This will raise your spring rate and makes back to back testing very difficult so beware. Your 375lb springs will become 385 or 395 or whatever if you cut them. I am going to go with 7" 350lb springs based loosely on Alvin's info, I will be able to go .5" inch above the front wheels or higher and this wont mess with the front geometry too much, 6" is a very small amount of spring compression which is why I want to eept the extra inch of travel. This will give me a baseline to work from: an educated guess is more accurate. remember drivers style and preference also makes a difference.

 

isnt 350 lb springs a bit on the stiff side
the stock spring rate is like 100 lbs or there about right?

 

Coilovers are not comparable to the stock springs due to their narrow diameter, I dont remember the exact difference but it is substantial, trust me on a 2.25 diameter spring 350 lb is conservative. and remember your rear end is lighter than your front by 50% or so which is why 175lb rear is a good base line.

 

well, i should comment that the goal of this car is a potent autoxer/roadracer, and most road race first gens actually run in the 350-400 front and 150-200 rear, therefore, it is a bit on the stiff side for a streetcar, but for my purpose, it's about right. and as for choosing spring lenghts, it will also depend on the spring rates you decide to run.

Like i said, i have an autox tomorrow so we'll see how effective the springrates are.

Alvin

 

Current situation for those involved

monster7 Deposit paid
RustyRotary Deposit paid
aussiesmg Mon 10/31
clubber Wed 11/2
smnc Fri 11/4
OtakuRX Fri 11/4
fcdrifter13 Tues 11/8

This remains open until these deposits are paid then the buy is closed.

 

What are the dates?

 

I just wanted to point out that a spring rate is a number derived from the Overall Diameter, Number Of Coils and the Diameter Of The Wire. Stock spring rates are low by design of the small wire size used and wound with low number of coils.

A "Coil Over" spring has large diameter wire, small outside diameter and is wound tightly to increase coil count. This is where the increased rate comes from.

A stock low spring rate is used on production vehicles for increased comfort to the driver as well as compliance that gives the average driver a "predictable" feel for grip. It may not be the best or most grip, but it is predictable.

Shocks are used to control the motion of the spring when it contracts and expands. Softer shocks for lighter spring rates and harder shocks for higher spring rates. The use of a 350 pound spring with a stock valve shock will lead to the springs overcoming the shocks.

When using adjustable lower spring seats you need to keep 2 things in mind. 1) They are used in motorsports to corner weight the car more so than to adjust ride height. Using them without access to a set of scales to properly set them up can lead to a very ill handling car. 2) You could, without knowing, introduce pre-load into your front sway bar which can lead to a ill-handling car as well.

-billy

 

The solution to this is to change the length of your sway bar end links if required. This can occur with regular lowering springs also.

I was just giving a simple answer to a simple question regarding the direct comparison of stock spring rates against 2.25 diameter coil springs. Fact is 100lb stock rate is not directly comparable to the 350lb (average) coilover rate. Due to the reasons the Billy so eloquently and correctly stated.

 

[QUOTE=aussiesmg]The solution to this is to change the length of your sway bar end links if required. This can occur with regular lowering springs also.[QUOTE]

We are working on a fix for that at the moment as well.

Aussiemg, Don't take my post as contradictory. Not the case. I just get long winded when it comes to suspension stuff. You should have seen how long the post was before I toned it down

-billy

 

Thanks for the lesson Billy!

 

I understand, there are a lot of guys doing coil overs so they can get maximum lowering for shows, but I'm a driver and mine will be used for handling per your description. By the way you were very easy to understand.

Steve

 

Spoke to Tom today, he's planning on starting these units this week, 14 days or less until they're ready.

3 paid so far.

Steve

 

Spencer cant send you any messages your storage is full.

Steve

 

So, now that this is all started, What do turn-in spacers do? Does anybody know of a good rear kit anywhere?

 

Rear kits are easier as they are an easy replacement coil over that utilises the factory rear mounts.

I am working on some options for the rear and will let you know what I find.

Spacers are there because when you lower the front end it affects the geometry in a negative manner, so these spacers restore the front end geometry.

 

4 paid to date, need updates from SMNC and OtakuRX

 

someone else needs to get in on this i want my suspension

 

I'd love to have this setup. Donations accepted through mail, paypal....

=)

Jesse

 

I take it I'm being let down without explanation by SMNC and OtakuRX, thanks guys, your turn will come. This is why people dont follow through on supplying to us.

As an aside I have an extra set of this suspension for the 1st to pay for it, deposits are due now.

 

Would the stock struts work with this kit? I understand the bearing diameter is 5/8 id, but what is the dia on the stock strut rods?
Damn this kit is tempting..
How do these coilover kits hold up over time? Spherical bearings last forever right? =) No problems with the adjustable "nut" portion of the lower perch freezing on the threaded portion of the lower perch? Or for that matter, stripping the threads off the lower perch section?
overly cautious as usual,
Jesse

 

Aussiesmg check your pm, I'm in. Greg

 

sbcrx007, I'll see if i can answer your questions. I would not recommend using your stock struts simply because your stock struts are at least 20 years old at this point. Most (if not all) aftermarket struts will work as long as the head is turned down a bit (easily done at a machine shop or with a dremel). as for how they hold up, only time will tell, but i wouldn't worry about the thread stripping, they are fairly course thread and can take a lot of stress. As for freezing, this uses a hex bolt on the collar, so it shouldn't be a big problem, but again i can't promise anything...

Alvin

 

RX7widebodtyGTO looks like you're it, PM sent, welcome aboard. That's five, anybody else needs to go for it now or else it will be too late. Tom can do more but he'll just start what he has paid for, so there wont be extras later.

I am willing to have anybody who buys these come to my place and we'll do a groupd install. I'm 30 miles East of Ft Wayne IN on US30.

Stock strut rods are metric. Avoid the perches from freezing by using an anti freeze compound when you install them, same as used on O2 sensors.

 

status?

 

[Stock strut rods are metric. Avoid the perches from freezing by using an anti freeze compound when you install them, same as used on O2 sensors.[/QUOTE]

Anti-Seize right?