130 Amp Alternator Sweetness
09-22-08, 10:03 AM
#102
No airpump and no P/S?
I can't do without A/C and I have emissions testing in Dallas, but I admit the serpentine belt is attractive option.
Post some pics? Thanks Rob.
09-22-08, 10:12 AM
#103
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I just wanted to do a quick follow-up on this thread, cause I'm interested in it...
A local shop uses Nissan Maxima alternators for most imports as a high output set-up.
I did a quick search on eBay, and theres models listed from 130A, 140A, and 160A.
Prices are from $70 - $130.
The plug *looks* like it's the same as the S5 / FD one.
The problem is the pulley - it looks like they use multi-ribbed serpentine belts.
-Ted
A local shop uses Nissan Maxima alternators for most imports as a high output set-up.
I did a quick search on eBay, and theres models listed from 130A, 140A, and 160A.
Prices are from $70 - $130.
The plug *looks* like it's the same as the S5 / FD one.
The problem is the pulley - it looks like they use multi-ribbed serpentine belts.
-Ted
09-22-08, 10:59 AM
#104
I have one ribbed belt that runs alt/waterpump, and another that runs AC
I have no PS or air pump.
I dont have a picture of the final AC set up yet because the bracket is getting re-powdercoated after the machinist finished modifying it to mount a FD compressor to it. Im using a PS delete bracket from a S4 car, and finally a FD tensioner.
If you are not using AC, PS, or air pump there are couple of people selling aftermarket ribbed pulley set ups. I got these pulleys from a cosmo engine I sold someone, but I ended up only using the crank and waterpump pulleys, the alternator came with its ribbed pulley already.
I have this picture, but it shows the S4 v-belt AC set up still, we are finishing the FD upgrade this week, should have pictures later in the week.
I can now ditch the 2 V-belt pulleys from the crank, a cosmo uses v-belt AC so thats why I still had them on there, originally thought I was going to keep v-belt S4 AC set up.
I have no PS or air pump.
I dont have a picture of the final AC set up yet because the bracket is getting re-powdercoated after the machinist finished modifying it to mount a FD compressor to it. Im using a PS delete bracket from a S4 car, and finally a FD tensioner.
If you are not using AC, PS, or air pump there are couple of people selling aftermarket ribbed pulley set ups. I got these pulleys from a cosmo engine I sold someone, but I ended up only using the crank and waterpump pulleys, the alternator came with its ribbed pulley already.
I have this picture, but it shows the S4 v-belt AC set up still, we are finishing the FD upgrade this week, should have pictures later in the week.
I can now ditch the 2 V-belt pulleys from the crank, a cosmo uses v-belt AC so thats why I still had them on there, originally thought I was going to keep v-belt S4 AC set up.
09-24-08, 05:31 PM
#106
Hmmm...my S5 alternator will retro onto the S4 TII (w/slight rewire). Free upgrade!
09-25-08, 02:11 AM
#107
Probably not. I have an 88 TII out back under a cover, but I really haven't looked at that aspect. If the FD is tight, the Taurus alt probably isn't going to fit with my mounting method.
Hmmm...my S5 alternator will retro onto the S4 TII (w/slight rewire). Free upgrade!
Hmmm...my S5 alternator will retro onto the S4 TII (w/slight rewire). Free upgrade!
10-09-08, 10:55 PM
#108
Here is a brand new Taurus fan, lifetime warranty ISO9000 rated manufacturer for $89.99 shipped.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91...spagenameZWDVW
]
Lifetime warranty.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91...spagenameZWDVW
]
Lifetime warranty.
but thats not what people do, they get one from the junkyard. I also do not see any specifications for that ebay fan?
The ISO thing does not impress me at all, I deal with warranty claims from companies with ISO ratings all the time for products that cost ALOT more then a fan, products that cost more then our houses, and these are real bonehead errors.
The ISO thing does not impress me at all, I deal with warranty claims from companies with ISO ratings all the time for products that cost ALOT more then a fan, products that cost more then our houses, and these are real bonehead errors.
Would any of you guys feel better if you paid Summitt bucks for the exact same fan sold on Ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91...spagenameZWDVW
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Interesting that Summit Racing has picked up the entire line of Dorman OEM replacement fans-and they are charging premium prices for these fans.
10-11-08, 10:14 AM
#109
got the AC back on, now using a FD AC compressor and belt tensioner, FD alternator, and cosmo pulleys- but it was by no means a bolt on modification. AC bracket is from a power steering delete FC
Still have to get the AC lines made, I probably wont bother for now and do it over the winter months.
