1990 GXL NA to Bridgeported 13BT swap
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From: Round Hill, VA
Originally Posted by gelonjennings
hey i have a question it might be stupid but i really need to know i have a n/a 1987 rx7 and i wanted to know can i put a turbo on it built or not
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...to_turbo2.html
I have no idea what you just said.
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From: Round Hill, VA
Got my transmission and driveshaft in the car, was still waiting for a pilot bearing seal from mazdatrix before I can install the engine, it'll have to wait until next weekend. Pictures later.
Originally Posted by daten
Got my transmission and driveshaft in the car, was still waiting for a pilot bearing seal from mazdatrix before I can install the engine, it'll have to wait until next weekend. Pictures later.
Day jobs are for suckers. Lets wrap this **** up
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From: Round Hill, VA
New clutch and pressure plate, oil filter pedestal, mazda oil filter. You may notice someone broke the oil temp sensor off in the hole.. more on that later.
Also, my intake manifolds are no longer red, the water pump is no longer black. New gaskets on those too. Block off plates installed. Bolts to block off oil injectors arrived.
So, the hollow part of the oil temp sensor was broken off in the block when I got the engine. I picked up some broken screw extractors which looked like they should work pretty well...
Except that thing was really in there.. the extractor broke clean off. I guess that is plugged now. =)
Also, my intake manifolds are no longer red, the water pump is no longer black. New gaskets on those too. Block off plates installed. Bolts to block off oil injectors arrived.
So, the hollow part of the oil temp sensor was broken off in the block when I got the engine. I picked up some broken screw extractors which looked like they should work pretty well...
Except that thing was really in there.. the extractor broke clean off. I guess that is plugged now. =)
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From: Round Hill, VA
I got my engine in the car yesterday, pictures later. I'm working on the exhaust today, and fuel system if I have time.
So a note about the ARP bolts. The ones I bought are about 1mm shorter than the part of the oil injector below the bolt-head on the injector. That is.. the threads and part that goes inside the banjo ends of the injector lines.
I forgot that the bolts need to be much shorter than that when the lines aren't present.
Technically the bolts I bought are too long to be used by themselves. To fix this for now, I carefully removed the ends of my old injector lines and used them as spacers so the bolts can be torqued down and not go too far into the manifolds or housings.
So a note about the ARP bolts. The ones I bought are about 1mm shorter than the part of the oil injector below the bolt-head on the injector. That is.. the threads and part that goes inside the banjo ends of the injector lines.
I forgot that the bolts need to be much shorter than that when the lines aren't present.
Technically the bolts I bought are too long to be used by themselves. To fix this for now, I carefully removed the ends of my old injector lines and used them as spacers so the bolts can be torqued down and not go too far into the manifolds or housings.
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by daten
Except that thing was really in there.. the extractor broke clean off. I guess that is plugged now. =)
They're a last resort type option. You can try using a punch and a hammer to tap the broken extractor bit out but it's not going to be easy. And they're very hard to drill due to the high-tungston steel used. You may be able to tack-weld bolt to it and back it out that way.
yes.. at least temporarily, I don't expect it to last.
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From: Round Hill, VA
This weekend:
TODO:
- new fuel system installed, stainless braided lines all the way to the tank, AN fittings, rails are now in parallel, FPR mounted, etc.
- rest of the t-bolt clamps on the intercooler piping have been installed
- most of the battery relocation to the rear passenger side bin is complete, custom mounting brackets are bolted in, battery is secure, positive battery line is run as far as the ECU right now, ran out of time
TODO:
- finish battery wiring
- finish plumbing (coolant lines, turbo oil feed) and fill up liquids
- install haltech e6x, including flying lead harness, connectors, coils, boost controller, o2 sensor
- have downpipe modified to match v-band turbo
- get full alignment and set coilovers
- tune haltech
- have car painted
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From: Round Hill, VA
Progress:
* battery relocation done
* blackmagic 150 e-fan installed
* transmission fluid done
* new throttle cable ordered
TODO:
* turbo oil feed line, coolant and oil fillup, gas and premix fillup
* haltech install (sensor pack almost 2 months late from speed machine performance, and counting..
)
* modified downpipe
* alignment
* washer fluid relocation
* battery relocation done
* blackmagic 150 e-fan installed
* transmission fluid done
* new throttle cable ordered
TODO:
* turbo oil feed line, coolant and oil fillup, gas and premix fillup
* haltech install (sensor pack almost 2 months late from speed machine performance, and counting..
)* modified downpipe
* alignment
* washer fluid relocation
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From: Round Hill, VA
I've ordered the parts for the turbo oil feed from summit, comes out to about $90.
Parts and prices..
AER-FBM2524 -- STEEL 1/2 MP/#4 37. FLARE $5.39
EAR-9919BFGERL -- -4 AN TO 12 MM-1.5 ADAPTER $10.69
SUM-220487 -- -4 90 DEGREE HOSE END $10.39
SUM-230406 -- SS HOSE -4 6FT $21.69
TNT-20259 -- OIL PLATE ADAPTOR $15.95
TNT-30141 -- GASKET $1.95
I also found the tool I need to do the wiring for the haltech. which aparently uses GM weatherpack connectors.
Parts and prices..
AER-FBM2524 -- STEEL 1/2 MP/#4 37. FLARE $5.39
EAR-9919BFGERL -- -4 AN TO 12 MM-1.5 ADAPTER $10.69
SUM-220487 -- -4 90 DEGREE HOSE END $10.39
SUM-230406 -- SS HOSE -4 6FT $21.69
TNT-20259 -- OIL PLATE ADAPTOR $15.95
TNT-30141 -- GASKET $1.95
I also found the tool I need to do the wiring for the haltech. which aparently uses GM weatherpack connectors.
Originally Posted by RX7freak08
Dude i love this project that you did. I wish i had the money to do all this.
I'd not recommend it. This guy's in debt to his ears
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From: Round Hill, VA
Originally Posted by f1blueRx7
I'd not recommend it. This guy's in debt to his ears
Any credit I have is carefully managed and well within my means.
If you would like to discuss my personal finances, please do it privately.
This thread isn't the appropriate place.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by daten
I also found the tool I need to do the wiring for the haltech. which aparently uses GM weatherpack connectors.
Originally Posted by daten
That isn't true and you know it.
Any credit I have is carefully managed and well within my means.
If you would like to discuss my personal finances, please do it privately.
This thread isn't the appropriate place.
Any credit I have is carefully managed and well within my means.
If you would like to discuss my personal finances, please do it privately.
This thread isn't the appropriate place.
You should know me better then that.
Last edited by F1blueRx7; Apr 11, 2007 at 09:41 AM.
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From: Round Hill, VA
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
That looks like a good quality tool. What was the price? I've been looking for an inexpensive WeatherPack crimper for a while since they all seem to be $100+. I'm tired of having to solder onto the terminals...