Oil pressure may be misleading. It's just a measure of back pressure resisting the flow of oil. Of course, if the pressure drops to zero you have a Big Problem, like a broken pump, no oil, or a huge leak. There may be obstructions in the passageways, due to manufacturing tolerances, or tighter tolerances in bearings. Ultimately, the highest oil pressure is achieved when the oil passages are blocked and no new oil reaches the bearing surfaces. What matters is the presence of oil on bearings, and that it is not too hot nor too dirty. I remember some race cars as having low oil pressure (even after rebuild) and running long and fast.

I have 2 12As and 2 13Bs on the road and all of them have different oil pressure characteristics. The 83GS has rather low pressure, but it is the smoothest running and most trouble free car I've ever driven. I bought it new and I'm the only one to drive it (for 130k). I've never had an engine failure.

Too viscous an oil can tear and cavitate, resulting in voids and bubbles which don't support bearing load and result in failure.

 

alright dammit.
yes i found this thread in the FAQ. and read all 7 pages and still alittle confused.
from what i gather is dino is for people who still have functional OMP and not running premix.
and SYN is for the opposite? have a friend who runs syn with functional OMP and no premix with no problems. i have been running dino since ive had the car for 2 years with the omp. he said i should switch, but still alittle skectchy on the whole deal.
so please in 10 words or less with few flames as possible, should i switch or not?
sorry to start a war again if it happens, but just wanna know.

 

You should change if you want to. Even with a working OMP, you'll have no issues with a good synthetic.

 

Gotta call you on this one.

I read a number of trade magazines for lubrication and lubricant professionals, mainly guys who keep giant turbines running indefinitely without failure (think hydroelectric power plants, with turbines the size of large houses).

Oils DO degrade, important additives (like acid neutralizers) DO wear out, and oils DO need to be drained and replaced. Electrostatic charge builds up in oil, mainly when moving through a filter, and the discharges cause long-term damage to the lubricating properties of the oil. Degradation and acid build-up lead to sludge and varnish, which can ruin an engine if allowed to build up sufficiently (and that's in turbines and boingers; the problem would be even worse with gummed-up apex seals, I'd suspect).

Changing your oil frequently (and with a quality product) is the best thing you can do to lengthen the lifespan of your engine, whatever sort of engine it may be. For those who have serious concerns, you can get your oil analyzed by a lab for about $20 and find out how badly degraded the oil is; testing over the long haul with the same oil can show you when your engine is in need of attention BEFORE you have a catastrophic failure; you will alos know just how well your oil holds up over time in your particular engine. Handy things to know.

 

i used to use mobil 1 5-20 synthetic before and it use to burn alot of oil about 1/2 of a quart 3000 miles and change to valvoline 20-50 and i burn about .25 of a quart every 3000 miles now. better for my wallet

 

Better for your wallet, but better for your engine? If you get 20 mpg, YOU WENT FROM 300:1 TO 600:1 gas-to-oil used ratio. I premix 100:1. Might want to rethink whether less usage is really better.

 

i understand that synthetic is bad for rotaries because it has a high shearing factor when compared to mineral oils, where a mineral oil breaks down with heat and friction a synthetic does not, this provides better lubrication for longer in a piston motor but in a rotary the seals suffer, you want the oil to degrade not your engine components, i have no idea what new synthetic oils are doing these days so i'm probably wrong but this was the case a long time ago, a good mineral oil burns just as cleanly as any synthetic all you have to do is look at a qualitative analysis sheet on virgin oils, this is where the real test is. more importantly, look at the metal content in a used synthetic.

 

I always use Castrol GTX 20W 50, being in south Florida and all. But I'm planning to do the PCV OMP adapter conversion and run 2 stroke oil. Then I may run Mobil 1 or something.

Don't use Repsol competition 2 stroke oil, I lost a 2 stroke engine to that stuff. If it can't stand up to a 30cc air cooled 2 stroke engine's heat, how would it stand up to a rotary? It makes me cringe to think about what would be going on in there with that oil.

 

I found this thread in the FAQ. There's no way I'd run a 20W-X oil, it's too heavy on start-up, even in TX. 0W-40 or 5W-40, but no less than that.

The article below should answer more questions than it creates:

READ THIS!

