gauging interests, front suspension package
10-18-05, 11:11 PM
#51
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nothing's been sold or anything yet. I want to ensure a smooth installation and then i'll talk to the machinist and see how he wants to handle it. I'll try to get some order info tomorrow.
In terms of transaction, all of it is going to go through him, i just want to make the connect between supply and demand.
Alvin
In terms of transaction, all of it is going to go through him, i just want to make the connect between supply and demand.
Alvin
10-19-05, 06:20 PM
#52
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ok, captain's log...
I've finished disassembly (it takes time when you don't have the right tools =( and have started parts of the upgrade. Because the disassembly is pretty standard, I'm not going to go into too much details. Basically, jack up the car, remove the front brake calipers, and remove the strut/spring/spindle unit. Actually if you follow the service manual, you could also remove the brake rotor from the spindle. But i got lazy.
Part two of the disassembly, using a spring compressor, compress the spring and zip the top nut off. Then you need to remove the inner strut from the assembly. (actually, if you are still running stock struts, you'd remove the innerts of the strut) I'm recommend at this point that you get new struts actually if you are still running stock...
ok, let's start with pic one here, which is the picture of the actual victum, my 82 gsl. The car already has konis and eibach pro springs, but for this excercise, the eibachs are going to be replaced with some 2 1/4" ID, 8" long, 375 lb springs from eibach. The goal of this car is autox/track/daily driver, so the springs are a bit on the stiff side.
Pic 2 is a picture of the strut housing and strut inserts. I was going to get them turned down today, but i ran out of time and i'll probably have them done first thing tomorrow morning. The struts shaft on the top has to be turned down a bit to fit into the spherical bearing on top. (pic 3)
Pic 4 is what i got with the kit plus the springs i ordered from eibach, you will have the camberplates, coilover collars, bearings, spacers, and turnin spacers. What you will need in addition is a set of springs (ref previously listed specs), a thing of JB weld, and four bolts to replace the stock ones due to the extra thickness of the turn in spacers. The bolts are not included because several thickness spacers are included and that would include too many variations.
see next post for more...
I've finished disassembly (it takes time when you don't have the right tools =( and have started parts of the upgrade. Because the disassembly is pretty standard, I'm not going to go into too much details. Basically, jack up the car, remove the front brake calipers, and remove the strut/spring/spindle unit. Actually if you follow the service manual, you could also remove the brake rotor from the spindle. But i got lazy.
Part two of the disassembly, using a spring compressor, compress the spring and zip the top nut off. Then you need to remove the inner strut from the assembly. (actually, if you are still running stock struts, you'd remove the innerts of the strut) I'm recommend at this point that you get new struts actually if you are still running stock...
ok, let's start with pic one here, which is the picture of the actual victum, my 82 gsl. The car already has konis and eibach pro springs, but for this excercise, the eibachs are going to be replaced with some 2 1/4" ID, 8" long, 375 lb springs from eibach. The goal of this car is autox/track/daily driver, so the springs are a bit on the stiff side.
Pic 2 is a picture of the strut housing and strut inserts. I was going to get them turned down today, but i ran out of time and i'll probably have them done first thing tomorrow morning. The struts shaft on the top has to be turned down a bit to fit into the spherical bearing on top. (pic 3)
Pic 4 is what i got with the kit plus the springs i ordered from eibach, you will have the camberplates, coilover collars, bearings, spacers, and turnin spacers. What you will need in addition is a set of springs (ref previously listed specs), a thing of JB weld, and four bolts to replace the stock ones due to the extra thickness of the turn in spacers. The bolts are not included because several thickness spacers are included and that would include too many variations.
see next post for more...
10-19-05, 06:48 PM
#54
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ok, i'm having trouble loading pics, i'm not sure why as my pictures in the past have worked just fine. Let me know if you know what's wrong. Otherwise, I'll continue the write up.
The next thing i did was to attach the collar to the strut housing, the machinist suggested using jb weld to the strut housing. I don't view this as a very critical process, as with the spring tension, it's not going anyway. I know that ground control uses a couple of set screws for this, but i'll do the jb weld anyway as suggested.
