Does anyone have an opinion on Idemitsu oil and premix?

 

i always enjoy these debates personally i stick with dyno oil its what ive always used and why change what works after all it aint broke and having to change it a little more often is fine by me however i would like to eliminate the omp and run premix though i imagine that has a tendancy to gum up the filter quite a bit faster than normal

 

Idemitsu has a LOT of molybdenum (like 7x as much as Castrol GTX) and very good amounts of zinc and phosphorous, all of which are excellent anti-wear additives that the rotary likes. Since we're smearing oil on the side plates. It's just real expensive. Valvoline VR-1 50 weight caught my eye, gonna try that next.

Since n/a rotaries are spun up to higher rpms than the typical forced induction beer keg, the oil is sheared a lot more and breaks down quicker. Plus we use it for cooling so much I prefer to change the dinosaur oil @ 3000miles rather than doing the synthetic @ 10,000 miles. But when I ran Royal Purple my engine oil temps did go down by 10*F no ****.

 

Ive run Idemitsu in my S5 TII engine since I installed it in 02' (after break-in of course).
Changed every 3-4K miles.
No problems over the last 50K miles,great compression,starts right up everytime......good stuff.

 

yo so any tips for oil that might make a differents in passing smog?

 

Crisco. Hands down it Is the best smelling oil I've ever thrown into my engine

 

i think im start useing royal purple in the new 7 i got haha alwasys used valvoline

 

valvoline??? Once I cut open a container to use as a funnel for the next oil change. There was sediment at the bottom. Never again!!!

I use castrol. $4.80 a quart.....can you believe that ****!!??

 

****... i run mobil1 15w50 w/ AMSoil 2 stroke silver saber premix in the tank





... but before the premix days, i ran straight Rotella 15W40

 

Im looking to change all of my fluids to royal purple (engine,trans,lsd) in my 84. Any opinions on royal purple besides the email from a rotary driving employee? Would it be a good idea to clean everything out once drained with a foam of sorts?

 

I don't recommend using Royal Purple in the transmission. It is too slippery and is not specifically a GL-4 brass synchro oil. People have reported that their trans gets grindy after using Royal Purple in a trans that calls for GL-4. Redline has a GL-4 trans oil called MT-90 that I use instead. Or you can go cheap with Sta-Lube.

I really liked RP in the engine, like I said earlier it reduced oil temps by 10*F right off the bat.

The general consensus is Royal Purple costs much more than the benefit you're getting. You're paying for their advertising they do all over the place. Kinda like Patron Tequila, it's good, but there is better for the price and you're paying for their racecar funding.

Just do a good flush of the oil pan, trans and diff by pouring some of the new fluid in there with the drainplug in, then pull the plug and drain what was on the bottom of the pan/case.

 

Seems to me like the community as a whole is split 50/50 synth/dino oil and nobody can agree on which brands are good, and which are bad. I was thinking About running Amsoil 10w-40 in my '83 GSL. I came to this conclusion based off of the chart included in our owners' manual, and the fact that I'll only be driving the car whenever there isn't snow on the ground (I live in MN). I need an oil that can cover a large temperature range.

My main question is whether or not it is a good idea to run synthetic oil. I've read that switching to synth oil would cause some headaches considering it has the original engine and 159k miles. I'm not sure if prior owners used synthetics or mineral oils.

Anybody care to put their .02 in?

Here is the chart I referred to earlier.

 

I think everyone would agree that fresh, clean oil is best.

 

Has anyone ever tried valvoline 30w racing oil non syn? Its what I run in my old v8 cars because its high in zinc and has additives to help friction against flat tappet cams, which I would think could also help the seals and crome on the rotor housings. I've thought about trying it but didn't know if it would hurt anything or not?

 

I am currently using Valvoline Racing VR1 20w50 non synthetic in my 13b streetport. It won't hurt anything. I commented on it earlier on this thread. It seems to maintain oil pressure at higher rpms better than Castrol GTX... and keeps its viscosity as good or better than Castrol GTX.

 

Guys, I live in a Hot weather area 35C~47C, Middle East, but it gets cold in the winter 27C~19C and I used Motul 15w50, the car smokes in cold start the rpm plays up n down for a bit then the smoke stops! I am think of getting RE Amemiya 10w40 SL, since I am an RE Amemiya freak

What do you guys think?
and how much of liters do I need to fill the engine up?

Thanks

 

The only synthetic motor oil that should be used in a rotary engine is Idemitsu synthetic, available from MAZDATRIX..COM

 

Based on what exactly? Share the secret.

I've used Amsoil for years without a single issue.

 

Go to MAZDATRIX.COM website and read under section OIL,LUBES, ETC. It's the only synthetic oil specifically formulated for Rotary engines. Or call them and pick their brain, they've been working on Rotary engines for over 30 years.👍

 

Nothing like resurrecting a thread from 2003 thats been dead for 2 years now. I guess someone
has to do it.

Carry on.

 

ok this is funny everyone should learn why synthetics are better than conventional oil in the fist place and how they are made. this will clear up all the arguments period.SYNTHETIC DONE.
my question is when i worked on a championship race car team, and i am trying to understand why our mobile 1 said for race use only do not use on the street. i think it has more heavy metals that might effect emissions.
see this web page.
The technology of synthetic oil. How is synthetic oil made?

 

Pre-mix won't gum up fuel filters any more than gasoline will. Its in suspension with the gasoline.

 

Here is the Mazdatrix description for the premix, take note of the last sentence:


Idemitsu Racing Rotary Fuel Lube (Premix) - Synthetic Blend


Inherently with many rotary engines, the entirety of the rotor and housing are not being sufficiently lubricated, resulting in premature wear or damage. In order to increase lubrication within the engine, Idemitsu developed Idemitsu Rotary Premix. At 1/2 oz per gallon of fuel, it is a cost effective way lubricate more of your engine and prevent premature catastrophic damage.

A special blend of base oils reduces deposits and subsequent exhaust port clogging. As a result, your rotary will maintain the power at which it was designed. Special detergent/dispersant additives keep your fuel injectors clean to reduce maintenance. Provides additional lubrication for apex and side seals to increase seal life and increase efficiency of engine. Special additives allow for better sealing of the chamber, creating greater efficiency and more power.

Note! Do NOT use with ethanol or ethanol based fuels!

 

This may sounds funny but, Can anyone tell me why I get more smoke on cold start after a week of not running the engine, than if I start it daily? Im interested in understanding what is happening to cause it to smoke more after not driving it for a while compared to daily. It stops smoking after about 10-15 seconds. Its an FD. TIA.