WayneBrady

iTrader: (4)

im livin that 130 amp life. going to get an efan wired in next

130 amp contour alt

Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

Any issues running stock S5 alt and E-fan something like a flex a lite 180?? 3000cfm 18amp constant.

I am considering ditching my stock fan. mainly just to open up the engine bay a bit.

Thanks
-M

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Nope, no issues. I ran that setup for at atleast 10 years.

Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

Thank you for the reply.

-M

Andrey Tarasenko

Doing a revive on the Contour Alts here because my S4s Alt is dying. Is there a specific year where the small 3G alt vs large alt is differentiated? Looking at rockauto it seems like I'm looking at a 95' to get the 130amp alt. I was going to go to pick n pull and dig through some Contours to see if they have the right alt + harness to make life slightly easier because shipping these to Canada is a nightmare in terms of shipping cost.

Also looking at the Amazon link for the pulley it is no longer available, would this pulley work https://store.alternatorparts.com/partno242106.aspx or https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Doub...-/131077736102?

Pastulo

Did this swap on my S4 this weekend. I am only showing 10v on my dash though, can someone confirm if my wiring is correct?



In the picture I have the 3 wire alt plug wired to
- Blue > 12v fused wire I ran from the spare engine fuse block space
- White > ran to the single white plug wire on the alternator
- Green > goes to the stock White/Black wire from the original alt plug (this should be for the dashboard)

Thanks

WayneBrady

iTrader: (4)

I ran the blue/red 12v fused wire directly to the positive battery terminal. no problems with my setup

Pastulo

Everything else is wired the same on your setup? I will check the voltage at the plug the way I wired it vs the voltage directly at the battery to see if there is a voltage drop with the way I have it now.

Pastulo

Update:

Fixed it. I did have everything wired correctly. Turns out the white wire with the black stripe is dead in my car, so it wasn't getting a 12v ignition source. That dead wire probably contributed to the lack of charging with the stock alternator also.

Thanks,

R-X-R

iTrader: (9)

how was it killing batteries?

Craze8

Revisiting this, I have the Taurus alternator on my fc, charges great no issues, produces correct voltages etc. My issue is when the electric fan turns on. It fields the alternator up to the 130amps and for a split second, as it swings the alternator to full 130amps, I get a "Brown out" a sudden voltage loss that browns everything. The control wires and fielding wires are all new. Using a VAT40 I see exactly what I describe, the alternator goes full field to 130amps, and at it does, voltage drops, after it spikes to the 130amps voltage returns normally. Doesn't mater what RPM the engine is at.

Things I've checked:
Obviously the battery, performed a full system check on the battery. Battery passes no problem.
Output of the alternator is as described at the alternator post and positive terminal.

Haven't checked:
Haven't done a voltage drop test on the charging cable. Thoughts are that if its charging normally any other time it shouldn't be an issue then.

I'm needing ideas before I induce more trouble with the system by relocating the battery and rewiring the positive cable. (Which isn't a bad idea, but I want to see if I can address this issue before creating any more potential issues.)

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

This may sound like a silly question, but where is your Sense wire connected? If it's on the Alternator output post, it won't have compensated for voltage drop in the output cable, hampering its performance. While it might not be very noticeable at first, a big electrical load such as an electric fan will put a spotlight on the matter quite fast due to Inrush Current needs at startup. This is especially true on the 2-speed Taurus Fan, which can spike to over 40A if starting on High. Then it settles down to the normal 27A or so.

It's just the nature of the beast with an E-fan. Fortunately, Taurus Alternators have a set timeframe to get back up to the correct voltage (see: Voltage Response Controller). Should be around 2 seconds I believe, but the whole setup depends on seeing accurate Battery Voltage in order to respond correctly.

In short, this is how it works:
Engine running with alternator at 14.0v>>>fan turns on (voltage drops to ~13.0v from extra load>>at most 2 seconds>> Alternator boosts output to come back to 14.0v

Craze8

Looked at my wiring of the alternator today. I is wired into my ignition on via megasquirt. S goes into the post on the alternator. A goes to my battery. I think I may have it wired wrong. I'm looking back through old posts trying to find a diagram.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Look in my gallery, the correct diagram is there.

Craze8

Thanks for that. Mine is wired correctly then. Being in the automotive field as long as I have, I've never seen an alternator cause a sharp voltage drop when it goes full field. I can't remember if it did it 3 years ago when it was still running or if it's something new with this engine. I did change from dual belts to a serpentine belt but pulleys are identical in size.

DirtyVert

Hopefully I'm not breaking any rules by chiming in on this 13 year old thread lol. But when running the new wire from the alternator post to the battery, is the stock wiring (that T's from the alternator to fuse block and main harness) left as is? Or should I be disconnecting that?

I don't see mention anywhere of replacing this wire from the alt to the fuse block so any help would be appreciated