Well, that pulley isn't going to slip!


Looks awesome.

 

Yea belt works great for racing, love it. Looks like I'll be swapping this alt into my t2 and turbo gsl-se

 

Part of me wants to gilmer, but I don't want the whine that comes with it. It might drown out my ITB's lol. What's your take Izzy?

 

With the belt properly adjusted, the noise is minimal. Most kits don't have a proper belt included, most are short causing them to be too tight.

 

Gilmer belts make noise because of air being forced out of the teeth of the pulley as the belt makes contact. Holes in the contact surface of the pulley greatly reduces the noise, along with correct belt tension as rotorhead mentioned.

 

Hmm. Since I can't find decently priced aluminum pulleys for the FC 13b anyway, I might pick up a gilmer set. (time to dress up the bay, now that the car is tuned)

Izzy, was your gilmer alternator pulley a direct fit to the contour alt? If so, where did you pick up the kit? Also, did you need to scribe new timing marks in?

 

no gillys come marked that I know of. they are a pain in the **** to time cars with them fitted. I have both a 12a & 13b "reference" pulleys I use with 5deg marks all the way out to 25btdc

 

and they generate a **** ton of heat. the amount of heat they transfer back info the alternator is incredible. they have wrecked. many people's alternators over the years.

 

.

 

If you buy the 17mm alt pulley kit, it is a direct swap. And yes, I scribed my timing marks over onto the gilmer drive setup

 

So If I am understanding this to use the contour alternator....
we need
1995-1998 Ford Contour 2.0l alternator.
Large frame 3G, 130 amps
the pigtail.
Spacers
A longer bolt
A smog pump bracket?


anything else?
(alternator seems to be going out. making a shopping list)

 

Pretty much.

 

If you don't have the smog bracket, you can use a universal alternator adjuster bracket and cut it down and drill your own hole. That's what I did, it was a Mr. Gasket 9851 bracket, it's chrome, I and going to sand blast the chrome off and paint it black or something low key.

 

will the s5 pulley fit the concourse alternator?

 

No, it would need to be bored out to 17mm.
(S4 and S5 pulleys are both 15mm.)

 

no, the s5 pulley had too small of an inside diameter hole to fit on the alt shaft. You could always drill the pulley to 17mm, or you can just but the proper alt pulley. Any of the v-belt pulleys that fit a fd alt should work

 

Details on the pulley I used:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati.../#post11958740

 

So here I am revisiting this again. I cant seem to get my Taurus alt to give enough of a hoot at idle with loads on. At 1200rpms it doesnt mater what I turn on. It charges fine. So I am trying to figure out what it is I need to do to remedy this. My alternator pulley diameter is just over 2.5 inches. All other pulleys on my s4 are stock or so I assume. Do I need to go to a bigger or smaller pulley? Or do I have something else fishy in this new alternator?

 

if you blip the throttle to 3k does it start to charge? if so you may have a bad regulator

 

The alternator charges. Dont get me wrong. Its when i put loads to it. Ie lights and my electric fan. That it wont hold enough *** till its around 1200 or higher. And on the stock ecu it doesnt like to hold a 1200 rpm steady idle.

 

More details required:

Where are the volts measured, battery, alternator post, oem dash meter?

Volts at idle? hot or cold?

volts at (rpm) speed? Hot or cold.

 

Just in case anyone was curious.... I tested amp draw on both Ford Taurus efan speeds. Low speed pulls 24 or so at start up and drops to a continuous 10-12 amps. The high speed pull 45 or so amps at start up and drops to about 25 amps continous.

 

Is anyone else experiencing voltage drops when turning on the headlights or hitting the rear defroster? When i start the car my volts are at 14 ish. However, applying the mentioned loads drops the output to around 13.5. This goes back up to 14 when the revs increase.

Normally, this wouldn't bug me. Buttttttt.... This is also affecting my AFR'S. When the voltage drops, my afr leans out by a decent amount. This tells me the low voltage is effectively messing with my ignition. No Bueno.

 

I get a voltage drop to 13.5v for a split second after i turn something on, but it goes right back up to 14.5 by itself. Not sure why yours goes back up as RPM increases.

 

Sorry, should of clarified. Voltage only drops for a second as well. I goes back up right after OR if the revs are brought up.

I think I may need to make some corrections to my battery fuel map in order to avoid my wandering afr