i have a fram oil filter on my rx-7 if that is a bad thing tell me why and what should i replace it with?

 

I shouldn't have said anything because it sent this thread off track.

I'm going to buy two sets of NGK BR8EQ-14s and BUR7EQs in the next coming days to get two 4 port 13Bs with direct fire (on leading) up and running. Yep, two more fresh rebuilt 4 port 13Bs to add to my ever growing list. How many has it been now?

 

but what is better the multi spark NGK's or the standard plug NGK's

 

I've always liked the NGKs for obvious reasons, but there are two problems with them:

1. They are getting hard to find

2. They cost $6-7 per plug, around $25 a set

Then I discovered my local Autozone has the Denso plugs (W23EDR14-3104) for $1.29 each, at $5.20 a set that is four Denso plugs for less than the cost of one NGK plug.

At that price, the NGKs need to do something special that the Denso's don't. A visual comparisons of the Denso's and NGKs shows they are virtually the same, if they didn't have their labels you couldn't tell them apart.

And the Denso's match the NGKs I've been using for years in performance and durability, there simply is no way to say one is better than the other. In fact I have heard (from Jeff I think) that Mazda originally recommended Denso's for their rotaries.

So it's kind of like buying OEM instead of after market parts for five times the price. Is being a purist really worth it?

$25 for NGK vs $5.00 for Denso, you decide.

PS. Fram oil filters are just plain ugly. I would replace it with anything that isn't that ugly. In this case Mazda actually sells a really cool looking oil filter that is reasonably priced, probably because they use them on all their cars (my 2002 Mazda Protege5 uses the same filter).

 

Wow! This thread will never die.

I've used NGKs and Densos and Champions. I liked the NGKs best so far but now I have 2GDFIS and need to switch I think to the 2G plugs or do like peejay says and buy autolites and modify them. He claims they work much better than NGKs and you can get them at Walmart cheap cheap cheap. Theres a thread where he describes the mod to the autolite plugs. Its basically cut the electrode down and bend it towards the center of the plug so it clears and gets a good spark. I'll search for the thread.

Heres the thread where he dscribes how to cut them down:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...te#post3012977

 

i got some NGK's installed today. i will let you know how i like it.(BR8EQ-14)

 

I don't know why people recomend FC plugs. they shroud the flame front from the spark. they cause extra stress on the housing and are known to cause the spider webbing on the housing, and they require more voltage to spark with the huge gap they have. It's all about B8es if you're broke and B8ES gapped at.2 and only $2.25 each and B*EGV's for more serious rotaries. The EGV's are only $5.75 each.
www.sparkplugs.com kicks ***

 

And these Denso's cost only $1.29 each, that's $5.16 for a set of four, less than the cost of one NGK. I don't know about you guys, but I'm giving these Denso's a try.

 

Denso beats autolite. Thanks Ray.

 

because both the denso and NGK you posted suck *****!!! they shroud the flame front, they have huge gaps and verry large center electrodes that require more voltage to fire. if your car is stock those plugs will work fine, but if you plan on making power one day you'd ditch the ghetto plugs.

 

Hyper,

So your objection to the NGK and Denso plugs (that they shroud the flame front) would also apply to the Autolite 2626's I favor because they have an annular ground electrode.

I don't recall what the center electrode diameter is, but your point about voltage requirement depending on electrode diameter is well taken.

Very interesting. Because those 2626's seem to work well for me.

 

sparkplugs.com doesn't list those plugs for Denso, but they do list a W27EDR14 for the 85SE at $5.20 each.

Here's a picture of those 2626 plugs that have been working good for me. Apparently autolite lists these for the 88 FCs.

http://www.autolitesparkplugs.com/re...2626&x=61&y=13

 

I've tried those plugs in the link and imho they aren't very good. I had a problem where my car would run fine and then all a sudden just fall on it's face for a few seconds. Then out of nowhere after keeping my foot in it, It would suddenly take off. So I started checking the usual suspect, Cap rotor wires etc. and one of the things I wanted to do was replace the plugs with a set of ngk's. Well as you know they are sometimes hard to find and at the time I worked at a auto parts store so I looked up what was compatible and those showed up(plugs). Heck they were cheap so I said why not and tried them. They didn't cure my ignition problem and after only a few weeks running them the electrode tips were worn down almost like they melted/erroded on one side. It may have been my particular situation but out of all the plugs i've tried those were the only to exhibit that problem.

As for the denso's pictured earlier I have tried those and couldn't tell a dicernable difference in performance vs. the NGK's.

 

I run B9EGV's all around. The only way to go on any serious application.

