I havent been able to track down a torque wrench that can do 400-500ft/lbs like the service manual says it needs. Would using my 350ft/lb wrench and then just giving it an extra pull with a regular wrench get me by? Thanks

Geoff

 

If you do find a torque wrench that can do 400-500ft/lbs it is going to cost a lot. I think you will be fine with a 350ft/lb torque wrench. Did that thing cost a lot? When I was looking those cost quite abit. I used my 275lb dad, he worked great. Good luck
Steven

 

On the advice of a rotary mechanic, I removed and replaced my flywheel nut with a compressed air rattle gun (I hired the rattle gun and compressor for half a day and borrowed the socket off him). For tightening the nut, he said to tighten it until it appears to have stopped moving, the put a mark on the nut and flywheel and try tightening it some more. The mark will show you the nut has moved a little bit. Keep doing this until you can rattle it for about 5 seconds and not get any more movement. Use threadlock also.

 

Thanks for the responses. I was thinking of measuring every 50 ft/lbs to see what kind of a pattern it takes. Then just approximating between 400 and 500 ft/lbs. When I got my wrench it cost 50 bucks I beleive. Thanks again!

Geoff

 

How about a breakover bar one foot long, putting a two foot pipe over the breakover, and taking a 190 lb man and have him stand on the breakover bar two feet from the socket?????

 

Boy, those backyard torque procedures scare me.

Use threadlocker on the threads - that's what keeps it on.&nbsp I've always used my electric impact gun (what NZConvertible calls a "rattle gun") that's only rated at 260 lb/ft, and I've never had a problem with the nut falling off.



-Ted

 

Oops, more Kiwi slang, sorry!

 

Here are the Mazda recommended factory tools....






These work great and come with instructions. What is kinda funny is that the instructions are not much different than HAILERS method

The listed torque is approximately 380 to 400 ft-lbs to properly torque the nut and threadlocker is not necessary. You can....but it will be harder to remove if needed later.

The excentric shaft and the counterweight (or stock flywheel) are tapered. They fit together like a compression fitting and don't need to be overtorqued or threadlocked. An airgun is great for removal, but not recommended for the install. The tools are cheap and work well.

The tool instructions come with a formula to use your bodyweight and measure out on the large handle a certain number of inches and that will give the approximate torque

Not very complicated eh? lol

 

I learned something new!&nbsp No need to apologize!


-Ted

 

First you recommend the Mazda removal tools, and then you tell us to ignore that Mazda specifically recommends to use a threadlocker on the flywheel nut threads and a sealant on the flywheel nut to flywheel mating surfaces???


See above about threadlock requirements...
The impact gun makes it a breeze to take the flywheel nut on AND to put it back on.&nbsp Why stress and strain yourself when you let the tools do all the work - that's a definition of a "tool":&nbsp to make jobs easier.&nbsp I don't know where this "not recommended for install" comes from, but if you're a stickler for torque specs, then by all means, go buy a torque wrench.&nbsp I do not call calculating weight over x length on a bar a very accurate measurement of torque specs.&nbsp I've used an impact gun on over 20 rebuilds, and not one has failed to this day.&nbsp I've also used the recommended thread locker and sealant on the flywheel nut install, and none have come apart.


See above - I'd bet the impact gun make torque specs a lot more consistent than hanging off the side of a bar...



-Ted

 

Ouch Ted!!!

That hurt Yea, you are right, the manual does say that you need to apply threadlocker. I stand corrected! My bad

By the way the torque value is only 289 - 362 ft-lbs, so I was off on that too

Anyway, I was just trying to be helpful to the person who started the thread. The Mazda tools are a cheap and effective alternative. You could be a bit nicer Ted, I was not trying to disagree with you. I suppose that it sounded that way about the sealant though.

Anyway, the tools work very well. The bar has a lot of leverage. You don't have to pull very hard to remove the install is just as easy. The only downfall that I can think of is it can be difficult to position if you have the car on jacks since the bar is pretty long.

By the way, everyone knows you know your stuff Ted......You can at least be nice to the rest of us idiots

 

No rattle guns used here. Two foot extension, 190 lbs on the end should equal 380 ft/lbs. Just a touch overtorqued but more accurate than a rattle gun. I use locktite.If its good enough for the front pulley bolt, its good enough for the flywheel nut. Not a backyard method. Just common sense. Rattle guns, cheeez. humor.

 

red thread locker on the nut... breaker bar, with a 3 foot pipe on the end and a crowbar in the end of that...

the trick is, you have to get it to the 350ish foot pound of torque,,
the conversion table goes like this..

1Grunt = 75ish footpounds..
2Grunts= 235
3 Grunts = 325

so half passed 3 Grunts

 

Can anyone recommend a model/brand of electric impact gun which has been successfully used more than once to remove and install a flywheel?

 

should i let him borrow my breaker bar steven...

I agree with Ted though....

electric impact gun? to tighted a flywheel bolt? They must have some pretty crazy *** ones out there......

 

After breaking a brand new breaker bar removing my latest flywheel nut, I broke out the big boy: a 1" drive (reduced to 3/4" to fit my 2 1/8 inch socket) impact gun rated at 1200 ft-lbs. Came off in a literal blink of an eye.

This bad boy was made for removing the bolts on commercial trucks and trailors Overkill OWNS!

I have seen electric impact guns out there putting out over 400 ft-lbs. They are pricey, though.

Threadlocker doesn't make it that much harder to remove; just heat up the nut with a torch first to break down the thredlocker.

 

http://www.makita.com/Tools_Item_View.asp?id=288

722 ft-lbs good enough?


this is good too:
http://www.makita.com/Tools_Item_View.asp?id=283

 

ridiculous price?

 

we had my 4 1/2 foot breaker bar on top of a rent break bar from the local tool rental place....we were jumping on the bar to try and break the nut...the socket slipped off....and we were ready to give up or try another method....i went to put the socket back on..the the nut was loose...lol......damn ******* thing was frusterating as **** though.....flywheels nuts and pilot bearings....

 

*****Can anyone recommend a model/brand of electric impact gun which has been successfully used more than once to remove and install a flywheel?**** Yeah. A Craftsman 3/4 breakover plus a 2 3/16 inch socket( 2 1/8th if your picky), and a fifteen buck 20 lb sledge hammer. Works each and every time.

Definition of a foot pound:
a unit of work equal to the work done by a force of one pound acting through a distance of one foot in the direction of the force

Or: Me standing on a Crafsman breakover two feet long.

 

Ohh that Makita 3/4 inch is making me hard... anyone know the price off the top of their head:

 

http://www.northwestpowertools.com/impact/6906.htm

I've seen them a couple bucks lower, but this is average.