1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

OIL which brands burn good and which don't?

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Old Dec 10, 2003 | 06:47 PM
  #51  
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Originally posted by 12abridgep0rt
synthetic is bad for rotarys period. Why would you spend extra money to damage your engine?

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Old Dec 10, 2003 | 06:49 PM
  #52  
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Real insightful huh?
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Old Dec 10, 2003 | 06:57 PM
  #53  
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That was the nicest thing I could post.
It's part of the whole new kinder and gentler WG.
We'll see how long that lasts.
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Old Dec 10, 2003 | 07:41 PM
  #54  
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Originally posted by Wankelguy
That was the nicest thing I could post.
It's part of the whole new kinder and gentler WG.
We'll see how long that lasts.
LOL, I expect about as long as Sterling.
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Old Dec 11, 2003 | 10:06 AM
  #55  
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i use quakerstate 10W-30 high mileage on acount of 155,00+ miles on the original engine!
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Old Dec 11, 2003 | 10:22 AM
  #56  
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I am hooked, the next oil change I will switch over to synthetic oil. Right now I am running the original motor with 185,000 miles and probably a bunch of dino crude. After I clean all the crude out with power foam, can I then change over to synthetic oil?

I thank you all for the research. I am tired of hearing strict opinion, it's nice to hear real facts once in a while.
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Old Dec 11, 2003 | 11:03 AM
  #57  
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From: Cupertino, Ca.
Originally posted by 851stgen12a
Have run Redline 10w-30 for the last 13,000 miles. The car smokes very little even with the straight pipe.
PLugs always look a very nice cocoa brown.
It does get a little expensive though. I pay about $7.50 a quart. Seems worth it to me though.
I have seen Roy Howell (the head of product development and chief chemist for Red Line Oil) lecture about 5 times. He is so adamant that synthetics are superior that he recommends using Mobil 1 or any other 'cheaper' synthetic in your street car. The guy is totally unbiased (even though he owns about 1/3 of the companies stock). I can get Mobil 1 for about half the price I pay for Redline so that's what I use. Roy's credentials speak for themselves and his recommendation of a competitors product lends an air of credibility to his statements.

-Scott Tucker
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 01:47 PM
  #58  
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Originally posted by nimrodTT
I, for one, am tired of people saying not to use synthetic in a rotary. You want the cleanest burn and the best protection inside the combustion chambers against friction on your rotary? Then a SYNTHETIC two-stroke premix oil can't be beat. You want the best protection for your engine internals with the lowest friction and longest wear? Then a SYNTHETIC motor oil is for you....
I agree, I used regular oil for the longest time until a friend of mine filled me in with the details about synthetic oil. Its better, the car doesn't smoke much on fresh starts, the exhaust even smells better. It may be expencive, but compared to more frequest oil changes and more wear and tear on your engine, I'll take synthetic any day of the week. Its may run me 40$ (with filter) to change my oil, but I'd rather pay the extra 20$ or so for the peace of mind if anything
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Old Jan 7, 2004 | 10:52 PM
  #59  
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shell 20w-50w
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Old Jan 7, 2004 | 11:21 PM
  #60  
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so is vValvoline high milage(red bottle) 10W-30 good? that's what i've ran the past 6K
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 12:15 AM
  #61  
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i use mobil best mineral oil..

and i havnt changed it since last year febuary..

coz i forgot u have to change it every 3 months..


so i guess im gonna stick with mobil - best mineral oil incase i forget again

Last edited by Rx7carl; Jul 13, 2004 at 10:10 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 05:32 AM
  #62  
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Originally posted by timmya2
i use mobil best mineral oil..

and i havnt changed it since last year febuary..

coz i forgot u have to change it every 3 months..


so i guess im gonna stick with mobil - best mineral oil incase i forget again
You didn't forget, you didn't know.
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 05:58 AM
  #63  
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i forgot

Last edited by Rx7carl; Jul 13, 2004 at 10:14 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 06:40 AM
  #64  
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That's not something you forget.

Conversation.

Timmya - "My car has been running strange"
Me - "When was the last tune-up?"
Timmya - "Not too long ago, the begining of last year, had the oil changed then too"
Me - "You're kidding?"
Timmya - "No, why, is that bad?"

Don't bullshit, you'll almost always be caught.

Last edited by O 16581 72452 5; Jan 8, 2004 at 06:43 AM.
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 07:48 AM
  #65  
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yeh i forgot that i have to change it..

it says in big letters every 3 months or 10 thousand kms on the sheet and now i remember the guy telling me after he done the tune up..

its all coming back to me now..
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 05:39 PM
  #66  
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From: Stinson Beach, Ca
Originally posted by RXTbone
14 days of 100 + degrees...

