1990 GXL NA to Bridgeported 13BT swap
01-14-07, 11:48 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'll pick up where I left off next weekend.
Some parts I ordered that should be arriving this week include...
And of course I have some work to do on that engine. I intend to replace those red intake manifolds with ones that aren't cracked. I have stainless fuel lines and an FPR that needs to be installed. The oil temperature sender was broken off in the block and will have to be removed. I'll also need to make a new turbo oil drain and do something about the coolant line sitting on the turbo.
Some parts I ordered that should be arriving this week include...
- Haltech E6X
- New brake rotors and pads
- Stance Coilovers
- Racing Beat front and rear swaybars and endlinks
- Racing Beat rear camber adjuster
- Racing Beat REV TII exhaust
- Enkei RPM2 wheels 17x8 front, 17x9 rear
- Kuhmo ASX tires
- ACT Extreme S/S clutch and pressure plate
And of course I have some work to do on that engine. I intend to replace those red intake manifolds with ones that aren't cracked. I have stainless fuel lines and an FPR that needs to be installed. The oil temperature sender was broken off in the block and will have to be removed. I'll also need to make a new turbo oil drain and do something about the coolant line sitting on the turbo.
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01-15-07, 10:23 AM
#8
Engine, Not Motor
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Very nice work. Be sure to send me a PM to get this project into this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=608165
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=608165
01-18-07, 06:34 PM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The new parts start to arrive:
So far I have...
Still waiting for..
This must be the fun way to do a "turbo swap".
So far I have...
- Full-bridgeport 13BT engine
- TII transmission, driveshaft, LSD, axles
- Exhaust manifold and wastegate
- TO4E 60 trim turbo
- FMIC with blitz BOV
- Koyo radiator
- Flex-a-lite blackmagic 150 electric fan
- UHMW polyethylene subframe, engine, transmission and LSD mounts
- UHMW polyethylene DTSS eliminators
- Mazda competition front diff mount
- Racing beat sway-bars and adjustable end links
- Racing beat rear camber adjuster
- Racing beat TII exhaust with new gaskets and hangers
- Stance FC3S coilovers
- EBC Greenstuff brake pads
- ACT Extreme pressure plate and clutch disc
- Walbro 255 fuel pump
- Aeromotive FPR
- stainless braided fuel lines
- stainless braided clutch and brake lines
- stainless braided oil cooler lines
- Innovate LC-1 wideband O2 controller and sensor
- SMP oil filter pedestal with two 1/8 NPT ports
Still waiting for..
- Haltech E6X flying lead kit with sensors
- nickle plated brake rotors that won't rust like cheap ones
- SAMCO radiator hoses
- Enkei RPM2 wheels, 17x8 and 17x9 with tires
- random things like a new thermostat, spark plugs, oil filter, etc
This must be the fun way to do a "turbo swap".
Last edited by daten; 01-18-07 at 06:49 PM.
i went from a 91 coupe to a full 13b-t bridgeport
01-19-07, 03:54 PM
#14
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very nice...I must say, I'm jealous...I've driven some mean FD's at the shop 375+whp,I can only imagine that much power in a FC....looks like your gonna do it right,and yeah are the rails annodized? or paint? either way looks ****en sweet.
01-19-07, 07:06 PM
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The rails are just stock TII rails, cleaned and painted with a two coat paint from autozone that has a metallic ground coat and colored clear coat that makes it look like a glossed anodized. And they have metric to AN adapters from summit.
And I cut some of the bits that stick out to hold the banjo bolt in place off, in case they interfered with the adapters.
The injectors are 720cc primaries and 1000cc secondaries.
And I cut some of the bits that stick out to hold the banjo bolt in place off, in case they interfered with the adapters.
The injectors are 720cc primaries and 1000cc secondaries.
01-19-07, 07:12 PM
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by djmtsu
Soooo....did you win the lotto or something?
01-22-07, 10:04 PM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I now have the exhaust, drivetrain, suspension, wheels, front and rear subframes off of the car. I need to clean the subframes up, put the new mounts and bushings in, then reinstall it all with the new suspension next weekend.
I forgot to take my camera to the garage this time.
I forgot to take my camera to the garage this time.
01-28-07, 09:07 PM
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'll post pictures later.
I got the subframes cleaned and painted.
I replaced all of the suspension bushings.
I installed the DTSS eliminators.
I reinstalled the front subframe.
I installed the new front swaybar, endlinks, coilovers, brake discs and brake pads.
I didn't have time to reinstall the rear suspension this weekend.
Let me say.. I bought an entire set of UHMW polyethylene bushings for the car, which I was excited about. They're solid "plastic" and about one step away from solid metal bushings but lighter. As far as mounts go, they're awesome and I highly recommend them. However, as far as bushings go.. they don't fit. The size is close, but these things can't squeeze.. instead pressure builds up when you try to press them in until they shatter and explode sending sharp shards everywhere. Even the set I managed to install on the rear control arm was so warped by the time I got it pressed in that the metal sleeve couldn't be pressed into the center of it. I tried pressing the bushings in the other control arm with the sleeve at the same time and that made it even worse, plus I couldn't get the thing out when I was done and had to use one of my extra control arms.
