Hey guys!

Turned the boost up to 16psi and its an airplane. Made this vid at 13-14psi, showing the blast pipes!

Hope you guys are well

 

 

 

Hey brother,
What king of front cover you are using?
In trying to reinstall my a/c but don't know the front cover to source the rest.
Thank you.

 

hey dude that's the factory front cover for 20b

 

Thank you,
Can I use the fd air compressor bracket to bolt in this front cover?

 

Im unsure what you're asking WCR.

This is the OEM 20b cover, the RX7 (3rd Gen) Waterpump housing and waterpump, alternator bracket, alternator will bolt right up. However, I'm unsure of the airpump, power steering and A/C, although looks like they will bolt right up on the right side studs.

 

Thank you.

 

Thankyou to all those who followed/helped/participated in this thread.

The car sold two weeks ago for a great price to a cool guy. I sure do miss her.

But, today im picking up the next chassis, a black roller

PPRE 4 rotor Peripheral Port Turbo engine is on order. Things should hopefully be getting involved in a few months. Until then wish you guys well.

 

wow!if this build wasn't serious enough. new build will be crazy! look forward to seeing your new thread and thanks for investing a small fortune into our NZ economy lol.

 

Turbo 4 rotor PP????? Damn! Your gonna love the noise that thing is gonna make. Me personally, I wanna stick a 4 rotor into an SL-C Superlite.

 

I was debating on selling my car to join david on his 4 rotor journey and build a 4 rotor SLC but they look too much like a kit to me. I want something that looks more exotic.

 

Chassis is in.

Stripped the whole thing down, removed ALL of the interior, all the engine bay components and cut out/threw out the entire 100lbs worth of body harness wiring. O gosh this is gonna be fun wiring up later

Off to kirk racing for full cage on Dec 21st

A few buddies are going to assist in setting up a paint booth inside this storage unit and we're going to paint the entire car inside out. Paint beginning on Jan 1st hopefully.

I will start a build thread once I get further along and have some more substance! Goal is to be looking like a car by April

Immediate goal is lock down a solution to the transmission options. HOPING to get g-force to make an adapter plate to use Manual bellhousing and a GTO transmission, so a clutch-direct rx7 side triple plate / osgiken combination or exedy triple can be utilized w/ rx7 high output starter. Seems people only use the reverse mount starter/auto bellhousing w/ LSX size clutch

 

Consider the 350z trans?

I'm getting the first 13b/20b to 350z/370z transmission adaptor plate. I'll be doing s review and info thread regarding it.

The 2j community do the 350 trans to the 2j swap. The cd009 and newer trans are known to hold over 1000whp.

 

What are you expectations for this thing in terms of balance? Moving the firewall I assume?

 

Motor will go on stock subframe, definitely do not want to move the rack again. Special oil pan being fabbed, and intercooler setup is going to be a crazy thing...can't give out to many details just yet

4 rotor FYI is only a few lbs heavier and couple inches longer than 3 rotor. This car is so gutted that I don't believe weight will be a concern, yes it may be a little front heavy, but shouldn't feel much different from the 20b swap.

 

Yea this looks like a good option, but will require buying an auto trans for the bellhousing and auto starter. Basically looks like the same ordeal as t56 but if it fits the trans tunnel, I'd be down!

 

I was told it is snug. Also, the shop told me that "I have a relocated shifter that fits exactly 31 inches which is exactly from the back of the firewall to the center of the shifter hole."


The auto bell housing is only for use of the all of the holes on the 20b rear iron. I will confirm if he manual bell housing will work too.

 

It appears the auto is used so that the auto starter can be used at least that's on the t56. The auto starter mounts forward. So I'm assuming it dooesnt clear the trans case in manual format. Which sucks, because auto starter cannot be upgraded to the 2kw version.

 

I'm incredulous. Nevertheless, I'm sure it will be a beast. Good luck with the project.

 

Keep in mind reusing the stock subframe naturally mounts the engine higher. This makes it harder to push it back because any bellhousing you use will hit the firewall sooner. Tilting the engine may be the only option. Auto bellhousing is VERY bulky. It's also an inch longer than the Fc bellhousing. Fc style manuel bellhousing will be the way to go. Several years ago when my 20b was out, I actually tried to test for a 4 rotor in my bay with my engine already moved back 5 1/2". My rack is in the stock location and it still may need lowering to fit a 4 rotor. Good luck!

 

Ok, so here's some more details to clear this up:

According to Warren at PPRE, the engine will use 13b-rew motor mounts/arms and bolt directly to the stock subframe as an OEM rx7 engine. This means that auto bellhousing, manual bellhousing will sit in the exact same location along w/ the rear iron of the engine block.

This leaves only there more concerns. Forward clearance of the motor, oil pan clearance with steering rack in way, and height clearance of the intake manifold.

1. the intake manifold is being designed, 4 runners for peripheral ports into intake collector with throttle body, the height is taken into account so as to clear the hood. Unlike having to cut the 20b LIM to clear hood on stock subframe users.

2. the forward length of the motor isn't much longer as the fat iron no longer utilized. This won't be an issue, radiator will be placed identical to last FD. EWP will be utilized etc

3. oil pan is being designed with two pieces which will be connected via -12an lines to equalize sump level between front and back. This two piece design will allow sump behind and in front of the steering rack, so as to not need to lower the rack and change steering geometry.

^I may consider using a dry sump, but I find its unnecessary and overblown with claims. The car isn't going to be raced at high rpm for seasons on end on a race track and adequate oil pressure shouldn't be an issue as each iron will be externally fed.


Thanks man!

Ahh don't wanna give away the details to much yet!

 

I think in mean time, I'll focusing on building the car with a stock trans, but have the engine constructed with auto rear iron so that its always adaptable to auto trans/reverse starter if swapped.

Going to wait and see how the results go on fitment of the CD009 before pulling trigger on that. Also, I do not like how the auto starter cannot be upgraded.

Also considering using the green brother racing kit or addicted performance kit for TKO600, but the TKO600 needs to be faceplated to shift at 10k.

Liberty is unfortunately moving and is closed until around March-April, so waiting on transmission rebuild is not in the plans.

There's one guy out there, Neal Adderley with a T56 using manual starter/bellhousing and he loves it, but it was modified by g-force. G-force created the plate and shaved the trans/starter/bellhousing to work correctly. Waiting for more details on this method.

The good thing is buying an Exedy Triple Plate will allow some good power until stock trans explodes, but discs can easily be replaced with 26-spline, or etc for trans swap.

At this point, there's too much speculation and no surefire trans swap that I trust to invest the cash into testing out until the car is running and moving on its own power first.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-p...-gears-481549/

Anyone have any thoughts on these gear sets by os giken?

In japan, this is reportedly the option for high horsepower FD's. These can be sourced for under 4k, drop right into the trans. Sounds like a problem solver.

 

if you want some first hand knowledge of the TKO600 get hold of Richard Green from Green Brother's down here in NZ. they ran the TKO500 behind the wagon. I had a in depth conversations about the options for my fc. I will be going with there steel fabricated bellhousing and a modified (from liberty) TKO600. I don't need 10000 rpm shifts so I didn't ask how they shift that high. but apparently when they have had the upgrades they do shift nice. I didnt consider the face plated upgrade as It takes away the street aspect for my application.

anyways I posted a link in the fd gearbox upgrade thread with the new Dellow conversion bellhousings for TKO box.

your new whip going to be a animal! good times ahead.