How's that for hot?
14 days? I'm in about double that of over 113 degree weather, goddamn phoenix!
Havent had the RX-7 during summer though, only seen maybe 85 degrees so far. It's gonna be crazy though
Gotta love 70 degrees in the beginning of january.
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 06:38 PM
  #67  
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where averaging 35C over here is aus. Glad I work in a/c!!!

timmya2 thats just sad. Try changing your oil and cleaning your plugs and distrib. Might run a bit better.
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 07:16 PM
  #68  
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I've already been over it with him heb09.

Full tune-up; new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil, oil filter, fuel filter.

Cap and rotor you could probably go without, just sand the points with fine grit sandpaper.

Back to topic -

I used the cheapest oil i could possibly find, since i had to add a quart every 700 or so miles, i was doing half an oil change inbetween my actual oil change. I figured why spend alot of money on expensive oil?

Upon taking my engine apart, the internals were in excellent shape by the way. Only reason the engine failed was due to a previous rebuild, 4 corner seals parallel to one another were not replaced resulting in two bent apex seal springs.

Last edited by O 16581 72452 5; Jan 8, 2004 at 07:21 PM.
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Old Jun 28, 2004 | 11:24 PM
  #69  
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Casterol gtx 10w40
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 12:04 AM
  #70  
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15w-45, half 10w-40 and 20w-50 with kawasaki two stroke premix
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 01:04 PM
  #71  
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Im not here to argue or state a certain point. Just explain what synthetics did to me. I own a corvette which praises synthetics as does my wifes lincoln ls. I had an 85 se that when i bought it only had 40000 miles on it. The normal style oil was ran in it from day one and i didnt know there was a problem with running synthetic. I had mobil one 10-w30 put in and thats when my problems came. I went from having a leak free car to having one that leaked all over the place. Im talking a puddle after leaving it parked over night. Further investigation unvieled the problem. Se's have the oil cooler that is in front of the radiator. Well there are braided lines connecting to the block and are what the oil go through. Mazda says the cause was a chemical reaction of the mobil 1 synthetic eating through those hoses. Not from the oil out of the bottles, but after its burned through the motor and recycled through the oil system. Im not experienced with the internals of rotaries but it was something that after the combustion seperates the oil back to the pan. I quickly put old style valvoline in it and the leak didnt go away but got alot less apparent. My point is those lines are cheap but u have to replace to cooler as well, somewhere around 500 bucks total for everyhting. To make a long story short ill never run synthetics in an se again. It might be fine in other rotaries but not in a gslse. Thanks, Karson
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 02:15 PM
  #72  
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I run Royal Purple 10w30. And RP premix. 1/2 quart per fill up. Read Royal Purple's webisite and do some FAQ reading. Also, read RB's web page about the praises of Royal Purple. And yes, my OMP still works, I just want some insurance because the street port motor only has 8000 miles on it, and it's been built 10 years ago. No smoke on startup, and runs 60 lbs of pressure at 100* at 3k rpm.
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Old Aug 30, 2004 | 06:37 PM
  #73  
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From: san francisco
20W-50

say if you have just had an oil change and you need to add oil, is it bad to mix oil brands? but you still use the same thickness...
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Old Aug 30, 2004 | 07:01 PM
  #74  
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I've had no problems with AMSOIL 20/50 racing in my first gen ITA car or my FD. I also like Valvoline VR-1 racing oil. In the winter I use Valoline 10/30 semi-syn or whatever its called.


edit: I also premix with AMSOIL 2-cycle.
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Old Aug 30, 2004 | 10:48 PM
  #75  
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I had a friend that ran redline and at 200k he did not use oil or had any compression problems. I also used royal purple in my se and right after noticied an increase in oil pressure and the engine quieted way down. I also was a service manager for many years at an german repair facility which we exclusively ran castrol 20w50 in most of out vehicles
which some had an excess of 400k on them with no engine problems. The key is use a high
quaility oil filter, change regular oil every 3k, and synthetic no more than 7500 miles. Keep
the engine in tune and make sure the filter is clean, remember these all affect oil quality.
It is true that if you have questionable sealing on your engine that it will leak more with a
synthetic oil. Synthetics offer better guard against breakdown and are very beneficial if you do not drive your vehicle on a regular basis, prevents excessive contamination due to condensation in your oil pan. The oil base does not breakdown in oil, it is the additives that
make it a multi-grade, non-foaming, anti corrosive properties that do. Now that i have stated all this i need to eat, i have used up my last two brain cells. rx7doctor
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