At least based on my experience, if you're replacing your worn out bushings, go with softer polyurethane ones, they're still very stiff and may be all the upgrade you're looking for and they're much easier to install.
I got the subframes cleaned and painted.
I replaced all of the suspension bushings.
I installed the DTSS eliminators.
I reinstalled the front subframe.
I installed the new front swaybar, endlinks, coilovers, brake discs and brake pads.
I didn't have time to reinstall the rear suspension this weekend.
Let me say.. I bought an entire set of UHMW polyethylene bushings for the car, which I was excited about. They're solid "plastic" and about one step away from solid metal bushings but lighter. As far as mounts go, they're awesome and I highly recommend them. However, as far as bushings go.. they don't fit. The size is close, but these things can't squeeze.. instead pressure builds up when you try to press them in until they shatter and explode sending sharp shards everywhere. Even the set I managed to install on the rear control arm was so warped by the time I got it pressed in that the metal sleeve couldn't be pressed into the center of it. I tried pressing the bushings in the other control arm with the sleeve at the same time and that made it even worse, plus I couldn't get the thing out when I was done and had to use one of my extra control arms.
At least based on my experience, if you're replacing your worn out bushings, go with softer polyurethane ones, they're still very stiff and may be all the upgrade you're looking for and they're much easier to install.
01-29-07, 08:30 AM
#25
This is really disappointing to hear. This is something you need to bring up to Montgomery Machine and let them know about. They should be able to correct the problem and ship out another set that fits.
The only thing I can imagine that would throw them off in their measurements is a difference in the rear trailing arms between Series 5 and Series 4. Alternatively the difference between Turbo and Non-turbo rear subframe assemblies. Compared side by side the series 4 non turbo and Series 5 Turbo subframes have different castings of trailing arms and the pressed/welded sheet metal of the front subframe is physically smaller.
When I have time I'll dig through some pictures I have for a side by side comparison of the two.
Just as an FYI to anyone reading this, we're not just trying to hammer these bushings in, we have a real 12ton shop press and arbor plates for removing and reinstalling these bushings. The DTSS bushings always go in very smoothly.
The only thing I can imagine that would throw them off in their measurements is a difference in the rear trailing arms between Series 5 and Series 4. Alternatively the difference between Turbo and Non-turbo rear subframe assemblies. Compared side by side the series 4 non turbo and Series 5 Turbo subframes have different castings of trailing arms and the pressed/welded sheet metal of the front subframe is physically smaller.
When I have time I'll dig through some pictures I have for a side by side comparison of the two.
Just as an FYI to anyone reading this, we're not just trying to hammer these bushings in, we have a real 12ton shop press and arbor plates for removing and reinstalling these bushings. The DTSS bushings always go in very smoothly.
Originally Posted by daten
I'll post pictures later.
I got the subframes cleaned and painted.
I replaced all of the suspension bushings.
I installed the DTSS eliminators.
I reinstalled the front subframe.
I installed the new front swaybar, endlinks, coilovers, brake discs and brake pads.
I didn't have time to reinstall the rear suspension this weekend.
Let me say.. I bought an entire set of UHMW polyethylene bushings for the car, which I was excited about. They're solid "plastic" and about one step away from solid metal bushings but lighter. As far as mounts go, they're awesome and I highly recommend them. However, as far as bushings go.. they don't fit. The size is close, but these things can't squeeze.. instead pressure builds up when you try to press them in until they shatter and explode sending sharp shards everywhere. Even the set I managed to install on the rear control arm was so warped by the time I got it pressed in that the metal sleeve couldn't be pressed into the center of it. I tried pressing the bushings in the other control arm with the sleeve at the same time and that made it even worse, plus I couldn't get the thing out when I was done and had to use one of my extra control arms.
At least based on my experience, if you're replacing your worn out bushings, go with softer polyurethane ones, they're still very stiff and may be all the upgrade you're looking for and they're much easier to install.
I got the subframes cleaned and painted.
I replaced all of the suspension bushings.
I installed the DTSS eliminators.
I reinstalled the front subframe.
I installed the new front swaybar, endlinks, coilovers, brake discs and brake pads.
I didn't have time to reinstall the rear suspension this weekend.
Let me say.. I bought an entire set of UHMW polyethylene bushings for the car, which I was excited about. They're solid "plastic" and about one step away from solid metal bushings but lighter. As far as mounts go, they're awesome and I highly recommend them. However, as far as bushings go.. they don't fit. The size is close, but these things can't squeeze.. instead pressure builds up when you try to press them in until they shatter and explode sending sharp shards everywhere. Even the set I managed to install on the rear control arm was so warped by the time I got it pressed in that the metal sleeve couldn't be pressed into the center of it. I tried pressing the bushings in the other control arm with the sleeve at the same time and that made it even worse, plus I couldn't get the thing out when I was done and had to use one of my extra control arms.
At least based on my experience, if you're replacing your worn out bushings, go with softer polyurethane ones, they're still very stiff and may be all the upgrade you're looking for and they're much easier to install.