Reworked all of the chassis wiring this weekend. What a pain in the ***.













Finally done. Next up, finishing the braided line assembly.

 

Swwet misssed you at the autocross but if you was working on the car Its all good. Get it up and running to we all can see and hear this bad boy.

 

Yea, I really wanted to go but I've literally spent every waking moment this weekend in the garage. My goal is to fire it up next weekend since I've got three days and hopefully all the parts I need. Although, my MAP sensor appears to be AWOL and I have no clue where my oil temp sensor is. More overnight parts from Japan!

 

Looking awesome, if it's possible could you take a picture of your 3/4" box steel transmission mounts? I'm interested in seeing exactly how you fitted it, and a picture is worth a million words.

This is a build i'm really keeping close tabs on, keep us updated as you progress more!

 

I will be on the same wagon in a few months

SUBSCRIBED!

 

sweetness

 

 

Just got em back, powdercoated. Bang-up job, they look anodized.

 

A few notes on the wiring. Wire sizes are guesses, colors are not.

Pretty much anything on the other side of the passenger-side turn signal/headlight/motor connectors can be hacked off with abandon. I chased all of them (sprayer-motor, sprayer-level sensor, some A/C wiring) all the way back to the firewall. But you really don't need to go that far. I ran for a while with the wires cut past the above mentioned point. I cut them clean and used shrink-tube to seal the ends. I'm trying very hard not to half-*** it this time tho.

Chris Ludwig hooked me up with the TII fuse block you see mounted in the car. The stock bracket bolts up with almost no modification. You can simply bend the mount a couple degrees and attach it with two small mazda trim bolts. The large white/red stripe wire in the harness is your 12v to the fuse block. You can run the TII alternator harness off this block. Chris even eliminated the stickers for the removed fuses, and the remaining fuse descriptions retain their accuracy. It was made for this car.

The small harness that connects to the sensors on the spark-side of the motor, is a branch off the main harness (4") inches forward the firewall. There are two connectors

The newer-style connector with 6 wide pins connects:
starter actuator - Black/Yellow stripe, 8 gauge wire
reverse lights - 2x circular tab connectors, 12 gauge wire

The older style with 10+ pins connects:
In-block oil-temp sensor - White single-tab connector 12 gauge wire
Analog oil level sensor - two-wire connector, 10 gauge wire
(Guess) Analog oil-temp - single copper/blue stripe, 10 gauge wire
(Guess) 2x Power-steeling - black single-tab connectors, 12 gauge

I'm thinking the stock tachometer is on this harness as well. A couple years ago I hacked off the terminal end of a wire on this harness, and installed a tubular-tab connector... The kind that plugs into the reading port off the leading coil. My tach worked, but was off about 800rpm from the reading the Haltech gave at redline. I'm going to try to install a potentiometer inbetween the two this year to see if I can find a way to make it more accurate at the top of the range. If I'm successful, I can measure the voltage and find a resistor that would do it.

Bah, a shiftlight will do.

The reverse lights may connect to the TII harness with no modification, or a simple connector style change. Starter plugs into the TII with a single plastic tab connector.

Used 11/16", 3/8", and 1/2" conduit from the firewall back, and about half a roll of 3M electircal. Most of the harness is electrical wrapped with a powderized flame retardant material that is yellow and disgusting. It's an irritant. After that there is an outer layer of conduit, with both a loose electrical wrap and a blue anti-tamper seal.

Future Wiring endevors:
Re-wire the positive from the relocated battery through a cutout switch before the car bursts into flame.

 

Footnote:

Mazda daisy-chained the hell out of the main harness ground. It's a pile of 8-to-12 gauge wires - black/white stripe with red hashes. It feeds ground to the main relays, driver-side engine sensors, fuse block, all-four front turn signals, and all the crap beyond. It splits a ton of times with brass 3+ wire connectors. It's therpudic to hack this crap out, but becareful not to cut above a shared ground you're still using.

 

I would have no idea what to do with electrical, but my dad works for Nevada power and been doing it all his life so he knows just about everything If I needed the help. Keep us posted, looks great so far.

What are you going to do to get all the air to the front mount?? Looks right where the bumper would be?? Atleast from the angle it was taken.

 

I have an REW/street ported just waiting to go into my SE. What did you use for EFI and ECU and who did you buy it from? I am looking at the michrotech ECU but have not even begun to look at the EFI yet.

