raceneked

Items needed:

Port sleeves, Pineapples inserts, Loctite "RED", an awl(or something to scratch with), a piece of wet/dry 400 grit paper, a 1/8" punch, a hammer, a couple of clean rags, carburetor cleaner, a cleaning brush, a vise.

First you will clean the inserts and sleeves; for the sleeves you want to use the cleaning brush to make sure that all deposits ate scrubbed clean. Use the carburetor cleaner as your solvent, it works VERY well.

Set the vise up with about 3/4" - 1" gap in the jaws, you need somewhere for the pin to go.
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=01theviceisset.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_01theviceisset.jpg"></a>
Next, you'll use one of the rags to protect the sleeve from the edges of the vise jaws.
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=02protectionforthesleeve.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_02protectionforthesleeve.jpg"></a>
This is the insert by itself; it is machined to .001" tolerance
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=03theinsert.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_03theinsert.jpg"></a>
This is the sleeve and the insert, ready for modification
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=04insertandsleeve.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_04insertandsleeve.jpg"></a>
Here you see the sleeve supported by the vise, cushioned by the rag, with a gap for the pin to fall into.
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=05readyforpinextraction.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_05readyforpinextraction.jpg"></a>
You wont have to hit the pin hard at all, just a couple of gentle taps should do it.
NOTE: you will drive the pin out with the port opening side of the sleeve up. Also note the orientation of the pin.
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=06tappingoutpin.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_06tappingoutpin.jpg"></a>
The pin comming out through the bottom of sleeve.
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=07pinloose.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_07pinloose.jpg"></a>
Score/scratch up the areas that will have most contact with the insert, lightly sand
to debur, spray with carb. cleaner, making sure that all surfaces are clean.
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=08scoredsurfaces.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_08scoredsurfaces.jpg"></a>
Remember, the inserts are made to exacting specs.(+/- .001"), so if they dont slide in chances are theres a
bur or debris that you missed. It doesn't hurt to lightly sand the inside surfaces to loosen any residue that
you may have missed the first time.
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=09insertready.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_09insertready.jpg"></a>

raceneked

This is where, and how much Loctite I applied to the inside of my sleeves where the inserts will come to rest.
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=10loctited.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_10loctited.jpg"></a>
The inserts pushed all the way down into the end of the sleeve.
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=11insertinplace.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_11insertinplace.jpg"></a>
The inserts fit quite nicely in the sleeves.
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=12nicefit.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_12nicefit.jpg"></a>
When replacing the pin, remember the orientation that I told you to remember; this is where it comes in handy. The SMALL end of the pin goes in first, then the fat lip is pushed back into the sleeve, then punched down to just below the surface.
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=13replacingpin.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_13replacingpin.jpg"></a>
Using the same punch that you used to tap out the pin now tap it in. Both ends of the pin will
be BELOW the surface of the sleeve
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=14tappingpinin.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_14tappingpinin.jpg"></a>
The pin has been properly seated when you feel a small indention over the pin on both sides of the pin.
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=15pinin.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_15pinin.jpg"></a>
Using the punch, a cold chisel, or large screw driver, peen the edges of the sleeve opening in,
to secure the insert mechanically.
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=16peenlip.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_16peenlip.jpg"></a>
This is a close up so you can actually see the SLIGHTLY peened in edges, securely locating the insert.
<a href="http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/?action=view&current=17upclose.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/raceneked/inserts/th_17upclose.jpg"></a>

Taaa Daaaa! you're done.
Approximate time to complete BOTH sleeves: 20 mins...

You can see a pro do it in a video http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.c...6_Port_Inserts

VortecBowtie

Good write up, just wish my motor ran well enough at the moment after my rebuild to see if they made a diff

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Red Loctite is not acceptable for this. There have been documented cases of these inserts falling into engines due to improper installation.

You need to use green Loctite or the very evil and hard to find gray Loctite.

jake1191

iTrader: (1)

what does this actually do for you?

VortecBowtie

smooths the air flow and ramps it into the combustion chamber.

I used red loctite, but i pinned the sht out of the sleeves so they aint goin anywhere.

jake1191

iTrader: (1)

does it give a significant power gain or not if it does i might do it

YaNi

iTrader: (2)

The inserts net a few hp. They replicate the Renesis sleeves.

blackedoutFC3S

iTrader: (7)

They say numbers vary around 8 HP at Pineapple racing, but they're only 50 bucks. So if your engine is already apart, or you want the power; why not?

jake1191

iTrader: (1)

yea i might do them eventually. im getting towards the end of mods that dont require engine tear down at all. So i might start doing them. Some smog/emissions removal and things like that

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

There are huge debates about these all over the forums because noone has ever done back to back dyno tests. In theory these should make more power, but I have sereched and never found dyno results proving power. I have never seen flow bench results showing an increase in flow either. There are horror stories about these failing too. I just ran into two within the last week in the NA performance section. Lock tite green or grey is the only way to go. Or some JB weld.

Icemark

Yep, Loctite Red (or 271) breaks down when exposed to both gasoline and motor oil. With Gasoline it looses about 5% strength every 1000 hours of exposure and with motor oil it looses about 15% of initial strength in as little as 100 hours of exposure. Both of which are in our intake charges at the point of the aux ports.

