Removing Dowel pins and Intermediate Housing
Removing Dowel pins and Intermediate Housing
I am pulling apart a 12a engine and I am encountering difficulties when it comes to removing the intermediate housing from the front rotor housing.
I can lift it off a bit but it refuses to come past the lobe on the ecentric shaft.
The booko says it should just lift off and that just ain't happening.
How do i go about removing the intermediate housing form the rest of the motor? I have the end housing, the rear rotor housing off and I am stuck at this part.
please help!!!
thanks in advance,
cheers'
I can lift it off a bit but it refuses to come past the lobe on the ecentric shaft.
The booko says it should just lift off and that just ain't happening.
How do i go about removing the intermediate housing form the rest of the motor? I have the end housing, the rear rotor housing off and I am stuck at this part.
please help!!!
thanks in advance,
cheers'
Um no don't try it that way. You really should have another person there to help on this part so you don't hurt anything. Someone needs to lift the intermediate housing up a few inches at the same time someone else lifts the eccentric shaft from below. At this point you can take and rotate the intermediate housing around the e-shaft lobe to get it out. When it is off, the e-shaft can be lowered back down.
Can you thread in a 12x1.5 bolt into the dowel pins and try to coax them out? Once they're out, it's a lot easier.
Also, try setting the engine flat on the ground without the oil pan. I've had good results leaving the E shaft in the intermdiate housing while pulling off everything else first. Then it's easy to get the shaft out.
Also, try setting the engine flat on the ground without the oil pan. I've had good results leaving the E shaft in the intermdiate housing while pulling off everything else first. Then it's easy to get the shaft out.
Originally posted by rotarygod
Um no don't try it that way. You really should have another person there to help on this part so you don't hurt anything. Someone needs to lift the intermediate housing up a few inches at the same time someone else lifts the eccentric shaft from below. At this point you can take and rotate the intermediate housing around the e-shaft lobe to get it out. When it is off, the e-shaft can be lowered back down.
Um no don't try it that way. You really should have another person there to help on this part so you don't hurt anything. Someone needs to lift the intermediate housing up a few inches at the same time someone else lifts the eccentric shaft from below. At this point you can take and rotate the intermediate housing around the e-shaft lobe to get it out. When it is off, the e-shaft can be lowered back down.
thats how i do it. worked fine for me. definately couldnt do it alone
Originally posted by Jeff20B
Also, try setting the engine flat on the ground without the oil pan. I've had good results leaving the E shaft in the intermdiate housing while pulling off everything else first. Then it's easy to get the shaft out.
Also, try setting the engine flat on the ground without the oil pan. I've had good results leaving the E shaft in the intermdiate housing while pulling off everything else first. Then it's easy to get the shaft out.
thats how I have been doing it. rear, then front, then slide the e-shaft out of the center plate.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: North Atlanta, GA
Especially after a lot of miles all of the housings are just stuck together. I use a few screw drivers and carefully work my way around. If you don't be too carefull than you might damage the rotor housing and the edges. And defenetly have someone else help you to lift up e-shaft when intermediate plate is about to come off, just saves you a lot of messing around that way.
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You can screw a bolt into the pins easily and devise a method of removal. Mazda has a dowel pin puller which is nothing more than a slide hammer that screws into the dowel pins.
I've devised a really great dowel pin extractor. It involves a stack of washers, an old dual sheave pulley, and a bolt from an FB rearend because it has the correct thread pitch. It works every time.
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