1990 GXL NA to Bridgeported 13BT swap
#76
I'm rotary for life!
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ottawa
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Thats just so awesome man, I just had my engine done, waiting for my driveshaft to be fixed up and it should be good (other then waiting for new carbon fiber hood and exhaust).
Wish I could afford a nice intercooler like yours. Wish i had a place to do it my self like your doing but my drive way is on a pretty big slop :-(
Good job man.
Wish I could afford a nice intercooler like yours. Wish i had a place to do it my self like your doing but my drive way is on a pretty big slop :-(
Good job man.
#77
Wish he had a running rx7
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Oklahoma City
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Even if he was I don't care I still like what he is doing. My friend thinks he car is bad *** and his other buddys cars are bad *** (VW) with little turbos and everything only if he saw this car in person he would be hold crap. Not saying VW are bad but he thinks there the fast car in the world. He has a 86 Scirocco that made 65hp and 95ft lb torque.
#78
Couldn't stay away
iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by RX7freak08
Even if he was I don't care I still like what he is doing. My friend thinks he car is bad *** and his other buddys cars are bad *** (VW) with little turbos and everything only if he saw this car in person he would be hold crap. Not saying VW are bad but he thinks there the fast car in the world. He has a 86 Scirocco that made 65hp and 95ft lb torque.
Anywho... back on topic.
#79
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
Now that you have the IC piping in place I think you should retrim these holes so the pipe is centered and then line the cut with c-channel molding.
At the very least it would look better and if there is any movement due to engine vibration it could get chewed up pretty good as it sits now.
#80
Couldn't stay away
iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by clokker
[IMG][/IMG]
Now that you have the IC piping in place I think you should retrim these holes so the pipe is centered and then line the cut with c-channel molding.
At the very least it would look better and if there is any movement due to engine vibration it could get chewed up pretty good as it sits now.
Now that you have the IC piping in place I think you should retrim these holes so the pipe is centered and then line the cut with c-channel molding.
At the very least it would look better and if there is any movement due to engine vibration it could get chewed up pretty good as it sits now.
The edges have been deburred and some lining has been inserted to prevent chafing.
#81
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'll try to get more recent pictures soon.
F1bluerx7 is correct, I filed the edges and made some molding to protect things. I've repositioned the FMIC a little since then, removed some of the metal tabs that stick out in the front of the car so it can sit flush. And I installed the rest of the T-bolt clamps. It shouldn't be an issue anymore.
F1bluerx7 is correct, I filed the edges and made some molding to protect things. I've repositioned the FMIC a little since then, removed some of the metal tabs that stick out in the front of the car so it can sit flush. And I installed the rest of the T-bolt clamps. It shouldn't be an issue anymore.
#84
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Brand new TII throttle cable came today, the other one I have is old and chewed up.
Also got new vents for the top of the dash.
I have my wiper motor wired back up without the engine harness.
I have the haltech mounted and the wiring run through the firewall, I'm going to start crimping the connectors and wiring that up next weekend hopefully. Still waiting for the sensors to arrive from speedmachine, I ordered them 8 weeks ago....
Also got new vents for the top of the dash.
I have my wiper motor wired back up without the engine harness.
I have the haltech mounted and the wiring run through the firewall, I'm going to start crimping the connectors and wiring that up next weekend hopefully. Still waiting for the sensors to arrive from speedmachine, I ordered them 8 weeks ago....
#85
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I guess it might help to have some gauges by the time this is running.
I ordered these today:
Greddy 52mm Electric Exhaust Temp
Greddy 52mm Electric Boost
Defi D-Gauge Air/Fuel Ratio
I ordered these today:
Greddy 52mm Electric Exhaust Temp
Greddy 52mm Electric Boost
Defi D-Gauge Air/Fuel Ratio
#86
Couldn't stay away
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Originally Posted by daten
I guess it might help to have some gauges by the time this is running.
I ordered these today:
Defi D-Gauge Air/Fuel Ratio[/URL]
I ordered these today:
Defi D-Gauge Air/Fuel Ratio[/URL]
Is it possible to T- off the FPR where the gauge goes so you can have one gauge at the FPR and another fuel pressure gauge in cabin?
#87
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by f1blueRx7
Thats nice! I like the orange greddy gauges.
Is it possible to T- off the FPR where the gauge goes so you can have one gauge at the FPR and another fuel pressure gauge in cabin?
Is it possible to T- off the FPR where the gauge goes so you can have one gauge at the FPR and another fuel pressure gauge in cabin?
Otherwise you can just do an inline gauge, summit has T-adapters for both NPT and AN connections.