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

 

Agreed. I have used Moblil 1 sythetic since I have my SE (bought it with 46,000 miles in 1989) and cannot believe how clean it burns and how clean the plugs are. Back in 1990, by buddy, who had a 87 TII was told by the Mazda dealer to use "only" Mobil 1-----of course that was "off the record." If you research the best of the synthetics like Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, etc., you will notice that Mobil 1 is right up there with the best of them and actually even out-performs some of these other sythetics in certain areas of testing. I use Mobil 1 for convenience purposes as well----I can get it at almost any auto store and WalMart.

Mike

 

Download the PDF on this website and read it. its 150 pages, all you ever needed to know about synthetics and convetional oils.

http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motoroil.html

 

wow talk about ressurection...

:AA:

 

Cant find the link there, or maybe I am just slow lol.

 

It's a pain to read through the guy's pitch. But he explicitly requests not to post his PDF but have people visit his site for it to drive traffic to his site. That is why he is no longer selling it but giving it for free. The guy did an amazing job putting it together so out of respect I wont post the PDF here directly. Tempted though just to have other who to discuss it with.

 

i recently started using mobil 1 15-50 and lucas stabilizer and have had no problems with it. before i heard that whole "dont use synthetics in a rotary" so i was just thinkin what the hell? and tried it and i have NO complaints! if i didnt work at wal-mart id go the 7 bucks/qt for royal purple lol o well one day!

 

Top of the line products for oil filters, air filters, and every type of synthetic oil is Amsoil. Look at the independent lab tests, they are the benchmark in the oil industry. their 5 W 30 is about 7 bucks, which is rated at 25K miles. Their top of the line is the new 0W30, almost ten bucks a quart! But the absolute best synthetic on the market. Ive researched them all, they are hands down the best.

 

I second that. I use it in all my vehicles and frankly it is the best. I go 12K mile oil changes on my commuter car, Toyota Echo, and have oil analysis done. At 12K there is plenty of life left in the oil and that is on the best in the industry 0w-30. On my 86 K20 it goes 30K between oil changes. On the Rx7 I run Amsoil in all parts even the bushings , however I run the Amsoil recommended European 5w-40. My standpoint that it burns good, however this is coming from a guy who is running no cats.



Product Description
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx

 

Because the SAE deleted all mention of synthetic oil. Mineral oil can be sold as synthetic, and the term synthetics is merly a sales term for the most highly proccessed mineral oil. Even names such as Royal Purple is based on mineral oil!!!

the only fully synthetic oil today I know of is AMSOIL. 10 years ago they were more on the market but production costs and the fact synthetic became a meaningless term lead to most dropping there Full, True, made made synthetic oil.

 

I have always run quaker state 10-40w and Bosch filter old school in 12a.

 

Actually it was the major oil companies that sued and won the right to call themselves synthetic as long it is of a base stock was ultra purified. But you can do a little research on the company and find out what the true synthetics are. Redline, Amsoil, and NEO all have been around for 25+ years and are true synthetics. The synthetics use basestocks composed of Polyalphaolefins, diesters, and polyesters. Look for these key words on the synthetic oils. If they dont mention it, it isnt true synthetic oil.

Anyone wanting to get the Motor Oil Bible, PM me and I will email it. It is a treasure trove of information...

 

Newbie Questions

What is OMP? What is OMM?


Thanks in advance - Matty

 

So passionate about our oils are we. I heard a story the other day about an old guy with a totally different perspective on the issue. It made me cringe.

I guess one day this mechanic had a rav4 or 4runner or something like it towed into his shop. Apparently the motor was shot. What was amazing to the mechanic was the factory paint hadn't been broken on the drain plug. I guess in the end the 2 of them figured the numbers and the old guys gamble paid off. The cost of a new motor was less than what the oil changes would've totalled.

I'M NOT SUGGESTING ANYONE TRY THIS BY ANY MEANS!!

I guess all I'm trying to say is maybe the heated debates about synth vs. petro don't seem like such a big deal when there's people who choose neither?

 

yea, but on a rotary its a whole nother story

 

Ya, that's right. I'm still not really sure what my point of that post was. Made sense at 2 in the morning.

 

I was using 10/30 chevron oil in my 12a with 2xxxxx miles on it, it smoked between shifting the gear at high rpms. them i changed the oil and used chevron 20/50 which caused my car to smoke real bad. it was so bad that i got pulled over and was given a waring ticket. after that i put some lucas stuff in and mixed the 10/30 with 20/50 and its smoke at start up and 4 and above rpms. although the is a visible oil dripping under the engine which looks like it's coming from the oil cooler hose !!!!!!
not to mention that i get the smell of radiator stench in the car when i turn the heater on or off !!!!!