1990 GXL NA to Bridgeported 13BT swap
A visual check (i.e. looking through the exhaust port) may show you if a seal went for a trip and caused internal damage or show leakage residue of the coolant seals on the outside or other major damage.
In other words, the only way to be sure if your motor is decent is to compression test.
In other words, the only way to be sure if your motor is decent is to compression test.
Got my finger's crossed, I dont want to be stuck with a junk J-Spec motor.
Ok, mounting the MAF between the turbo and FMIC didn't work so well. Got more piping and couplers and put it before the turbo. The car runs now!
Remaining issues:
* WP/alternator belt slipping - might pull fat pulleys off of bridgeport engine
* bouncing idle - probably bad TPS, still trying to get a replacement
* needs alignment - full coilover setup makes height and front camber very adjustable, adjustable swaybar links, rear-camber adjuster from racing beat... I need to find a local shop with corner scales.
* wideband o2 sensor is acting strange, digital gauge switches between AFR ratios of 2 and 20, depending on if I'm on the throttle or not. best case: recalibrate and fixed, worst case: new sensor.. expensive
Remaining issues:
* WP/alternator belt slipping - might pull fat pulleys off of bridgeport engine
* bouncing idle - probably bad TPS, still trying to get a replacement
* needs alignment - full coilover setup makes height and front camber very adjustable, adjustable swaybar links, rear-camber adjuster from racing beat... I need to find a local shop with corner scales.
* wideband o2 sensor is acting strange, digital gauge switches between AFR ratios of 2 and 20, depending on if I'm on the throttle or not. best case: recalibrate and fixed, worst case: new sensor.. expensive
OH MY GOSH! so so nice. sorry about the misc. problems though, but congrats on the build.
i would like to do this so bad with my 89 gtu rolling chassis and d*mn is this motivating. thanks for all the pics too.
i would like to do this so bad with my 89 gtu rolling chassis and d*mn is this motivating. thanks for all the pics too.
Ok, mounting the MAF between the turbo and FMIC didn't work so well. Got more piping and couplers and put it before the turbo. The car runs now!
Remaining issues:
* WP/alternator belt slipping - might pull fat pulleys off of bridgeport engine
* bouncing idle - probably bad TPS, still trying to get a replacement
* needs alignment - full coilover setup makes height and front camber very adjustable, adjustable swaybar links, rear-camber adjuster from racing beat... I need to find a local shop with corner scales.
* wideband o2 sensor is acting strange, digital gauge switches between AFR ratios of 2 and 20, depending on if I'm on the throttle or not. best case: recalibrate and fixed, worst case: new sensor.. expensive
Remaining issues:
* WP/alternator belt slipping - might pull fat pulleys off of bridgeport engine
* bouncing idle - probably bad TPS, still trying to get a replacement
* needs alignment - full coilover setup makes height and front camber very adjustable, adjustable swaybar links, rear-camber adjuster from racing beat... I need to find a local shop with corner scales.
* wideband o2 sensor is acting strange, digital gauge switches between AFR ratios of 2 and 20, depending on if I'm on the throttle or not. best case: recalibrate and fixed, worst case: new sensor.. expensive
yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehaw.
Big pulleys don't fit an S5 water pump. Roasted my stock belt, definitely need a dual belt alternator pulley.
New spark plugs fixed my starting problems. Car runs strong now. It blew the intercooler piping off of the throttle body today.. VRROOooommm POP *stall* ...
Got a TPS that measures fine. Still have a bouncing idle. Need to fix an oil leak on the turbo feed line, it's leaking from the adapter that screws into the engine block.
New spark plugs fixed my starting problems. Car runs strong now. It blew the intercooler piping off of the throttle body today.. VRROOooommm POP *stall* ...
Got a TPS that measures fine. Still have a bouncing idle. Need to fix an oil leak on the turbo feed line, it's leaking from the adapter that screws into the engine block.
