Hello all.

Ive got a 87 turbo 2. The engine is toast at least as far as I can tell. Soup in the pan and comp is 90 in front off of the top plug and 60 in back via the top plug. So Im buying a new engine set. Ive dealt with cars enough to know I dont know what Im doing when it comes to Rotary engines. So Im buying a new engine. What to do with the old engine? Hell lets disect it and figure out how it ticks and spec it out to see whats really toast. Ive done a bit of research to figure out how to do this.

I cannot find a FSM to download. Im not sure I need it as I have access to MOD and All Data. Nothing so far has led me to my answers.

So Im pulling the old engine apart. All sources say take the 2 and a 1/8" or 52mm nut off the flywheel, remove the flywheel and then remove the eccentric shaft pulley... I cannot remove the bolt on this pulley. I used a 700 ft, lb snap on inpact gun. Then I had my 160lb helper stand on the engine while I put my 200 lb body on the end of a 3ft breaker bar.... Something is seriously wrong so we stopped. I even gave the bolt a tap with a forged hammer to break any possible lock tite that might be holding this thing on.

What gives?

There were no helpful tips anywhere to getting this bolt off on the internet.


Ray

 

From what I recall, 300ft/lbs is enough to break that flywheel nut. You're doing it wrong though. You can't just pull the eccentric shaft. The engine "unstacks" with alternating plates and housings. I recommend buying yourself an Atkins or Pinapple rebuild video. They give detailed information on tearing down and building a 13B.

Also, links to the FSM are located in the 2nd FAQ in this forum.

 

As per the FAQ

 

I thought I wrote it wrong for a sec but I didnt. Im not trying to remove the shaft. The pulley peice on the front of the motor. It says remove the back fly wheel and the nut then go to the other side of the motor and remove the pulley. There is a bolt and a the pulley and underneath the bolt is a spring. Im not having a problem with getting the back nut off and the flywheel. And I have seen several vids about taking this motor apart. None of them focus on the pulley Im looking at except to say to not forget that spring.

Ray

 

OH. I misunderstood what you said. As long as you get the nuts off, there shouldn't be *too* much resistance in removing the pulley.

 

oops edit:

Since you have the nut & front bolt off, just use a crowbar or something to pry on that pulley. Don't worry about the spring. You mentioned you are just taking this engine apart to see what's inside.

You were probably reading about the front cover removal while the engines are in the car, which is a special procedure in which you don't want things in that spring area to move.

Edit again. You were unable to remove the front pulley bolt? Are you sure your aren't tightening it? Seriously, that bolt is torqued 80-95 lb/ft, certainly no where near the massive 350 lb/ft of the flywheel nut, which you removed. There is no way that front pulley bolt is harder to remove than the flywheel nut.

 

put your rear weight/ flywheel back on lightly with keyway, and jig it tight so the front bolt can be undone



heat is your friend when undoing a front bolt with sealant

the rear weight/ flywheel will fall off with a dull blow from a soft hammer
( keep tension on the front bolt initially so to limit shock to torringtons )

also, when undoing all the tension bolts, be aware there is two outside the circumference of the bell housing

 

Yea It took me and 2 other guys with 2 6ft pieces of pipe to get one of those nuts off once. They can be a real pain. A torch works wonders on it though. Take a torch to it and then use the impact gun. It'll probably come right off.

 

The bolt is Loctited from the factory. A little bit of heat goes a long way.

 

If you get the Flywheel nut free, Keep the Flywheel ON,and Secure it with something(nut hand tight But Still on),to make the E-shaft stay in place while you take an impact Gun and Take the 19mm bolt out of the front pulley.I had NO problem getting the Flywheel Nut off with a 3/4 inch Breaker bar/3 feet long,and a 54mm socket..(then I did the 19mm the same way..and I have 3 Vertebrae Toasted!).

 

torch it before trying to break it free

 

1 19mm ,1 3' snap on breaker bar with 1 5' floor jack handle over it with 2 guys one 200lbs and the other 300+ lbs while 5 other guys stood on the motor and a pry bar levered between the flywheel and the nut on the housing on the back is what it took. Green Locktite I think. We didnt have a torch of any kind around. It took so much effort but it finally broke free. I got it all apart.

My findings are that all the inner orange colored o-rings are bad, the #2 housing is galled from a busted apex seal and several other seals on both rotors were broken in various areas including the sides. The Chrome doesnt feel grooved with a fingernail, but it sure looks grooved so maybe all the housings are bad from water exposure.
Thanks you guys!


Ray

 

yeah I have heard that big bolt is no fun. glad you got it apart.