apparently no auto store has heard of a flywheel locker or carry one and I already got the massive 54mm socket now I just cant keep the flywheel from turning!

I cant just order the way over priced part from mazdatrix because i need to get it done to day.

help?


BTW: im installing the RB aluminum flywheel.

 

get a small piece of chain, about 6-8 in. bolt one end to the flywheel using one of the clutch bolts. bolt the other end to the rear iron using one of the bolts used to mount the transmission. problem solved.

 

hey good deal!

 

RB makes a flywheel stopper bar. Its basically an iron bar with holes drilled in it, but it works. It wont help you much, but its just for future refference

 

well I wish someone would have told me that while I ordered of my 1500 purchase from them

 

They have a very nifty 54mm flywheel nut wrench as well. The two of them came out to about 60-65 shipped, I think.

 

gah I wish I had air tools, this bitch wont budge.

 

take it to a tire shop or a truck shop.

 

yeah... im not rich to own a nice truck or a flatbed to tow it to there.


I just borrowed my neighbors tank and that sucker came right off!

but now the flywheel wont budge!? do I have to get a puller like the book says?

 

Hit it with a two pound hammer up around the edge of the flywheel. You want to hit it in the area where the bolts for the clutch attach. Hit it a couple of times and it will pop right off.

 

keeping the flywheel or upgrading?

 

Im staring at my aluminum RB flywheel waiting to put that biotch in.



I just tried that again and nothing.

is there like a snap ring or a key or something that needs to be removed that I dont see?

 

I use a sledge hammer around the perimeter of the flywheel but I usually am replacing the flywheel if your not replacing it you can have a friend hold a block of wood where you are going to hit to protect the flywheel.

 

that sounds dangerous to the E shaft...


edit: you live in bartlett?

I have friends/family there

I live in geneva

 

yes bartlett and that should have no effect on the e shaft. I have had them where you had to beat the hell out of them to get them off. This is best for when you are replacing the flywheel. Is the engine out? if so then just haul off and whack it good

 

naw, the engine is sitting on its mounts, I got the car about a foot and a half in the air on 4 jacks.

and so far that sledgehammer isnt working.

 

that is the only way I have ever gotten it off sometimes it takes 10 good hits on alternating sides 90 degrees apart or so.

 

Neo-Luddites. Put the sledgehammer down and do it right.

 

for the past hour ive been modifying a timming case cover puller or something to work and I almost got it.

i hope.

 

okay day 2 putting the RB flywheel on


I dont have any torque wrenches that go to 300, mine only goes to 175

if I just impact it in will it be okay?

 

thats all I've ever done.......Im not saying its "proper" Im just saying Ive put 30,000kms on a flywheel that was put on with an impact.

 

yeah but its on tight.

cause its really hot outside and this huge drivetrain swap has gone on since friday night

 

On a rebuild video I bought they say to use a 1 foot long 100 ft pound torque wrench and practice till you have the feel for what 100 ft ponds feels like then use a 3 foot bar to torque it. I am certain that this is not going to be all that accurate however, it should be fairly close.

 

I believe Aaron said something in one of his posts about torqueing the nut to 150 and with a impact gun give it another 60 degree turn and she sould be snug.

 

The directions that came with the massive racing beat wrench said to put your full wieght on it a certain distance out. For instance, if you weigh 175, you would put your full weight 2 feet out from the center. If you weight 120, put full weight 3 feet out, ect. So you could get a pipe extencion on a breaker bar and approximate it that way. I don't think it has to be exatly 350, so as long as your close you chould be fine.