I just started my bone stock '81 Rx7 on Amsoil Signature Series 0W-30 and Amsoil P.I. in the gas tank every 3 months. If there is a carbon build up issue, that should take care of it.

 

you guys think kendall 10W-40 is good stuff? its synthetic blend, but damn good oil. it dont burn like the oil i had in previously though, not sure what since i recently got the car.

 

Kendall is good oil. If they make a synthetic you could blend your own.
My personal preference is Castrol. I have been known to mix my own synthetic blend with 3 quarts of Castrol GT and 2 quarts of Syntec. This gives you the benefit of the synthetic additive package at much less cost. I have never seen a percentage of synthetic in a commercial blend. This way I know it is 40%.

 

I used Valvoline durablend in a V6 isuzu once. The valve tick was louder, oil got dirtier and thinned out quicker than when I used Mobil1.

As such I'm not a big fan of the synthetic/dinosaur blends. To each their own.

 

Yeah i changed the oil about 1200 miles ago and have added a third of a quart since, i check it compulsively with a cool engine on flat ground, i would've added a quart by now with the old oil. it was fresh when i got it so who the hell knows, i just dont want no stuck seals, fouled plugs, etc...do you pre-mix? i put redline 2 stroke in mine, 1/2 oz per gallon

 

I use omp with 20-50 GTX but I also add 4 oz of marval myst oil to every tank. It keeps the seals clean and the extra lube can't hurt .It burns supper clean.iI live in FL.thats why I use the 20/50

 

thank you,
for the great info, I have settled on 10w-30 for now.
Just got my 85 gsl se. And will be back in the 1st gen forum soon, for more tips.
thanks
Spencer

 

Oil should always be non-synthetic mineral motor oil for all Rx-7's. Rotarys use at least 1 qt. of oil every 3,000 miles depending on how you drive it, because it gets burned up in the combustion process. Synthetics are made not to burn for cylinder motors, hence they leave residue in your engine, and secondly it is highly possible that synthetics cause certain o-rings and seals to shrink, there-by causing leaks. Stick to what Mazda recommends and thats non-synthetic mineral oil.

As far as oil weights, check the car manual, and change accordingly with the hot and cold seasons.

 

castrol syntec 10-40

 

well Im sold, after lots of reading and learning more about oil then anyone should ever know. Im switching.

sort of.....

Im switching to a group III "full syn" oil, castol 5-w40. why because one most synthetic oil in the US is not synthetic it is just to top of the line dino oil. as it was stated in this thread earlyer its mostly about molecule size, group III oil is just a dino oil that meets the molecular requirements to pass as synthetic oil.. synthetic oils molecules are all the same meaning there molecules are 100% the same. group III is oil that has been refined to the point that its very close to 100% the same.

group III oil will burn the same as a reg oil, only a lot cleaner (aka less gunk) due to the fact that the low quality oil is not going to break down and make crud. the only thing that sucks about syn oils is they do tend to have useless additives added that do nothing for us in the rotary world. but most reg oils and anything with "high mileage" or "performance" will have it too.

so the way I see it.

ether use no detergent reg oil (wich is hard to find) and do 3k oil changes, and deal with the crud and sludge of a reg oil.

or use group III syn, witch will be like 90% of the regular oil on the market. only it will work better in all ways.

the only oil that I see as a drastic change is group IV oil, IF I was to use it I would definitely switch to running with out a oil meter and using a pre mix, just biased on the fact that others have and have had no problems.

Im switching to a group III "full syn" oil, castol 5-w40, 5-w40 because I know people have ran it with no problems, plus I would never run anything close to 20w40 I believe this is a myth, and that a rotary needs a lighter wight oil to work properly.
going to turn down the meter pump, and premix as I have always have.

 

wait so instead of 2-stroke oil u can just run premix with mmo with no omp?

 

I only and will only use Royal Purple in anything and everything. I'll leave it at that. Try it, results speak for themselves.

 

somebody needs to send an e-mail to Mythbuster

 

i have an oven and trays i plan on doing the experiment with. but with 30 brands of 6 types of oil at 3-4 dollars each. i need donations in all seriousness i plan to start with 12 and do more if i can get some help( buy it and send it to me?)

 

lols. Synthetic cant be too bad.....The 787B used premixed idemitsu........


FYI, Idemitsu is SYNTHETIC. And its like a 2 cycle mix. If I remember right, half a quart goes 11 gallons, and its just about 7 bucks a quart.

Burns clean and when I ran It I noticed no difference in the life of the spark plugs between it and running the omp , and is reportedly worth a few horsepower.

Oh yeah, idemetsu is the *only* dedicated rotary combustion oil I know of.

 

LOL

 

That's an idea

here it is:

http://community.discovery.com/eve/f.../m/67819960701

 

Well maybe that forum ^^^^^^ will end the war once and for all lol....

 

We should also have them check out the myth that rotary's *always* blow up at 80k miles.

 

Turbo rotary that is. Life of a N/A is above 120K miles and probably 200K if you drive it like a "lil ol lady from Pasadena."

 

Yeah, I know, but I got that about my happy lil NA first gen all the time.

I had A guy in southern Ohio trying to sell me a '73 rx3 wagon at 76k miles for that reason. He told me "I just cant afford to rebuild it, and its only got 4k miles left in it) Like it has an expiration date or something lol

 

I'm at 140k, car runs incredibly strong, and I ALWAYS beat on it.

Anyway, 10W-30 Royal Purple in my GSL-SE. Ran it since I bought the car.

 

Just saying. But I had just generic oil in my 12a when i bought the car, pulled to redline fine then switched to eneos 0w50 race oil full synthetic (which I always use) (Japanese or no means) and the motor starting shaking heavily near 6 or 7k rpm then one day on a delivery at work apex seal cracked and I was lucky enoug to make it home

 

I've used Mobil1 15w50 (same as previous owner) since I bought the car except in the winter I switched to 10w30. I love Mobil1! I think it's just as good as royal purple and WAY more reasonably priced plus every other Monty or so we have it on sale at work. I also blocked off my omp and started premixing with outboard 2cycle and my engine loved me for it.

 

I do the same. Its harder on the wallet but I dont mind.