OIL which brands burn good and which don't?
09-02-03, 04:02 AM
#1
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OIL which brands burn good and which don't?
TOPIC,
"which brands burn good and which don't"
I want to start this thread on it's own because it starts a fight and messes up a good topic
I also would like some input here, so tell us what is the best synthetic to use and what's the best reg petrolem oil to use in a rotary
Now I know most of you say syn is not for a rotary
It will gum it up, so pretend we can't buy reg oil anymore !
Now tell me "what brand do you know for a fact gums one up or causes problems"
For reg oil tell me the same thing
and in your post give us a brand name and type
examples: pensoil 20-50 petrolem
pensoil 20-50 synthetic
These are just examples !
Let the games begin!
"which brands burn good and which don't"
I want to start this thread on it's own because it starts a fight and messes up a good topic
I also would like some input here, so tell us what is the best synthetic to use and what's the best reg petrolem oil to use in a rotary
Now I know most of you say syn is not for a rotary
It will gum it up, so pretend we can't buy reg oil anymore !
Now tell me "what brand do you know for a fact gums one up or causes problems"
For reg oil tell me the same thing
and in your post give us a brand name and type
examples: pensoil 20-50 petrolem
pensoil 20-50 synthetic
These are just examples !
Let the games begin!
Last edited by CHUCKCAT; 09-02-03 at 04:04 AM.
09-02-03, 05:51 PM
#4
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Have run Redline 10w-30 for the last 13,000 miles. The car smokes very little even with the straight pipe.
PLugs always look a very nice cocoa brown.
It does get a little expensive though. I pay about $7.50 a quart. Seems worth it to me though.
PLugs always look a very nice cocoa brown.
It does get a little expensive though. I pay about $7.50 a quart. Seems worth it to me though.
09-02-03, 08:38 PM
#6
I, for one, am tired of people saying not to use synthetic in a rotary. You want the cleanest burn and the best protection inside the combustion chambers against friction on your rotary? Then a SYNTHETIC two-stroke premix oil can't be beat. You want the best protection for your engine internals with the lowest friction and longest wear? Then a SYNTHETIC motor oil is for you.
If just one person stops spreading the myth, then it's worth my effort. Don't even get me started on ATF and MMO...people should start thinking for themselves instead of blindly jumping to someone else's conclusion.
If just one person stops spreading the myth, then it's worth my effort. Don't even get me started on ATF and MMO...people should start thinking for themselves instead of blindly jumping to someone else's conclusion.
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09-02-03, 08:53 PM
#8
I, for one, am tired of people saying not to use synthetic in a rotary. You want the cleanest burn and the best protection inside the combustion chambers against friction on your rotary? Then a SYNTHETIC two-stroke premix oil can't be beat. You want the best protection for your engine internals with the lowest friction and longest wear? Then a SYNTHETIC motor oil is for you.
By the way, 20w50 is another myth (IMO) - stuffs too heavy for anything other than a very hot climate
09-02-03, 10:26 PM
#10
Originally posted by Northern 7
Would you mind clarifing this for me? Are you using synthetic premix rather than the OMP? And if you're using synthetic motor oil, what kind. I'm thinking of changing over too and would like to hear more about this.
By the way, 20w50 is another myth (IMO) - stuffs too heavy for anything other than a very hot climate
Would you mind clarifing this for me? Are you using synthetic premix rather than the OMP? And if you're using synthetic motor oil, what kind. I'm thinking of changing over too and would like to hear more about this.
By the way, 20w50 is another myth (IMO) - stuffs too heavy for anything other than a very hot climate
09-02-03, 10:29 PM
#11
My wife bought me 2 RX-7s
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I use Castrol GTX 20W50 in the summer, and either 5w30 or 0w30 in the winter time. I autocross my car on a regular basis, and I sure as heck am not going to subject the engine to that kind of action without a good heavy oil.
To me, using non-synthetic is a no-brainer. It's cheaper and Mazda recommends it. That's enough for me.
To me, using non-synthetic is a no-brainer. It's cheaper and Mazda recommends it. That's enough for me.
09-03-03, 10:19 AM
#13
Racing Beat has been using Synthetic for years - what I'd like to know is are they also using a premix and can you rely on the OMP alone when using Synth. oils.
The only unanswered question so far is if Synthetics do not burn (or burn less), what happens to the oil the OMP is providing? Is it being burnt off or is it collecting in the form of a sludge in your engine. If racing beat is correct, the oil must be burning off - OR - they are not running the OMP and using a premix (synthetic??) as noted above. Anyone have any insight into this??
The only unanswered question so far is if Synthetics do not burn (or burn less), what happens to the oil the OMP is providing? Is it being burnt off or is it collecting in the form of a sludge in your engine. If racing beat is correct, the oil must be burning off - OR - they are not running the OMP and using a premix (synthetic??) as noted above. Anyone have any insight into this??
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Ottoman5000 (07-13-18)
09-03-03, 10:50 AM
#14
Oh for Christ sakes, this subject has been beaten to death on this board.
STOP SPREADING THE MYTH THAT SYNTHETIC OIL IS BAD FOR ROTARIES.
