My sputtering '83 GSL
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
My sputtering '83 GSL
So I've rebuilt the carb, removed the rats nest and unclogged my catalytic converters. I've also replaced the spark plugs, wires and distributor cap.
My symptoms are as follows:
1. Low power
2. Sputters but runs much smoother with the choke pulled out. It accelerates a bit better with the choke pulled as well.
It had more power before I rebuilt the carb but I rebuilt it in order to replace the accelerator pump bc I thought it may have been what made it sputter.
I haven't had time to check the compression but I need an engine rebuild down the road anyway because of a dowel pin leak.
Any ideas would be much appreciated!
My symptoms are as follows:
1. Low power
2. Sputters but runs much smoother with the choke pulled out. It accelerates a bit better with the choke pulled as well.
It had more power before I rebuilt the carb but I rebuilt it in order to replace the accelerator pump bc I thought it may have been what made it sputter.
I haven't had time to check the compression but I need an engine rebuild down the road anyway because of a dowel pin leak.
Any ideas would be much appreciated!
#2
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Still sounds like your carb isn't completely cleaned out or the fuel pressure is low. Check fuel
pressure (2.5-3 psi) and flow (about 1/2 gal per sec). If that checks out ok, then pull the carb
and reclean it. You have some small passages that aren't flowing at idle, pulling the choke riches
the mixture and is probably why it runs better.
Helps to use air pressure on the passages.
pressure (2.5-3 psi) and flow (about 1/2 gal per sec). If that checks out ok, then pull the carb
and reclean it. You have some small passages that aren't flowing at idle, pulling the choke riches
the mixture and is probably why it runs better.
Helps to use air pressure on the passages.
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
Still sounds like your carb isn't completely cleaned out or the fuel pressure is low. Check fuel
pressure (2.5-3 psi) and flow (about 1/2 gal per sec). If that checks out ok, then pull the carb
and reclean it. You have some small passages that aren't flowing at idle, pulling the choke riches
the mixture and is probably why it runs better.
Helps to use air pressure on the passages.
pressure (2.5-3 psi) and flow (about 1/2 gal per sec). If that checks out ok, then pull the carb
and reclean it. You have some small passages that aren't flowing at idle, pulling the choke riches
the mixture and is probably why it runs better.
Helps to use air pressure on the passages.
#4
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Another way to judge fuel delivery is the float levels. Are they at the 1/2 mark in the windows?
Does it stay there when you give it gas? If so your fuel delivery is probably adequate at least
for getting idle working. I would bet the base plate of the carb has some of the minute passages
block that are key to the idle circuit.
You can try using SeaFoam in the gas or spraying the carb liberally with carb cleaner, you may
knock some crud loose and fix it.
Does it stay there when you give it gas? If so your fuel delivery is probably adequate at least
for getting idle working. I would bet the base plate of the carb has some of the minute passages
block that are key to the idle circuit.
You can try using SeaFoam in the gas or spraying the carb liberally with carb cleaner, you may
knock some crud loose and fix it.
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
Another way to judge fuel delivery is the float levels. Are they at the 1/2 mark in the windows?
Does it stay there when you give it gas? If so your fuel delivery is probably adequate at least
for getting idle working. I would bet the base plate of the carb has some of the minute passages
block that are key to the idle circuit.
You can try using SeaFoam in the gas or spraying the carb liberally with carb cleaner, you may
knock some crud loose and fix it.
Does it stay there when you give it gas? If so your fuel delivery is probably adequate at least
for getting idle working. I would bet the base plate of the carb has some of the minute passages
block that are key to the idle circuit.
You can try using SeaFoam in the gas or spraying the carb liberally with carb cleaner, you may
knock some crud loose and fix it.
I'll also zap it with a bunch of carb cleaner.
My idle speed is really high (1800 rpm) but I haven't been able to find any vacuum leaks yet.
#6
Full Member
Thread Starter
Well I got the idle speed back down to about 850 rpm by adjusting the idle speed screw.
I checked the flow rate from the fuel pump and it was putting out about 26 ml/sec. According the factory service manual it should be at about 18.3 ml/sec. I haven't had time to check the pressure yet but I borrowed a tool from my local Autozone so I'll check that asap.
I checked the flow rate from the fuel pump and it was putting out about 26 ml/sec. According the factory service manual it should be at about 18.3 ml/sec. I haven't had time to check the pressure yet but I borrowed a tool from my local Autozone so I'll check that asap.
#7
Senior Member
An higher flow rate is not an issue that means you pump is pumping the minimum is 18.3 ml/s or 1100ml/min (that is what the book says: Feeding capacity more then 1100ml/min)
The pressure must be between 2.6 en 3.3bar (I think) or between 0.26 and 0.33 kg/cm²
The pressure must be between 2.6 en 3.3bar (I think) or between 0.26 and 0.33 kg/cm²
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#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
I borrowed a pressure gauge to test the pump but I couldn't get a reading. I may have to get a pro to measure it for me.
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