#90
Senior Member
Thread Starter
progress:
I have pictures to put online later.
I also spotted a heavily modified bright green FD on my way up to the garage today.
- installed new throttle cable from mazda
- capped off unused coolant and vacuum pipes
- installed haltech, completed under dash wiring, fuel pump wiring and half of the engine bay wiring.. still waiting for coolant, air and throttle sensors
- installed shine-auto front bumper
I have pictures to put online later.
I also spotted a heavily modified bright green FD on my way up to the garage today.
#92
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hah, good question!
I bought it from an Army paratrooper in North Carolina. He and one of his army friends, picked it up with their bare hands (full longblock!), carried it across the garage and set it in the van.
I can barely drag an engine across the garage floor when it's sitting on a pallet.
I bought it from an Army paratrooper in North Carolina. He and one of his army friends, picked it up with their bare hands (full longblock!), carried it across the garage and set it in the van.
I can barely drag an engine across the garage floor when it's sitting on a pallet.
#94
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'm not a big fan of the flat hood, I just like the way the FC looks with the stock TII hood.
I need to get the whole thing painted at some point, because right now it has a white with blue pearl paint job, black mirrors and wing, red hood and black bumper. I want it to just all be solid white. Until I can get that done I'll probably run my heavy steal white NA hood anyway.
I need to get the whole thing painted at some point, because right now it has a white with blue pearl paint job, black mirrors and wing, red hood and black bumper. I want it to just all be solid white. Until I can get that done I'll probably run my heavy steal white NA hood anyway.
#97
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Haltech E6X installed. The haltech air, coolant and tps sensors all needed some work.
I'll get pictures up eventually. I want to organized and wrap the harness first.
I didn't get a chance to install my A/F ratio gauge today because I forgot the gauge pod when I left for the garage in the morning. Hopefully I can get that done tomorrow. I spent some time trimming my shine auto project bumper to fit around the FMIC instead, not done that yet either.
- I drilled and tapped a hole in my greddy intake elbow for the air temp.
- I drilled out the stock sensor hole in the water pump and tapped it for the larger coolant temp sensor.
- I made a mounting bracket for the TPS and got it mounted on the throttle body.
- I installed new fuel injector clips and wired those into the haltech harness.
- I also spliced the harness into the coils, put a new connector on the CAS, wired up the MAP sensor.. etc etc
I'll get pictures up eventually. I want to organized and wrap the harness first.
I didn't get a chance to install my A/F ratio gauge today because I forgot the gauge pod when I left for the garage in the morning. Hopefully I can get that done tomorrow. I spent some time trimming my shine auto project bumper to fit around the FMIC instead, not done that yet either.
#98
Senior Member
Thread Starter
- Got my harness wrapped
- changed some things on the battery relocation, added an extra fuse box
- got a 150amp circuit breaker for the back, 100amp fuse up front
- should be getting my downpipe welded up with a v-band flange and dump tube for the WG this weekend
- greddy gauges got here today, boost and EGT
- bumper is getting painted this week, I'll get the rest of the car painted later and continue to run my steel NA hood until then since it matches
I finally got my camera back from f1bluerx7 so I should be able to get pictures soon.
It would be great if I can get the car on the road by June 2nd so I can make the MD BBQ.
Last edited by daten; 05-15-07 at 08:52 PM. Reason: added pictures
#100
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Cut my RB TII downpipe and welded up a flex-pipe, 45 degree bend, straight 3-inch pipe and 3 inch v-band for the turbo. And I put two sensor bungs in it.
Which brings me to a piece of advise.. when welding a sensor bung on, do NOT leave the plug in. I read somewhere on this forum that leaving the plug in can help prevent the bung from warping when you weld it. Well, the problem is the welder either melted and fused the threads, so after about an hour with a breaker bar.. I got the plug out without any threads on it. I spent the rest of the weekend find an 18mm tap.
The second bung I welded without a plug in it and it works perfectly.
Pictures coming later.
Hopefully next weekend I can finish the little things, load up a base map and get it to idle.
Which brings me to a piece of advise.. when welding a sensor bung on, do NOT leave the plug in. I read somewhere on this forum that leaving the plug in can help prevent the bung from warping when you weld it. Well, the problem is the welder either melted and fused the threads, so after about an hour with a breaker bar.. I got the plug out without any threads on it. I spent the rest of the weekend find an 18mm tap.
The second bung I welded without a plug in it and it works perfectly.
Pictures coming later.
Hopefully next weekend I can finish the little things, load up a base map and get it to idle.