When they go bad. It all depends on if you're running crappy cheap plugs, you're driving style, mods. there is no number to give you some can last as long as 100K miles, and some will last 2k. I replace mine when the electrode begins to show ware, if the porcelin begins to show spider cracks, or if they foul. Ngk's BR8EQ in a stock engine can last as long as 20k, but in a modded street port that sees track time could go bad in 1000 miles. My car gets driven very hard and B8EGV's last me about 15k. On my turbo car I had B9EGV's last me 20k where as I'd eat a FC plug in 5000 miles.

 

Why such a small gap? I've always run my EGV's between about 3 and 4 thou without a problem. That's with a standard TII ignition system. I can understand closing the gap if you're running a lot of boost or rpm to prevent missfiring but .02 seems small for most applications. Is it because you're running a dizzy?

 

So i just put some new NGK BR7ET plugs in my 79' rex and it has a really rough idle would undertightening/overtightening have anything to do with this? Before it used to idle at about 1000 RPM and it was somewhat smooth.. Any ideas?

 

i have the ngk br8eq-14 for my 1984 rx-7 and it idels at 850and bounces to 1000rpm. there is a tourk setting for the spark plugs. how many lbs. is a ? for some1 else to answer. also make shure u checed your gap and that some one did not drop it on the head to close the gap. and if u saved you old spak plugs put them back to c if it runs back smoth with your1000 idle and if so some thing up with that new plugs u got. good luck

 

Weird those plugs shouldn't have caused you any issues. They are stock SA plugs... Maybe you got a bad one.

 

I'm bringing this back from the dead Hyper because I want an answer. You recommended gapping the EGV spark plugs at 0.020" but never said why. I'm planning on using these plugs in my 1985 GS, and want to know why you recommend such a small gap. As REVHED says above, I'm more familiar with using a 0.040" gap. Why so small?

Thanks,
Jamie

 

I like BR8EQ-14 in trailing and BUR7EQ in leading with DLIDFIS. These are the best spark plugs for me.

 

That was what I ran in my in my turbo car and it worked so I stuck with it. With the high combustion pressures under boost it makes it harder for the plug to jump the gap, so the easy way to fix that instead of upgrading the ignition is to lower the gap. All I run are Rx-8 plugs now. They look just like the racing plugs everyone runs they're platinum and iridium and they're $10 cheaper than the race plugs. The general rule is to go with as big of a gap as you can run without getting spark blowout. Some people get away with .06 some don't. I never wanted to fiddle with it so I just stuck with always worked flawlessly. Oh and one time I tried all B9EGV's then swapped out the leadign plugs to Rx-8 Plugs on the Dyno and saw not one loss or gain in WHP. I stick with the Rx-8 leading plugs because they've lasted in my engine longer than anything else. I cant get stock FC plugs to last more than an oil change where as the EGV's will last 5-10k. I've had the Rx-8 plugs in for the better part of a year now and maybe 15-20k, they still look new.

Try .06 if it works gr8 if you get spark blowout close the gap little by little until it goes away. If you're right on the cusp of blowout the plugs are likely to foul quicker.

 

Hey Hyper.

Always good to see you post up info as you always do your homework and provide the members with some very good information.

When you were having your Dyno's done up here where did you have them done and how much was it costing you?

 

I'd either go to Intec Racing or Drift Office. When I was younger I would use a mobile dyno, TNT I believe was the name, but I have no idea if they're still around. My old car club used them whenever we hosted an event. I prefer not to discuss pricing, but there were plenty of dyno days held at both locations with great pricing. I believe both shops charge right around $100 an hour for rental and you can tune to your hears content. You'd be amazed how much tuning and runs you can get done in an hour. I could do a run, change jets, and make another pull run all in less than 3 minutes.

here you go. this is what I'm running in the leading now
NGK Racing plug 6700 RE7CL .048 Leading $20.55
as opposed to the Rb recomended
NGK Racing plug 3342 R6725-10 $33.82

now I don't know if I'd make more power with them or not. All I know is at 12.7:1 AFR's and 27*BTDC timing I wasn't detonating and made 189WHP with the stock Rx-8 Plug and the exact same thing with the BR9EIX, so I'd be willing to GUESS that the extra $24 wont get me ****. Especially considering how amazing the reliability on the Rx8 plugs has been. I would've replaced the EIX's twice by now.

EDIT: Just realized when I said EGV earlier I meant EIX. I havent seen and EGV since like 2008. I like the EIX's better, as they last longer. Not to mention EGV's do not have a resistor and from my experience if you run an ignition box they hate resistor-less plugs.

 

Wow, those Rx-8 plugs are pricey! I had no idea that they cost that much! So if I want to spring for them, the top of the line plug looks like the Rx-8 leading plug then, the RE7CL. If I decide to cheap out, the BR9EIX will offer similar performance, lower price but a shorter life span.

Am I on track?
Jamie

 

I started looking at this tread to see what plugs to buy for my 85 gsl se, and it seems that most people are saying to use NGk BR8EQ-14's for trailing and BUR7EQ's for leading. I also saw a few people talking about b9egv-L's for trailing and b8egv's for leading. I have new aftermarket wires other than that my ign. system is stock, also I live at 6500ft and travel down 2 sea level ever once and a while, I also go up to 11000ft(road to silverton Co, highway 550). So with all that said what do you guys think? Please correct me anywhere along the way. Please help me out. I think I need to buy 2 sets of plugs, one set for high country and one set for sea level, thats what I'm thinking. Also any input on the plug gap would be good. Thank you.
Spencer

 

Since you are running the stock ignition I recommend that you use the stock plugs in the leading and trailing side which are the BR8EQ-14. There is no gap to set as they are preset. :-)

Altitude has no effect on this.

 

thank you.
Spencer

 

+1000 for NGK

 

ghetto plugs lol thats the funnest thing ive herd in years

 

Well I guess since this is just becoming the all in one spark plug answer thread I'll throw in a curve ball.

Most of what I've been reading has been nothing but 13b talk. So looking at you Hyper, any ideas or info about those RX-8 plugs in a n/a 12a? From the way you make them sound its just too awesome to pass up. I'm mostly asking since my local shop can't get 1st gen plugs for me anymore. Although I could get 2nd or 3rd gen plugs but it'll take a week and about 30 bucks so I'm kinda lost at which way to go.

 

i amaze myself sometimes.

 

Both Denso and NGK plugs are easily available, if not from your local Autozone or similar box store then you can order them from:

http://www.sparkplugwarehouse.com/Sh...=True&rewrite=

Part number 3104 (Denso; $4.62 each) or 2329 (NGK; $5.46 each)

 

If I go to the track I run BR10ES NGK. Both L and T. Otherwise I run stock Denso's, on my Monster Port 12A, Nikki, Wasted Spark MSD etc. etc...

 

just put plugs, wires, cap, and rotor in mine. BR8EQ-14 both L and T. box gives a torque for aluminum of 18-21 lb/ft or hand tight 1/2-2/3 turn.

 

the stock plugs are just as easy to get... but the rx8 leadings are an upgrade.

i'm running rx8 leading/fd trailing in my 12A. i'm running the FD plug cause i had em.

 

Champions!!!...lmao