 

Book:
Easiest way to break it doen is this. All your ignition does is create a spark. That spark then ignites the gass and air mixture. That initial ingition is called the flame front or flame curnel. You want to minimize all possibilities that that initial spark doesn't happen, and minimize all restriction of the initial flame front from reaching the rest of the air and fuel in the cubustion chamber. Since were rotards we can't change things like the shape of the quench area or the cubustion chamber we have to maximise on the little things that we can change. Like getting the biggest flame front we can by not using shrouded plugs like the stock SA, FB, FC, or FD plugs. Mazda finally figured it out. Look at the FE(Rx8) plugs. They look a lot more like a normal plug but with a tiny ground strap. That's why high horsepower guys stick to single ground plugs. Next is to minimize the voltage required to jump that gap at the plug. A large electrode, the actual gap size, and the more air and fuel crammed into the cumbustion chamber the more voltage required to let the spark jump that gap. Since the goal is more air and fuel for that bigger bang that's one thing we won't minimize. That leaves to easy fixes. Gap and center electrode. Since the stock 7 plugs cannot be gapped that throwes them all out the window. So we look for a similar plug in a similar heat range with 1 ground strap to not shroud the flame front and to allow us to gap the plug down to .2. We find the B8ES, and you decide that you want a smaller electrode. Go with the B8EGV. remember heat ranges all varry depending on port size, turbo supercharged or na, and street or track car. 7=hotter 9= colder. the hotter plug the less likely it will fowl from rich situations, but the more likely it can get too hot under load and cause detonation.

 

Well OK, but I still like my Denso's. $1.29 each at the local AutoZone and they work just fine in my 12A powered 84/85 GSLs.

 

That small gap of .020 (I assume ".2" was a typo) means you have a very narrow flame front, as opposed to the common .060. Is that OK?

 

.020

 

i have a question, i usually look at import tunner magazine, and i saw this add about pulse plugs, they were supposed to be a lot stronger than spark plugs and what not, i was wondering if any of you had tried them or if they even have them for rotaries....it'll be something cool to look into if nothing else.

Edit= Nevermind guys, i was trying to look up more info about them and even went to their website pulstarplug.com and got the phone number from them, anyways i called and i asked if they were safe to use in rotary engines, their exact response was "uh yeah, no, we do not recommend them for those engines, sorry" ..... anyways, seem like a cool thing to have for piston engines tho .

 

WORD! I just picked some for extras at $5.00 flat! So I bought 4 sets!

 

Those plugs fugging suck. You either want a long strong spark or multipule short sparks. The capasitor idea in nology wires or this pulse plug thing is pure crap and will not yeild any real world HP. They supposedly store power longer to produce a stronger shorter spark which is opposite of what you want. Also those pictures that they post showing the differences in spark and how much brighter their spark is has little to no relivance in an engine where pressure's are hundreds to thoudands of times higher than they are in ambiant atmosphere. Yes the Rags saw power gains, but were the old plugs in good working order? Was the first dyno run done on a heat soaked engine in the hottest part of the day and the second done in the cool evening. Remember mags and TV shows get paid to test parts for companies, so the results may vary. I can't find the link, but Magna core had an amazing write up on ignition parts and miths. they basically put to death all the tuner myths and legonds that have spawned.
I think I'm going to shut up now cause I'm sure everyone is tiard of my rants, but so here are my suggestions

Turbo powwa:
L B9EGV T B10EGV
NA TRACK:
L B8EGV T B9EVG
NA steet cheap:
L B7ES T B9ES

 

well i was just curious as to if anyone had TRIED them, but when i called she informed me that they are not safe for rotaries so i said screw it. anyways i wasn't wanting to start an argument nor anything, thanks for the info, but i was just wondering what some people that have actually used them found them to be, not just what people may think about them. i'm sure i can get great and shitty opinions about the same product depending on who i talk to, but i'm only gonna trust someone that's already tried it. anyways, those plugs aren't going anywhere near my 7 since the factory doesn't even recommend them for rotaries :P

 

yep I'd go with the densos or NGKs.

 

All I can say is that pulse technology is a gimmick that's why you don't see nology on anything but rice cars...
Oh and stay away from irridium plugs. I know Racing beat recomends them, but there are plenty of people who have run them who have had the electrode fall right out due to rotary cumbustion tempratures since they are so small and there is barely anything holding them in. I'm sure they'd be fine for NA applications, but turbo temps seem to be too much for them. Plus why pay $4 more per plug for something that has never had a complaint. EGV's for the mother fudging win.

 

..just out of curiosity i should know this but i don't so ...sorry :P, how often should spark plugs be changed? ...(i know stupid question what not, but i don't know a definite time besides when they are completely worn out, or broken, or if the car has been sitting for a long long time lol)