10-11-08, 12:31 PM
#110
[QUOTE=Rob XX 7;8629014]got the AC back on, now using a FD AC compressor and belt tensioner, FD alternator, and cosmo pulleys- but it was by no means a bolt on modification. AC bracket is from a power steering delete FC
Still have to get the AC lines made, I probably wont bother for now and do it over the winter months.
Very nice. I am impressed.
Since the tensioner is from a PS delete kit, could you have actually used a power steering pump in that spot?
Still have to get the AC lines made, I probably wont bother for now and do it over the winter months.
Very nice. I am impressed.
Since the tensioner is from a PS delete kit, could you have actually used a power steering pump in that spot?
10-11-08, 01:05 PM
#111
the tensioner is from a FD, the bracket is from a TII with no PS
I did not try a PS/AC bracket from a FD because I am not using PS. With a good manual rack you dont need PS with these cars, they feel great witout PS.
If I wanted PS and ribbed belts I would say to give a FD bracket a shot, you may have to modify it to bolt up and have the belts line up.
On my bracket 2 bolts lined up with the AC compressor, and 2 did not. So extra material was welded where needed and then drilled and tapped so that the AC compressor can bolt up.
I did not try a PS/AC bracket from a FD because I am not using PS. With a good manual rack you dont need PS with these cars, they feel great witout PS.
If I wanted PS and ribbed belts I would say to give a FD bracket a shot, you may have to modify it to bolt up and have the belts line up.
On my bracket 2 bolts lined up with the AC compressor, and 2 did not. So extra material was welded where needed and then drilled and tapped so that the AC compressor can bolt up.
11-10-08, 09:38 PM
#118
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hi guys...
dont know if this has been posted yet but -
i got onto an awesome site on the net that do custom alternators as well.
i asked them about my car. i've got a 1990 Mazda Luce with factory 13bt configuration.
i used the same version rx7 alt description that i knew is the same as my Luce alt.
cause sure as **** as soon as i said Luce i would have got a HUH?? lol
they are here - http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/
question i asked -
answer -
so there is another option for you you guys. you just need to stipulate what model your car is. for the 1989 boys where the change in wiring configuration happened to the rx7 alternator you will need to state its early or late 1989 model
hope this helps
dont know if this has been posted yet but -
i got onto an awesome site on the net that do custom alternators as well.
i asked them about my car. i've got a 1990 Mazda Luce with factory 13bt configuration.
i used the same version rx7 alt description that i knew is the same as my Luce alt.
cause sure as **** as soon as i said Luce i would have got a HUH?? lol
they are here - http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/
question i asked -
what do you have as an upgrade for a gen 2 rx7 (89-91) alternator.
We can provide a direct replacement alternator that will use the same mounts, use the same belt and connect with your factory wiring harness, just need to upgrade B+ to the higher amps. It is a 200 amp alternator that will provide about 110 amp at idle. The cost for this unit is $475.00 (this is US dollars). We would need 5 working days to build this for you. Let us know if you have any other questions. Thanks for the inquiry.
so there is another option for you you guys. you just need to stipulate what model your car is. for the 1989 boys where the change in wiring configuration happened to the rx7 alternator you will need to state its early or late 1989 model
hope this helps
11-13-08, 05:29 PM
#123
sorry, I got called into a meeting earlier so i couldn't finish my post... anyhow, those pictures are of a stock S4 alt Vs. the 3G alternator from the Ford Tempo. It is the same alternator in the picture posted below. The dual sheave pulley does not line up and requires the modification of the waterpump housing boss to fit... basically you have to machine off about 3/8th +/- of an inch of material in order for it to line up... however, if you opt for the 13b-re multi groove pulley's instead it should line up with no modifications to the waterpump housing
11-14-08, 06:42 AM
#124
I think the key to this is that the alternator is new. It hasn't been abused or overloaded yet. Probably wouldn't have the same success with a used/abused alt off the FD thread-but then, who knows.
I am extremely pleased with the performance of my Taurus alternator to date. Like your setup, everything works and the volts don't vary. Just for kicks, I should hook up my meter through the cig lighter just to verify the actual volts, instead of looking at the 19 year old volt meter on the dash. I assume you got your voltage from the datalogger of your Haltech(?)?
11-14-08, 07:06 AM
#125
I get it from the wolf dash controller, but my stock 20 year old gauge reads the same, just not with a digital display.
The alternator came tested over 100amps, I forget what it was now- getting old sucks, I do know it was over 110 amps, seem to be thinking like 120?
I also have the battery in the trunk with 0 gauge to the dist. box under the hood.
The alternator came tested over 100amps, I forget what it was now- getting old sucks, I do know it was over 110 amps, seem to be thinking like 120?
I also have the battery in the trunk with 0 gauge to the dist. box under the hood.