Looks great!!!! I hope mine comes out as nice.

 

If you do cut above a shared ground you're still using.... could that cause a mysterious slow drain on the battery that can't be traced anywhere other than on the main fusible?

Because I'm starting to think I seriously forked some grounds when I trimmed my harness... my battery will drain right dead in 3 days if I don't drive the car, and the only drain showing is on the main fusible, even when I pull all the fuses from the inside fuse box.

Jon

 

ya tell me about that wiring harness... I'm going to try to do it with the following moto (the best ground is the shortest ground) ... also you gotta love how some wrie we'ren't even hooked up on both the ground and positive side. I'm in the same mess myself.

 

I'm using a Haltech E6X ECU, with the flying lead harness kit. I have nothing but good things to say about them.

Thanks for the comments!

 

are you going direct fire? I have a crank angle sensor from a TII that will replace my distributor for direct fire with the Microtech

But first i need to get the EFI in place. What did you use? It looks cool from the photo. The stock EFI will just not cut it.

 

I really don't know. I didn't have much of a chance to play with the stock fuseable-links.

 

OK, i took a closer look at the posted photos and saw the CAS, you are doing direct fire

 

I've got the Haltech Ignitor and a single MSD 6AL. I'll need to make improvements later.

Ludwig is coming over Saturday to help wire up the coils and give me a sanity-check. With any luck, I can start it up this weekend.

 

Well I'm using an FC fuse box, so when I say "main fusible" it's the main fuse. I have four : Headlight, Main, Retractor motors, and E-fan

The only one showing a draw is "main"... and it's the only place I can find a current draw at all. Must be on the engine side of the harness now that I think about it, since the fuse box inside doesn't make a difference and that's the first stop for the inner harnesses

Jon

 

so the KG Parts rails don't allow you to use the T2 injectors? guess i may have to fab somethings 'cause i've got hella T2 injectors. anyway, do you (or anyone else) have pics of both the stock REW injectors? also, the "domestic" injectors you speak of would those be like those "skinny" Ford ones?

thanks for any help.

 

Yea, good news is I sold my 680cc and 1680cc injectors and bought new domestic style injectors without a loss. The "import" style seem to be worth more.

Link to PDF with size specs for "Import style" injector

Link to PDF with size specs for "Domestic style" injector

Note the upper and lower o-ring size difference, and the different connector style.

 

One of the nuances of fitting top-feed injectors on the REW... Once you remove the diffusers in the secondary injector ports you end up with an area that is much too wide for the injector to seat properly. Ludwig pointed me to Dave Newbern's site where he sells these bushings for $25 a pair. They work great!





Much better!

Also note that to install top-feed injectors in the primaries you need to grind down the ridge between the ports on the center iron. It's easier if you do it with the motor unassembled, but if you're like me and your motor is in one piece you can use half-a-cork to plug the ports, some patience, and a shop-vac.





If you find yourself thinking this fuel setup looks familliar, that's not an accident. This design was shamelessly stolen from Atihun's thread on his setup for a his GT35r FD. I have to hand it to the guy, he really put together one hell of a trick kit. If I run into him at Sevenstock, I'm gonna have to buy him a beer!

The only caveat is the FPR is a tight-fit behind the FC water pump housing/alternator, something Atihun never had to worry about! If you try this, be sure to keep your clearances in mind.

Here's a brief rundown of the parts needed:

1x Aeromotive A1000 Fuel pressure regulator
3x male 6an o-ring to male 6an adapter
3x male 3/8 NPT to male 6an adapter
1x male 3/8 NPT to male 6an 90 degree adapter
5x 6an 90 degree hose end
1x 6an 180 degree hose end
1x 6an 120 degree hose end
1x 1/2 NPT to (2) 6an Y-style fuel distribution block
1x 1/3 NPT to barb adapter
1x 3 feet, 6an braided hose

The other stuff:
4x Marren domestic style injectors
KGParts primary and secondary top-feed fuel rails
Dave Newbern Secondary injector bushings



Aside from re-installing the pulleys and test-fitting the fuel system, I really didn't get much accomplished today. I'm going to try to knock out the fuel-line install tommorow, and get the rest of the oil-system plumbed.

Scheduled fire-up day is this Saturday, May 26. Should be a fun Memorial weekend for me.

 

wow that setup looks nice!
this should be archieved.

 

Duck if you do get it up PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE call me I wanna come take a look and listen.