So as I was putting the final bolt in on my "new" omp/mop, one of the oil lines snapped.

Now I'm trying to figure out my options and see if anyone has done any repair on the original line itself as it sits in the car.

1. block it off, chip ecu, and premix (priciest option)
2. fix the original line somehow (preferable option)
3. replace lines with upgraded or rebuilt ones (most annoying option)

#2 is really want I want to go with but I wanted to see if it's even possible or what you guys have done or tried.

Here's a fun pic:



By the way, I am not a great mechanic, but swapping this OMP out was a huge job that took me two days. I couldn't find any guide on the forum on the proper way to do it, but I managed it with the engine in the car, with everything intact (did not even move so much as a radiator hose). Was there some kind of tricky procedure that I overlooked?

 

i have tried heating up the older lines and reinserting them, doesn't work too well.

best option is to just replace them. luckily for you i just came out with some new replacements!
https://www.rx7club.com/vendor-classifieds-276/fc-fd-stainless-dual-sheath-oil-metering-pump-lines-977750/

 

wow those are nice. would be nice to freely bang my hands around and not worry about these crack pipes called stock OMP oil lines.

by not working too well, what do you mean exactly? it leaks or ends up popping out?

and what's the procedure to replace the lines? I had briefly read that it involves pulling off the intake manifold

and this probably goes without saying, but it is not possible to simply disconnect/plug two of the lines?

out of curiosity, what does the rtek ecu chip do other than disable the OMP check? I have an s5 NA but the only info I can see on their website is that it does just that...not increase power or lean the car out at all.

 

You can also make new ones: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/rebuilding-omp-oil-injection-lines-348068/
I made new lines for my car and they are holding up good. It cost me 30 dollars for everything.

 

you can disconnect and plug them with solid bolts, be sure to seal up the broken ends of the lines or they will pull dirt into the motor. of course you will need to compensate with premixing the fuel.

for the comment i tried heating up a broken line when i had no replacements on hand at a offsite repair, the line went in but heating up the line distorts it and can either plug the hole or not seal properly and leak afterwards. i find it's near impossible to get the 20 year old plastic just flexible enough to go back on without much trouble, it just wants to fight you.

yea, if you want to replace them you have to pull the UIM off to get access.

 

I can go either way with premixing, I just don't want the car to drop into limp mode anymore. So you're saying it's entirely ok to just leave the OMP connected and plugged in but with only two oil lines plugged into it, and then premix to compensate? Which other bolt should I plug other than the one that's broken (the one that's on the bottom right out of the four)?

Do the four lines serve different functions? Would this set up basically be using the OMP at half capacity, and premixing for the other half? Does that mean you use half as much 2 cycle oil to premix?

 

IMO i would go all or nothing. block off the whole metering system and premix or fix it. you can however block half of it off but that depends on which line was broken. eliminate either the left or right bank, that will still keep oil flowing to both rotors through either the housings(right bank) or lower intake(left bank). if you only block half of the system i would premix in between @ 3/4oz per gallon of fuel, if you eliminate all the lines run 1 oz per gallon.

blocking off the lines won't affect the OMP or trigger any faults that wouldn't already pop up if there was an issue.

 

Is there a reason you can't block just one line as opposed to the two on the right side of the OMP?

 

my reasoning is balance. there is 2 ports per rotor, if you disconnect 1 line then you have 2 oil injectors functioning on 1 rotor and the other is only getting half it's lubrication. even if you premix you may be sufficing the one rotor and either overdoing it for the other or not giving it enough. i'm sure it's marginal but long term if you don't get enough to both rotors you could prematurely wear one rotor.

those are just the options i would focus on.

 

what would I do without you on this forum?

 

As Karack said trying to fix the old brittle line is nearly impossible and you still have a brittle line that will break again. I made a set as texas tubo suggests and they have been working great. Removing the UIM and doing it right isn't too bad. It's probably good to check under there anyway.

 

If you haven't looked at it yet, the lines that Karack made are really nice and that's a great price.

 

I did this about 4 years ago. No issues yet.

 

I just use vacume Line to bring tham back together . i think all mine snapped

 

oh god...

you know that is the whole reason i started making those braided lines, right?

my customer came in and asked me to replace his OMP lines with something nice and durable. when i went to take the old lines out it was like handling jello, they were all super mushy, ballooned up, oil saturated and leaking. not many types of rubber are actually meant to handle oil/petrol. he bought the car like that where the previous owner thought the same thing, that rubber vacuum line would surely work just fine. some will, but usually it is the expensive stuff that most parts stores don't carry which is a viton based rubber, most carry basic buna rubber which isn't good at oil resistance.

how do you know what type of rubber the line is? usually you won't and the kids working the counter won't know either. ordering specialty vacuum hose online seems like a waste of time for a patch job.

 

I'm really liking those OMP lines you came up with Karack... Nice work.

Will these be available for quite a while?

 

replace your omp lines with the stainless braided, you will NEVER look back, and you will be thanking karak hand over fist. trust me
i have been waiting for someone to make these for YEARS for a reason.........

Lloyd

 

No you have a good point. Then maybe ill look for viton vac lines. or spend extra cash and do it right. Im just saying its an Option. Im not saying its the best option. I Can spot and detect with site and texture viton VS normal rubber parts

 

depends if i can source more fittings. i've already run through about half of what i had which was enough to do about 20 sets. i can always have the customer snip off the old banjo fittings and use them as the cores so yes, they should be pretty much unlimited that way. i spend a good 30 minutes or so cleaning each set.

i honestly didn't think they would be this popular, i sell a set about every other day so far.

 

+1

I rebuilt mine, they are dirt cheap to make and very easy to do. No offense meant, but stainless ones are complete overkill....unless you are doing them to dress up your engine bay. The OMP carry very minimal pressure and the teflon hoses will last longer than most of us will own our rotaries.

But again, if you are putting the final touches on a dressed up engine bay then stainless would be a very nice touch.

 

I'll second that one. I took out the Mazda Reman'd engine out of my vert for the new engine and found that someone had made a patch of vacuum hose for one of the rear OMP injectors. It was about an inch long and completely saturated with oil, ballooned out and I wonder how much oil actually made it through the injector.

 

well yea, they are a little overkill but hopefully outlast any OEM replacements, look better in the meantime, are cheaper and an alternative for those who would rather spend the extra $60 to not have to deal with it.

 

fixed

seriously though, this is exactly why i ordered a set from him. supposing i ever need to take this **** apart again, at least i know for a fact, that if i bend the omp lines out of the way, they wont snap and i wont be out ANOTHER 50$

Lloyd

 

yep, it's rather annoying treating the lines with kid gloves everytime you have to work under the UIM. the one i used as an example that we tried to patch, the owner of the car dropped a transmission bolt on the line and it snapped... that is how fragile most of the original lines are now.

i'm not a big fan of the OMP system but i find that a fair amount of people simply don't want to deal with premixing, and having peace of mind that the lines won't break from other reasons aside from looking at them funny is a good enough reason to be sure the engine is getting enough oil.

not really trying to push anyone to replace them, they usually are fine until you have to monkey with them while working on the engine if they're in one piece still.