Big pulleys don't fit an S5 water pump. Roasted my stock belt, definitely need a dual belt alternator pulley.
New spark plugs fixed my starting problems. Car runs strong now. It blew the intercooler piping off of the throttle body today.. VRROOooommm POP *stall* ...
Got a TPS that measures fine. Still have a bouncing idle. Need to fix an oil leak on the turbo feed line, it's leaking from the adapter that screws into the engine block.
New spark plugs fixed my starting problems. Car runs strong now. It blew the intercooler piping off of the throttle body today.. VRROOooommm POP *stall* ...
Got a TPS that measures fine. Still have a bouncing idle. Need to fix an oil leak on the turbo feed line, it's leaking from the adapter that screws into the engine block.
I still have that other feed line that you left in my garage if you want to use that one.
a tps isnt needed for operation. for a HT, i believe the tps is only used to tell the HT that the throttle has been pressed before it can notice such a change from the map sensor.
I fixed my idle and got a new wideband O2 sensor.
Sometimes the car runs great, enough to blow the intercooler pipes off.
Still have trouble with it bogging down when it gets warm.
The FCD I have doesn't work right and leans it out like crazy, so I also hit fuel cut at a pretty low RPM.
I've mostly been too busy with other stuff to work on it. The car still sits..
11.5 months and counting.
Sometimes the car runs great, enough to blow the intercooler pipes off.
Still have trouble with it bogging down when it gets warm.
The FCD I have doesn't work right and leans it out like crazy, so I also hit fuel cut at a pretty low RPM.
I've mostly been too busy with other stuff to work on it. The car still sits..
11.5 months and counting.
Turns out that motor has zero compression on the rear rotor. Explains why it was hard to start.
I picked up a recently rebuilt street ported motor with a history I'm more familiar with. I know the last owner who ran the engine.
I got it installed and swapped out my intercooler with "universal" pipes for a greddy fmic with pipes that fit much nicer in the FC engine bay. I drove the car all over town, it was running great until I started losing fuel pressure. Ran out of time to fix it so it's parked for another week.
Getting closer. Also filling up the garage with engines that need rebuilds.
Also got my first moving violation in this car. $60 for no front tag.
I picked up a recently rebuilt street ported motor with a history I'm more familiar with. I know the last owner who ran the engine.
I got it installed and swapped out my intercooler with "universal" pipes for a greddy fmic with pipes that fit much nicer in the FC engine bay. I drove the car all over town, it was running great until I started losing fuel pressure. Ran out of time to fix it so it's parked for another week.
Getting closer. Also filling up the garage with engines that need rebuilds.
Also got my first moving violation in this car. $60 for no front tag.
I forgot to close the hood all the way before taking the pictures, and the front bumper was loose. So the front of the car looks weird. But here's what it looks like before I part it out.






The flash makes the interior look faded, but it's all actually still dark black.
The car does need to be vacuumed and I need to put the interior back together near the ECU. I had the rug up to take electrical readings at the ECU plug.
The car does need to be vacuumed and I need to put the interior back together near the ECU. I had the rug up to take electrical readings at the ECU plug.
Someone asked for more pictures of the bumper. So they're attached to this post.
Like I said, when I was taking the pictures the bumper was on a little loose causing it to droop. With some adjustment it fits very well. The front has been trimmed some at the bottom to clear the intercooler. Sometimes this causes the middle to rise a little and look odd, I've considering getting a peice of aluminum stock from the hardware store and attaching it to the bottom of the intercooler to direct air better and keep the bumper straight.
Like I said, when I was taking the pictures the bumper was on a little loose causing it to droop. With some adjustment it fits very well. The front has been trimmed some at the bottom to clear the intercooler. Sometimes this causes the middle to rise a little and look odd, I've considering getting a peice of aluminum stock from the hardware store and attaching it to the bottom of the intercooler to direct air better and keep the bumper straight.
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Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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Sep 16, 2018 07:16 PM