If i was able to post pic, pic 5 would be a picture of the strut housing. jb weld recommends a clean/dry/oil free surface, perhaps even a roughen sanded surface. I proceeded to roughen up the surface with course sand paper and cleaned it up with some chemtool and paper towel (also cleaned the inside of the collar with some chemtool as well). I then mixed a batch of jb weld (about 1/3 of a tube for each side) and attached the collar to the strut housing. Make sure not to get jb weld onto the treaded surface of the strut, as you'll need to screw the cap back on later. Pic 6 would be the cleaned surface with sandpaper and chemtool, pic 7 is jb weld spread over the housing, and pic 8 is the collar attached to the housing after jb weld is applied. the assembled units are now in my shed drying overnite as recommended by jb weld.
hopefully, tomorrow i'll get the strut turned down and finish assembly.
Alvin
The next thing i did was to attach the collar to the strut housing, the machinist suggested using jb weld to the strut housing. I don't view this as a very critical process, as with the spring tension, it's not going anyway. I know that ground control uses a couple of set screws for this, but i'll do the jb weld anyway as suggested.
If i was able to post pic, pic 5 would be a picture of the strut housing. jb weld recommends a clean/dry/oil free surface, perhaps even a roughen sanded surface. I proceeded to roughen up the surface with course sand paper and cleaned it up with some chemtool and paper towel (also cleaned the inside of the collar with some chemtool as well). I then mixed a batch of jb weld (about 1/3 of a tube for each side) and attached the collar to the strut housing. Make sure not to get jb weld onto the treaded surface of the strut, as you'll need to screw the cap back on later. Pic 6 would be the cleaned surface with sandpaper and chemtool, pic 7 is jb weld spread over the housing, and pic 8 is the collar attached to the housing after jb weld is applied. the assembled units are now in my shed drying overnite as recommended by jb weld.
hopefully, tomorrow i'll get the strut turned down and finish assembly.
Alvin
10-19-05, 07:45 PM
#56
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i was trying to get them onto the rx7club mange file thingy. I've had no problem before, I thought i used up all of my space or something so i deleted some older pics, but that didn't help... let me try this again... nope, still not working...
10-20-05, 01:09 AM
#58
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help
can you guys try loading your own pictures? i think it's something wrong with the upload tool? I just tried to upload a photo i've uploaded to the forum before, but it doesnt' seem to be working...
Alvin
Alvin
10-20-05, 09:18 AM
#59
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I have webspace I can lend you... e-mail me the pics
smnc@hotmail.com and I'll put them up...
smnc@hotmail.com and I'll put them up...
10-20-05, 03:29 PM
#61
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^lol, sorry, i'll try photobucket next time, actually smnc was kind enough to host some of the pictures, and i'll post them in a bit, i just got home, and i'm going to do some more assembly and take some more pictures before i post them.
be back in an hour or two...
Alvin
be back in an hour or two...
Alvin
10-20-05, 08:21 PM
#63
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ok, i'm back, i hit a bit of a bump today, i lost one of the top strut nuts, but i was able to get one side put together.
anyway, first, let's look at the pictures from yesterday.
Pic1
Pic2
Pic3
Pic4
Pic5
Pic6
Pic7
Pic8
anyway, first, let's look at the pictures from yesterday.
Pic1
Pic2
Pic3
Pic4
Pic5
Pic6
Pic7
Pic8
10-20-05, 08:37 PM
#64
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Day2
Alright, day two-
I had the top of the struts turned down by the machinist so that the 5/8" sphereical bearing would fit over the shaft (see pic 9) I've read that people do this with a dremel and i'm sure it'd work as well, infact, if you do go this route, you might not need to remove the strut from the housing body.
On to assembly. I reinstalled the modified strut to the housing (actually, Koni recommends that either 50 ml or coolant or oil be put into the housing to improve heat disapation, not sure about tokicos. (pic 10)
Then I took the top hat (camber plate) and removed the four hex bolts on top. Removed the top piece, and inserted a plastic spacers (included in the kit). I than also inserted the sphereical bearing. This is a tight fit, and a bit of motor oil and just work it in there (don't try to force it). reattach the top piece to the top hat with the plastic spacer and bearing in it. (see pic 11, 12, 13, and 14)
I had the top of the struts turned down by the machinist so that the 5/8" sphereical bearing would fit over the shaft (see pic 9) I've read that people do this with a dremel and i'm sure it'd work as well, infact, if you do go this route, you might not need to remove the strut from the housing body.
