Ok, the T2 is flooding really easy. I can get the car to start when it is about 55*F or warmer, but lower than that and it just floods. I can get it to pop and try to start by unplugging the fuel pump, but that is it. (sometimes it does this when warm, but the unplugging trick works to start it again).

The car will run, and very well. How do I get the damn thing to stop flooding?

Thanks for any help.

RR87

 

gonna say..your fuel injectors need to be cleaned..(either send them to some place that does them or replace them)..but That is just One opinion..I'm sure more people will post..Good luck in any case..

 

Is there any way I can clean the injectors myself?

 

Disable pin 3B on the ECU and it won't flood anymore once you get the car started in the morning. Search for HAILERS and FLOODING on this forum and you'll see a thread to two that explains WHY if won't flood anymore and WHY you disable pin 3B. No fuel cut switches needed once you do this.

 

I found the info you refered to Hailers, and in it you said that ECU pin mod was useful for hot start flooding. My car is having trouble starting cold. I had it running well the other day when it was about 60*. After I got the motor warmed it started alright. Today when I tried to start it (42*) all it would do is flood.

 

Might want to do a compression check, if you happen to have a gauge for it handy. How well the car runs could be decieving, I know this from personal experience, but my situation was hot-starts. Your's seems different, but it might not hurt to check.

 

Does that 3B pin disabling really work?
I didn't read about it yet......

What if he has a leaky injector.
There's fuel and pressure still left in the lines and once
the car is shut off it stays there and returns fuel to the tank.
But leaky injectors will leak instead of returning the fuel, which in turns, floods the engine.

I think if you have leaky injectors, a temp fix would be to cut the fuel to shut the car off...

 

If the car is a pain to start when cold but not hot,,,,,,,,,,then make sure the water temperature switch is connected. It's located behind the water pump housing. A green/white and a black wire go to it. At the ECU it's input is on pin 2I. The color is green/white.

IF you back probe that wire with the connector on the ECU, and the key is ON, and the engine is cold.........the voltage reading will be 2-3vdc all depending on how cold the engine is. When you warm the engine up to full temperature, the reading will then be approx 0.5vdc, give or take a touch.

IF the temp sensor is disconnected, the ECU will default to 176* temperature which in turn means that the *START MAP* will inject to little fuel for the engine to start right up.

On the other hand it could be a half dozen other things related to timing, plugs,tps, blah, blah, blah.

No. I'm not a big believer in leaking fuel injectors curing all. Have not been for some time.

 

Cool, I will check the temp switch tommorrow. If that doesn't help, I will try a tune up. The car sat for at least 6 months, so I have no idea when it last had anything replaced.