And then it looses about 40% of strength when exposed to over 200F (which will easily be seen in heat soak applications).

And depending on perfect joint (it is designed for threaded applications), even a prefect threaded joint with #5 bolts it only has about a 75psi sheer rating anyway.

I have been using Loctite Speedbonder H4500 since it is designed to bond aluminum and steel and has hardly any degradation from gas or motor oil and has a 780psi shear strength at 250F. This is almost exactly the same as Loctite grey, except for it is two part and has only 20% elongation compared to 30% for gray and H4500 can be cleaned up with Denatured alcohol for the first hour. The only thing that does break H4500 down easily over time is saltwater (which shouldn't be in your intake system anyway- and even when exposed for 1000+ hours only drops the sheer strength to 250psi (three times the sheer strength of 271 when new).

S4GXL

anyone know how much benefit/risk this has over simply taking the sleeves out? im at that point in my build and im thinking of just taking the sleeves out so i dont have to deal with loctite/installation hassles/longevity issues.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Well, first of all, taking the sleeves out gives you no benefit at all over properly working sleeves. It radically reduces low end torque and doesn't help you up top. In fact, totally removed sleeves may even be a hindrance up top due to the fact that airflow now has to slam into a wall, take a 180 and then climb over a little lip to get into the engine.

With the proper Loctite as mentioned earlier in this thread, the sleeves are totally safe.

S4GXL

one more thing that would help, what loctite # is the green or grey stuff. like 271 is red or w/e. there are many different kinds of green loctite that ive found.

Hecubus84

iTrader: (1)

Personally, I would use this stuff here:

Permatex® High Temperature Sleeve Retainer

"OEM specified. High temperature (up to 400ºF / 204ºC) anaerobic adhesive that secures slip and press fit assemblies. Adds up to 3,000 PSI holding power. Restores fit to worn or out-of-tolerance assemblies. Prevents surface corrosion.

Suggested Applications: Cylinder sleeves, valve guides, valve seats, bearings and bushings, woodruff keys, liner assemblies"

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

http://yarchive.net/car/loctite.html

609 is 'wicking' or low viscosity. You can torque a nut onto a bolt, then apply the 609. It will wick into the threads locking the nut. This is for the lowest gap/tightest fitting parts, gaps up to 0.005".

680 is medium viscosity. Fills "larger" gaps max of 0.015". This is probably what you need for the sleeves.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Uses:

609: spindle bearings, lip seals, bearing races

620: engine cylinder liners, heat exchanger tubes

635: gears, pulleys, fans, collars, rotors, sprockets, cams and flywheels
to shafts.

640: bushings and sleeves, rotors to shafts

642: bushings in manual transmissions

660: worn shafts, worn housings, worn end bells, bearing spinouts,
wallowed keyways, wallowed splines

675: oil impregnated bushings, drill bushings

680: gears, wheels, pulleys, cams, collars, flywheels, sprockets, and rotors
to shafts, replacement bearings in worn housings or on worn shafts.
[/INDENT]

NGKTECH

Pineapple racing's instructions show them using a Loctite 620 to secure them

http://www.pineappleracing.com/instr...ctions2c-s.pdf

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

I installed these for a friend. I simply drilled and taped them and counter sank a screw, then green loctited them. They aren't going anywere ever.

~Mike...............

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

hey guys quick question...
i got an s5
with the 6pi actuators attached to the sleeves (or valves as they are called in the fsm), should i be able to pull the actuator rod up with my hands? i can pull on the vdi actuator rod with no problem. i cant pull up on the 6pi actuator rod. this is making me think that the sleeves are stuck.

also one of my 6pi actuator rods moves more smoothly than the other. do i need new actuators?

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

A few years ago I flow tested a pair on my old and now defunct flowbench (may it RIP). I pulled air through the entire manifold which was bolted to an end housing. I attached the housing to a box I made that attached to the bench. I blocked off the other intake runners so air was only flowing through the outer runner in the manifold and through the intake ports on that housing only. I flowed it as a system rather than an individual part as you should. Keep in mind I also had the actuators installed. At 28" H2O I got a whopping 1 cfm static flow increase.

Why don't they do much? It's a matter of flow turbulence in the upper runner. The actuator rods which run right through the runners cause an awful lot of turbulence which is terrible for flow. Without the rods in the way the flow does increase. Unfortunately I don't remember what numbers I got without them. I only remember that the radiuses gave 1 cfm with the rods in the way which may as well be 0.

Sadly I no longer have a flowbench so I can no longer do any testing. I've got way too many other things to spend money on before I build another.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

anybody? please!

raceneked

Hooo okay...

an update.

...as you all know, I installed the inserts at the same time I installed a rebuilt motor.
So; for me its hard to say if there is actual increase, noticeable increase.

All things considered, I'd say pineapple is about right: 5-7 h.p., maybe.

Would like for my aux ports to open a tad bit earlier, and quicker.
As it is they start opening about 5000, and are fully open about 5500, or at least thats how it 'feels'.
I'd like them to open about 3700, and be OPEN at 4000...

dunno if the inserts are worth the cost of gaskets, etc.; but if you are doing anything where you have to open it up anyway; They're worth thinking about...
5 ponies is 5 ponies