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Best way to remove exhaust diffusers

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Old 02-05-05, 09:22 PM
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Best way to remove exhaust diffusers

well ive worked for like 2 hrs and only got one half way done... any tips are nice


Thanx


Dustin
Old 02-05-05, 09:43 PM
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A good drill bit. Eats right through the pin that holds it in on both sides. A cheap bit will make a mess out of the aluminum that surrounds it. JBweld to fill the hole the pin/drilling leaves.

(Edit for signature violation)

Last edited by Aaron Cake; 02-06-05 at 10:37 AM.
Old 02-05-05, 09:44 PM
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no im aasking the best way top grind it off
Old 02-05-05, 09:45 PM
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im kinda clueless what you are talking about t2 devel
Old 02-05-05, 11:13 PM
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he thinks you mean remove them from the housing not remove the guts from them.

lucky i happen to be doing this right now!

best way i found was to take a flat tip screwdriver and pry on each side louver and pry them inward, put the screwdriver in the middle of the two then pry them outward to where they originally were positioned again, this should begin them cracking from their welds. now take some needle nose vice grips or regular needle nose pliers and try rocking them side to side to weaken their hold onto the main body of the port lining, eventually they will break off leaving only the snout in place.

now with only the snout in place you will need a slightly worn cut off disc and a dremel, lead the top edge of the disc in through the top and then turn the dremel on being careful not to scuff the surface inside the housing. cut down and towards the inside of the rotor housing about half way up the snout of the diffuser cutting paralell to it to cut it off, once it is about 2/3 through your disc will likely be done and worn out, now place a flat tip screwdriver under the snout from inside the rotor housing being careful again not to scuff the surface and pry upward on it to bend the snout and begin it cracking at the cut line, place a prybar inside the exhaust port now and pry it back down and continue doing this until it breaks off.

last, clean up the diffuser remains with any of your choice of augering bits and dremel or diegrinder.

enjoy!

first one i tried was a bitch!


edit: the 'safest' way to do this would be to remove them from the housings though, which isn't all that easy to do and have them go back in and fit snug.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 02-05-05 at 11:20 PM.
Old 02-06-05, 12:20 AM
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here is what it should look like after you cut it out before the finishing touches, you don't even need to go this far unless you plan on porting it(this is a semi finished street port for a T2).

keep in mind if you cut these out of an n/a it will be super MEGA loud!

Old 02-06-05, 12:34 AM
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http://www.rotaryblvd.org/index.php?showtopic=1272
Old 02-06-05, 08:35 AM
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boy i wish the pics worked in that link
Old 02-06-05, 09:05 AM
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What is the reason for removing the diffusers? Do they reduce power?
What are the side effects of removing them besides the noise?
Old 02-06-05, 09:52 AM
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They don't work? Well crud, let me FTP them elsewhere:

http://bdc.genxracing.com/RollPinRemoval

Give that a try.

B
Old 02-06-05, 10:39 AM
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Easiest way I have found to grind them out is to use a cheap, rough grinding stone on a die grinder. Grind the corner where the "wings" attach, and break off the wings with pliers. Now grind flat. Only takes about 10 minutes to do two housings.

Don't waste time with a Dremel. You'll be there for weeks. Find the cheapest, roughest grinding stones you can.
Old 02-06-05, 02:27 PM
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i bought some carbite bits and there coming out pretty good now
Old 02-06-05, 02:53 PM
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I used ebay carbide bits and an electrical dye grinder. I wore down the corners to really thin then grabbed the "wings" of the diffuses and snapped them off with pliers. After that I just kept grinding against what was remaining until it was flat, took about 30-45 min. on the first housing and about 20 min on the second with the bits, and I used an electrical dye grinder.

After I did the first one I learned that after the "wings" were off I had best luck if I would concentrate on one small spot at a time by putting lots of pressure on that spot. As the spot gets more pressure it heats up and starts to glow red, though, and as it does this back off for a sec, then put more pressure on, back off, put more pressure on, etc and it seemed to really work well.
Old 02-06-05, 02:59 PM
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Carbide burrs I used


After I snapped the "wings" off


After I got it down most the way, but before I cleaned it up and ported the exhaust


And after the exhaust was ported




Just thought I'd share

I must say this made it sound pretty damn gnarly on an N/A
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