle position sensor
manifold pressure sensor
alternator wires
install TID and airflow meter
bov
and vacuum hoses to thos parts
like the boost sensor
3 way tee
maybe a 4 tee for a boost gauge
install intercooler
tighten all clamps real good
hook up fuel lines
new spark plugs

You need to replace the NA accelerator cable with a Turbo one
much longer wraps around motor


add water and coolant
install batt
DO NOT put the spark wires yet
get in car
crank the motor
to let oil lub the motor and
the turbo (15 secs or so)

Now hook up the spark plug wires
get back in car
*prey* LoL
wait a few secs for fuel to build pressure
turn the key
after a few motor spins
waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa prrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

she Lives! she Lives!!
cough* cough* Oh my the smoke

after a few min outside the smoke will go away

next get a custom 3 inch exhaust
go to track
run 13's

*I might of forgot some stuff
but that's the jist of it

Hope this helps...

SlayerwithaFC3S

i dont want a T2 i want it fully custom no t2 parts at all

White_FC

Good SlayerwithaFC3S, I'm a big fan of high comp. turbo engines.
I supose i have to be considering i'm doing this myself

shill941

Started a little project after my 88 convertible broke all 3 apex seals in rotor 1.

I just set the j-spec motor in without transmission attached and the motor appears to be in at slight angle. Does the tranny have to be attached to line the motor up? Or is this normal?

Sorry for the question, but this is my first time working with the rotory. It is unique and interesting motor. Thanks

DJChunter

the motor is set on a angle for a reason.. the car is suspose to be right hand drive.. its just a poor conversion mazda did.. the motor is on a slight angle to clear the steering box ect. on the right hand drive cars..
Dave

RotorJoe

do three mill apex seals help in these applications??

Rotary Racer

Then you are going to need:
- After market Turbo exhaust manifold
- After market Turbo
- After market Intercooler w/ piping
- It would be easier to use the TII intake manifold but if you don't want "any" TII parts the intercooler piping will need to be modified for the N/A manifold
- After market waste gate (if the turbo does not come w/ an internal one)
- After market blow off valve
- After market fuel pump
- After market stand alone fuel/ignition management system
- After market fuel injectors
- After market down pipe and cats or pre-silencer
- After market gages
- Prob. left a couple of things out

And if you are running all this power you are going to need a stronger tranny. If you don't use a TII one then that is going to get pricey. It would be cheaper to just do the TII swap IMO. Have fun