i ported the engine and it seem sto pull all the way to 8500 and then i hit fuel cut, how can i get rid of this without goign haltech or some other expensive aftermarket system

 

mods can u move this to the second gen forum

 

I doubt the motor is making any significant more torque past that RPM ranges.&nbsp Why risk hurting the motor?



-Ted

 

rotary engines should be reved past that but some sites have that fuel cut removal. also. u can get a chipped ecu that will remove that and give u no rev limit, but like ted said, its a huge risk that your taking. there has to be a reason why the rev limit only reaches 8600.

i purchased a shipped ECU and i am scared to put it in. one slip on gear will definately have me on foot.

 

shouldnt. the fuel cut removal wires usually got for less than 40 bux.

 

i dotn think its that easy, the flywheel doesnt come off that easy. does everyoen torque them properly to ~380 lbs liek the manual says? and i woudl get a scatter shield anyway

 

Is this some kinda race car?&nbsp If not, you need to beef up the bearings and raise the oil pressure to get the engine to run reliably up in that kinda RPM ranges.


-Ted

 

i only wanna rev to 9k thast all, i am nto planning to go in to crazy high rpm, and i think 9k is nto that big of a deal anyway. its nto a race car, hi sis my daily drive that will be taken to road races when weatehr permitts.

 

The engine has vibration issues at 8,500RPM.&nbsp No reason to rev past that, unless you're asking for trouble.&nbsp It's a big risk (and a waste of money) you're taking just to brag you can rev that high...

-Ted

 

Strange, I would have thought that when you took a 91 na, to 8,600, wouldent it hit rev limiter and not fuel cut.............am I right?

 

I think thats what hes talking about. I didnt think N/As had fuel cut...

 

Duh? - The rev limiters action is to cut fuel..

 

i am more then sure that i have seen my car tach passed the 9k and after glancing at it during my burnout i imideatly backed off, i noticed the engien started to get quiter BUT i did not notice any vibrations if anythign it felt smoother. unless u are those vibrations can no tbe felt. i would not want to rev high for braging right, it seems that withet h port i have power doesnt fall off all the way to 8500 but my BUTT dyno coudl be wrong, i am goign on the dyno this sat to fidn out. i fmy power band is higher then that i woudl need to rev higher to take advantage of the port.


oh an btw goign passed 9k was weird since after i rebuild the engine i hit the fuel cut twice already at 8600. (atlest what the tach says)

 

Be careful how you read my reply - I said "torque", not "power".&nbsp Sure, it still makes power, but your torque would've dropped off a lot by then.&nbsp There is no way a stock ported (or even street port) engine is going to make serious power up that high.&nbsp The engine ports are just too restrictive to be making significant gains at that high an RPM.


-Ted

 

Not the way I understand it. Fuel cut was a function of the turbo ECU to cut the fuel once you hit a certain boost level. Rev limit is a function of the ECU that just limits the rpm the engine can rev. You can bounce of rev limiter and do no damage (not advisable though). But if you hit fuel cut you can detonate and cause severe damage. Please correct me if Im wrong..

 

Thats true but people get it so misconstrued that they just say both. NAs have a rev limit and there is no way (reason) to take it off plain and simple. -Gabe

 

Both the rev limiter and boost "limiter" work by fuel cut.

Henrik
87TII

 

I hope you kill yourself when you shatter your flywheel at 9000 rpm for bieng such a dumbass.

 

shouldn't the rotors be clearanced also if the engine is being revved up THAT high to prevent the rotors hitting the housings? i read that from Racing Beat...

 

Yea....why ask it again if you read it at racing beat? so lets realize what weve learned today...Unless your a road racer there is no reason to rev that high other than having it as some personal dick trophy but your also asking for trouble if you dont have the mods to the motor/rotors and a scatter sheild for the clutch when it departs.

 

i am simply asking! why are u guys gettign mad, i did say i plan to road race teh car, that is why i would LIKE to have a higher redline, but if i cant do with what i have then i eitehr have to mod it or leave it as it is and deal with it. i know that revving past 9k is dangerous, and if i do get rid of the rev limmiter then i WILL get a scatted shield.

88 SE whats your ptoblem? u cant explain yourself without soudning like a dick?

 

...at least TRY and spell things correctly...

 

funnie, i was sure that the na's used ignition cut for the rev limiter


-Shawn

 

Well if you are planning on road racing, you are going to want a haltech anyways.

Or do you mean Street racing?

 

Racing Beat and Mazdatrix recommend a scattershield on anything revving past 10000. However, its better to be safe than lose bodyparts if something bad should happen. Turbostreetfighter revs his engine up to over 9000 all the time. It is a race car though. He still has stock seals and bearings too. granted the 3rd gen bearings are better than the 2nd gens. You aren't going to be making any more usable power up that high if you are running the stock intake manifold. The ports can flow enough air but the intake runners are physically too long to give you a useful power range this high, especially with a stock computer as well. If you want to take an engine this high then you should design one solely around this purpose such as new exhaust design, intake design, headers, porting, bearings, clearancing, oil pressure, etc... Since the production rotary has no center bearing on the eccentric shaft, it is prone to slight flex at very high rpm's. This flex gets very dangerous as rotors start wanting to touch housings and other nasty things. This is the reason for greater clearancing. It leaves a little more room to flex. Guru Racing makes a 2 piece eccentric shaft that allows for a center bearing. They shift their engines at 9500 rpm but the rest is also designed for it. If your motor is still relatively stock (factory components and clearancing not porting) just try to optimise power within the range it is in now. You'll be happiest and safest this way.