that and poor idle

 

what type of ngk's do other bridgeport ppl run? I've been using BR8ET.

 

A good rule to follow is to match the plugs to the ignition system. For instance, a direct fire system should use the 2nd gen plugs. I've had great results with BUR7EQ in leading (with DLIDFIS) and BR8EQ-14 in trailing because it's through the cap and rotor. It's in a 13B powered B2000 with GM HEI ignitor modules and NGK plug wires. Oh yeah, stock Diamond and aftermarket Bosch coils too.

 

NGK BR8EQ14s!!
WHAT WHAT!!

 

for a completely stock 12A should I go with the BR9EQ14s or the 8s?

 

really old thread
just quoteing the stupedest idea i have ever had, and the worst post ever

 

Sorry if this is a lame question but I was wondering if there is a certain gap the spark plugs should be at for a 12A. I just got NGK's and I have a rough idle but smooths out after some accelerating past 2700RPM's? If the gap is not the problem, what would be I am lost, There was not much problem before replacing the spark plugs then when they got replaced, there was that rough idle.
Thanks in advance

 

All plugs come pre-gapped. Most plugs suitable for rotary can't be regapped. Basically, 0.050-0.060 is normal for electronic, 0.025-0.030 for points ignition (pre-1981). Don't use gappable single electrode plugs because they can clip the apex seals! Auto Lite 2626 have an annular ring instead of multiple electrodes: interesting, and they seem to work, but now they cost as much as NGKs.

B

 

I JUST CHANGED PLUGS!...HAD NGK STOCK 7&9'S IN ...REPLACED WITH PLATINUM...SO hornbm...I'll let you know how good they are ..car was stumbling a bit before i replaced the plugs and wires ..definitely nothing wrong now.starts good.runs good,and accelerates damn good!..I think I made a good choice..anyone else switch out from regular NGK to platinum? (no thread jack intended)..final note the way that the plug is constucted Iwould not stick a plug with a tab-like electrode in my car ..be afraid it would get pushed into itself ..paranoid.stock plugs look "solid"..nothing sticking off the end

 

NGK. I use them on everything!!!! I own 3 jetskis one of which is a racing ski. Nothing sparks those babys but good ol NGK. Even the lawn mower is NGK. Shoot I should buy stock in them.

 

I have 2GCDFIS (via transistor trick) on my 12a and would highly recommend people to use 2ng gen plugs. Use the br7eq14 on leading and br8eq14 on trailing. I was running 1st gen plugs (br8eq14) on leading and trailing for the first couple days after installing the 2GCDFIS with transistor trick and noticed and incredible improvement when I made the switch to 2nd gen plugs.

 

I run a NGK in my lawnmover motor which is on a gokart that my little brother races. It accually made a feelable difference for a go kart. Just used a little spacer to make it work.

 

NGK B9ES all around gapped to .020

i love the single prong plugs. personally, the worst plugs i've used are the FC stock BUR series plugs. they foul out the fastest and don't have a strong enough spark under boost. the B9's are amazing and ony 1.50 each!!!!!!

 

That is why I run the br7 because they are a hot plug. br9 are a colder spark plug I believe. I have not run a turbo'd vehicle though so I am not familiar or know if they would do better with a hotter or colder plug. $1.50 is better than the $8-9 I pay for the NGK bur7eq plugs. I will stick with what is working for me now seeing as the money has already been spent and I haven't had an issue with fouling.

 

BR7EQ-14 and BR8EQ-14 are both First Gen plugs that are made for capacitive discharge ignitions.

I think you mean BUR7EQ (what second gens use for leading) and BUR9EQ (what second gens use for trailing)

If you're running 2gdfis you DON'T use BR*EQ-14 plugs in leading, because those plugs are meant for the capacitive discharge type of ignition that we use stock. They are not meant for direct fire ignitions.

Continue to use BR8EQ-14s in your trailing, since those go through your distributor, but for the leading you should be using BUR7EQ 2nd gen plugs. Those are made for direct-fire style ignitions.

Alternately, some of the second gen guys are using BR8EIX Iridium Spark Plugs. To install those you need a thin-walled spark plug socket because they have a shorter body and so the part the socket grabs onto hides into that little lip on the rotor housing. These plugs are originally meant for a type of motorcycle and don't have the stock 4-electrode look to them, but the some in the 2nd gen and Canadian sections swear by them.

Jon

 

thats the same style plug i'm using. motrocycle plugs are the jam. i haven't tried the EIX but the only difference from the ES's i'm using now is mine aren't iridium

i'm tellin ya, these plugs made the difference for me.

 

NA high comp, 48IDA, 13b bridge - using these atm

T - b10egv L - b9egv = track
T - b9egv L - b8egv = street

Had to grind the socket to fit.

 

BR7EQ-14 and BR8EQ-14

 

Ngk

 

ngk i use the second gen plugs they work great

 

ok so ngk has a multi spark plug. so what are you refering 2 the standard or the multi spark? what 2 buy?

 

T - b10egv L - b9egv = track na
T - b9egv L - b8egv = street na
FTMFW!

 

NGK's

 

The funniest thing is the "little old blue rotary bible" recommended Champions.

EQ-14's are great for stockers and mild cars.

B9EGV's are an excellent performance plug (also available in 10's, possibly 8's and 11's)They can be used in N/A and Turbo apps. You just have to look for them. Cheap too, around $6 each.

Many owners report good result from using 2nd Gen BUR- plugs in the leading when using the 2nd Gen direct fire mod.

I'd say use what runs best and you can get the best deal on....as you will be replacing them offten-ish.

 

Sounds like something from the '70s, lol. I bet it recommended Fram filters too.

I just removed one of those orange turds today. The anti-drainback valve failed completely. Or maybe it sat long enough to... nah, it failed - it's fram.