I swear, sometimes this board does more harm than good, look at the "wisdom" of using ATF to clean engine internals.
Hey Carl, I'm taggin' you in, buddy!
STOP SPREADING THE MYTH THAT SYNTHETIC OIL IS BAD FOR ROTARIES.
I swear, sometimes this board does more harm than good, look at the "wisdom" of using ATF to clean engine internals.
Hey Carl, I'm taggin' you in, buddy!
09-03-03, 11:28 AM
#15
Ah, finally! I agree that ATF is garbage. Never tried powerfoam, but I've read nothing but good about it. I think MMO saved my 20B from having to be rebuilt. I'll know when I get it started, which will be soon.
I'm currently using Castrol 10w-30, but I might switch to havoline or valvoline based on what others have said about it.
I'm currently using Castrol 10w-30, but I might switch to havoline or valvoline based on what others have said about it.
09-03-03, 01:35 PM
#16
Are you gonna shift?!
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No OMP+premix of MMO or 2 stroke oil (16oz per full tank)=okay to use synthetic motor oil
OMP functional+no premix, little premix=not okay to use synthetic motor oil.
OMP functional+no premix, little premix=not okay to use synthetic motor oil.
09-03-03, 02:19 PM
#17
I just had a chat with the guys at Racing Beat - they say you do not need to use premix with synthetic's. Their standing is that syn. oils will burn as mineral based oils do - only at higher temps (and not that much higher) and do nto leave a residue
They also noted that Royal Purple will be completing a document on the use of syn oils in rotary's that will be published on both their site and RB's site in October '03. The document will completely endorse the use of syn's in rotarys (although it will most likely be biased toward their product).
It is both the belief of Royal P and RB that syn's are a better alternative to mineral oil in rotary engines for all the same reasons they are so popular in piston engines.
That's good enough for me - I'm going with syn's
They also noted that Royal Purple will be completing a document on the use of syn oils in rotary's that will be published on both their site and RB's site in October '03. The document will completely endorse the use of syn's in rotarys (although it will most likely be biased toward their product).
It is both the belief of Royal P and RB that syn's are a better alternative to mineral oil in rotary engines for all the same reasons they are so popular in piston engines.
That's good enough for me - I'm going with syn's
09-03-03, 05:42 PM
#18
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Thank you! Maybe this will finally put to rest the "no synthetic" bullshit.
Last edited by mar3; 10-05-09 at 08:56 PM. Reason: killd quote since reply was back-to-back to post in question...
09-03-03, 06:38 PM
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Even if they dont burn really great, and leave a little sludge, a few good hard Rpm pulls ought to burn any left over crap off the seals.
Ohh yea, I forgot to mention, I DO still have to OMP hooked up, and I run Valvoline 2 stroke oil. about 6ozs per tank for regurlar driving, about about 10oz, for a tank that will get used for track days or auto-x.
I have though about disconnecting my OMP, but since it it a daily driver I really dont care to toast my motor when I forget to put pre-mix in.
Ohh yea, I forgot to mention, I DO still have to OMP hooked up, and I run Valvoline 2 stroke oil. about 6ozs per tank for regurlar driving, about about 10oz, for a tank that will get used for track days or auto-x.
I have though about disconnecting my OMP, but since it it a daily driver I really dont care to toast my motor when I forget to put pre-mix in.
09-03-03, 09:54 PM
#22
since when do they make synthetic 2 stroke?
09-03-03, 11:16 PM
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I don't put syn premix in my RX7, but if I did I would use the mobil 1 synthetic premix. Why? It's relatively cheap, and the cleanest burning, best lubricating premix I've found for my motocross bike. Many teardowns have shown that it just doesn't gum up, and lubes far better than all the other premixes i've tried. Also, very clean burning.
09-03-03, 11:23 PM
#24
FD > FB > FC
Originally posted by Northern 7
I just had a chat with the guys at Racing Beat - they say you do not need to use premix with synthetic's. Their standing is that syn. oils will burn as mineral based oils do - only at higher temps (and not that much higher) and do nto leave a residue
They also noted that Royal Purple will be completing a document on the use of syn oils in rotary's that will be published on both their site and RB's site in October '03. The document will completely endorse the use of syn's in rotarys (although it will most likely be biased toward their product).
It is both the belief of Royal P and RB that syn's are a better alternative to mineral oil in rotary engines for all the same reasons they are so popular in piston engines.
That's good enough for me - I'm going with syn's
I just had a chat with the guys at Racing Beat - they say you do not need to use premix with synthetic's. Their standing is that syn. oils will burn as mineral based oils do - only at higher temps (and not that much higher) and do nto leave a residue
They also noted that Royal Purple will be completing a document on the use of syn oils in rotary's that will be published on both their site and RB's site in October '03. The document will completely endorse the use of syn's in rotarys (although it will most likely be biased toward their product).
It is both the belief of Royal P and RB that syn's are a better alternative to mineral oil in rotary engines for all the same reasons they are so popular in piston engines.
That's good enough for me - I'm going with syn's
