Tylerx7fb

I have an 84 gs with a gsl limited slip rear end which has an axle leak. It's not a horrible leak but after a few months of owning and driving it daily, it has developed a droning sound. Sometimes it sounds like a flat tire. Anyways, I have gone about the task of replacing the rear bearings and well, no progress is made. I can't get past the brake rotors. I can't find any write ups including the brake rotors. I took the two retainin bolts out but they won't budge. Any help is apprecited this thing is a pain and I just want to drive it the diff fluid has never gotten low, I check it often. But I read the fluid can wash the grease out of the bearings, making them fail.

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

Where's the leak coming from?

Diff fluid doesn't lube the rear axle shaft bearings. Rear axle bearings are sealed, if they're worn out they need to be replaced. You most likely will need a hydraulic press to install them.

As for the brake disk, if the caliper bracket is off and the retaining screws are out, it's probably just seized on to the axle hub. Some taps with a rubber mallet from the back side should shake it off.

Have you downloaded a manual from foxed.ca ?

Joe428

Once you remove the two bolts (14 mm I think) for the caliper it should be free. It will still be attached by the park brake cable and the brake line though. The rotor is held on by two screws that are near the lug bolt holes.

After that you have to remove the three nuts (12mm I think) from the backing plate then tap the axle out. The axle bearing isn't super tight in the housing but it still requires some force to remove. The bearings themselves need to be pressed on/off.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Easier to install a spare tire backwards, lug bolts loose so you can use the tire as a puller

Tylerx7fb

Thanks for the help guys. I have tried pulling a wheel attached to the rotor but it didnt work. And the leak is at the end of the axle on the drive side. It leaks all over the inside of the wheel when I'm driving. Doesn't leak as much when it's parked. I'll try again tonight with a rubber mallet. I just don't want to damage the rotors, they aren't cheap.

Tylerx7fb

Ok so I got the axle out and the rotor off. How would you go about taking the collar off? and are those spot welds from factory or did someone else do it? I wasn't expecting it to be welded just pressed.

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

They sure didn't come welded from the factory.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Spot weld is not a bad idea. Just be careful grinding the spot welds as you dont want to go too deep and ruin the axle. Grind a little bit, drink a cold beer, grind some more, drink some more beer lol

Tylerx7fb

Damn. I don't really have the experience or tools to be messing with this just yet. How exactly are the axle shafts and bearings lubricated? There wasnt much oil or grease on the axle except a bit around the splines. The bearing seems fine but the noise happens around 30+ mph and after about a mile of driving. I'll check the other side. If it is the bearings guess I'll have to test my luck and take it to a shop.

Joe428

Those welds are very much not factory. The outer axle bearings are packed with grease and the seal keeps the oil inside the housing and away from those bearings. I doubt that attempting to repack the bearings is going to help. If they are going out your best bet is to bite the bullet and replace them. A shop should be able to grind those welds then do the pressing of the bearings.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Well thats one way to make sure the collar stays on. Wonder what else was over-repaired like that?

Grinding the welds off could leave less area for th new collar to make a good friction fit on. I would
think about getting different axles but thats just me.

Tylerx7fb

The previous owner was starting to build it for racing, so idk maybe it was extra insurance? I was figuring on buying new axles but I definitely can't afford it now haha. And I figured out how exactly the axles are oiled. So the leak probably screwed the bearing. I bet I'm gonna have fun when I eventually restomod this thing xD

Tylerx7fb

I just wanted to post an update.
The driver side axle and bearings seemed fine except the seal leak. The passenger side however is a completely different story. I couldn't get the rotor off and I couldn't get the axle to move even a millimeter. And it makes a horrible rubbing/grinding noise when the axle spins.
And just to top it off my clutch slave went, so I had fun replacing and bleeding the damned system for hours :/
So I decided I'm going to take it to a shop and have them crack the passenger axle out and replace what needs to be replaced. Thank you to everyone who helped me learn something

Arcolithe

let us know, I found a parts car and bought the whole rear differential for $120 on the grounds that I removed it myself.
bought the glass hatch and a few other parts for $100 too but hey, just letting you know it may be cheaper to buy another used differential that may not be tinkered with so much.

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

Tack welds on the axle/retainer are a common racer trick. it keeps the collars from coming loose. Eventually racing kills the bearings but the tacks keep the collar where they should be.


Grind the welds off and take the axles to a an automotive machine shop to get the press work done. Anyone familiar with a 8 or 9" Ford axle will know what to do.

Tylerx7fb

I took it to a shop. The driver side bearing I posted earlier was fine. The passenger side I guess was either never replaced or replaced a long, long time ago bease of how bad it was. It cost $198 for labor, parts, and press work. Next time I have to do this I hope I have the right tools. Just needed it done asap this time. Thanks for you help