sorry just wanna clarify what type of oil i should use..

sythentic or non..

thanx heaps guys.. i love the forum

 

Non senthetic,

Brand is up to you.

I wil throw another hint for you ..
On N/A engines you dont need to run anything above 87 octane

It helps burn the gas better and will keep the carbon build up down,So will premixing.

 

thanx

 

totally agree...non-synthetic!!!

synthetic oils tend to prematurely break down engines seals

 

I have no personal experience using synth, but I've many times heard that it's not good for our engines and Mazda doesn't recommend it. But... in the same breath, I have to say I've heard quite a few people say they use it and swear by it.

Personally? I doubt the benefit, if any, is worth risking the chance. I'll stick with dead organic matter, thank you.

On the other hand, when I change gearbox fluids I plan to go synth...

 

ok so whats the answer synth or non synth?

 

@4.-$5. a Quart on a oil consuming engine is not really good when you can get Discout Auto parts store special,I think Havoline makes it Havoline or Vavoline,
For 20/50 for under a $1.00 a qrt is fine with me.

 

NON-SYNTH!!!!

Edit: Sorry, didn't mean to yell. Non-synth is your best bet for engine oil, kiddo.

 

thanx

 

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Originally posted by rotor vs. piston
Why do I keep reading that people are or are going to run synthitic in their engines. You should never, I repeat NEVER run syn. in a rotory engine.
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Absolutely RIGHT. Yet, on a german forum, there was a poll, and I was the only one (!) using high quality mineral oil!!! So again, all you synthetic oil users: check Mazdatrix site, and the Racing Beat catalog. These guys know something about rotaries, right? Well, they clearly state that only very few synthetic oils can do the job in a rotary, and therefor it's better no to take the risk and simply use (good) mineral oil. For those of you too lazy to search: it comes down to the fact that the rotary engine MUST burn oil (as it's injected into the engine, and mixed with the fuel). Most synthetics burn very badly, leaving a lot of left overs. These can clodge up about everything. So quit using that stuff please!

 

That was taken from another post ~two days ago.

 

OK about the Synthetic oil, that is really completly up to you. There are some lower grade synthetics that will not burn in the combustion chambers, but there are very high grae synthetics (also very expensive) that will burn clean.
I personally use Redline Synthetic, and will continue to use it. It is not cheap at all though, but with the added engine protection from heat and wear I feel it is worth it.
I will be rebuilding my motor in august and will tell you all what it looks like inside. If I see not so good things inside, I will imedietly discontune use, but till then Redline all the way!!

Again I think it is completly up to you. If you choose to use synthetic, than stay far away from the cheaper brands I.E. Castrol, Valvoline, Pennziol. I would stick to Royal Purple or Redline. Not sure about the price on the Royal Purple, but the Redline is $8.00 a Quart (not cheap.

 

Just FYI Racing Beat sells synthetic oil for the engines...
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=11961

~T.J.

 

The general concensus seems to be no synth because it doesn't burn as well as mineral based oils. But what if you disabled the OMP and pre-mixed. Would that make it safe(r) to run synth?

 

Here's a little nugget that I got from an asciote (sp) that race's sevens. He said that you should change the oil in rotaries every 2000 miles.

I guess it really depends on what method the oil is getting into the housings.

1: OMP = I believe you should only use the stuff out of the ground.

2: Premix = Run what your heart desires.

3: If it's Fuel Injected and you premix, every now and again your going to want to run some injector cleaner.

 

Sorry I'm about to fall asleep. But the point about the 2000mile oil change is that the cost will kick your *** if your on a budget. Like I said before though, I think it really depends on your oiling method.

 

I'm sure that would do the trick, but you may not need to do it. According to the link T.J. gave us, Racing Beat doesn't just sell Royal Purple for rotaries, they actually recommend it.

I'm sure there are as many opinions concerning syth vs. mineral as there are members out there.

Me? I'll just stick with my Castrol 15w40. Used it for 18 years, gonna use it for another 18...

Sorry, Timmy - bet you're really pulling your hair out now and saying "WTF? - Will you guys make up your minds? What kind should I use?" Up to you, kiddo. Regular oil is the safest bet, imo. But there'll always be those who argue with that.

 

By the way, I brought this very topic up a while ago...
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ight=synthetic

~T.J.

 

First: Rotor vs piston :" That was taken from another post ~two days ago." Thanks for quoting me

And then for TJ, I know they do. You should just take the time to read the whole explaination... They clearly state that most synthetics aren't good, some are acceptable, but not worth the extra money. And then there's that very special (expensive) brand they sell themself, according to RB it's specially for Rotary Engines... So it's not really "just a synthetic"...
Boys and girls: either use good mineral, or maybe that stuff RB sells. Just don't do any experiments with oils...
The wrong oil will f**k up the engine.
I don't understand why we keep having that discussion every couple of days...