On to assembly. I reinstalled the modified strut to the housing (actually, Koni recommends that either 50 ml or coolant or oil be put into the housing to improve heat disapation, not sure about tokicos. (pic 10)
Then I took the top hat (camber plate) and removed the four hex bolts on top. Removed the top piece, and inserted a plastic spacers (included in the kit). I than also inserted the sphereical bearing. This is a tight fit, and a bit of motor oil and just work it in there (don't try to force it). reattach the top piece to the top hat with the plastic spacer and bearing in it. (see pic 11, 12, 13, and 14)
10-20-05, 08:57 PM
#65
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more pics
pic 14-19
Ok, now make sure you have the perch threaded onto the collar. Also insert the bump stop if you want to use it (i'd recommend it) and make sure the supplied silican padding is present both on the perch and on the bottom of the top plate.
rest spring on the perch on top of the silican pad, place the camber plate over the spring (again, make sure the pad is there). Place the supplied metal spacer on top of the sphereical bearing (note that this spacer is directional, the lip goes toward the bottom. Also note that the camber plates are left right specific, the numbers point toward the front of the car. Then finish it all up by zipping the stock top nut and lock washer. that's pretty much it, just mount into the car. I need to go find that nut and also bolts for the spacers before i can complete the assembly, so this will have to wait till monday, sorry.
I've also given the machinist a link to this thread, so he might be posting on anything i miss and also contact information for you guys who want to order a set.
Alvin
Ok, now make sure you have the perch threaded onto the collar. Also insert the bump stop if you want to use it (i'd recommend it) and make sure the supplied silican padding is present both on the perch and on the bottom of the top plate.
rest spring on the perch on top of the silican pad, place the camber plate over the spring (again, make sure the pad is there). Place the supplied metal spacer on top of the sphereical bearing (note that this spacer is directional, the lip goes toward the bottom. Also note that the camber plates are left right specific, the numbers point toward the front of the car. Then finish it all up by zipping the stock top nut and lock washer. that's pretty much it, just mount into the car. I need to go find that nut and also bolts for the spacers before i can complete the assembly, so this will have to wait till monday, sorry.
I've also given the machinist a link to this thread, so he might be posting on anything i miss and also contact information for you guys who want to order a set.
Alvin
10-21-05, 12:12 AM
#68
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that's what's going to happen, i'm sending him an email tonight with a link this this tread and i'm hoping he'd sign up for rx7club and give out his contact and stuff.
alvin
alvin
10-23-05, 07:11 PM
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well, I did send the machinist the link to this thread, but just incase, here is the contact info.
His shop name is beeline manufacturing, His name is Tom Burns, and his phone number is 408-567-0857, like i mention from the beginning, the price is with 5 orders (because he'd actually have to manufacture them, nothing has been made yet), so i don't know how many people are actually going through with this, so the price and pretty much everything else is up to him, though he is a very nice and reasonable guy.
And the current status of my install is i need to run to a specialty nuts and bolts store tomorrow to complete my install, i should be able to have the fronts back together by tomorrow...
Alvin
Alvin
His shop name is beeline manufacturing, His name is Tom Burns, and his phone number is 408-567-0857, like i mention from the beginning, the price is with 5 orders (because he'd actually have to manufacture them, nothing has been made yet), so i don't know how many people are actually going through with this, so the price and pretty much everything else is up to him, though he is a very nice and reasonable guy.
And the current status of my install is i need to run to a specialty nuts and bolts store tomorrow to complete my install, i should be able to have the fronts back together by tomorrow...
Alvin
Alvin
10-23-05, 08:09 PM
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well,like i said before, it will be hard to put in an "order" until we know how many people are interested, but give him a call and let him know... i'm not sure how this will work, but you can also email him at bunchofbul@yahoo.com.
And i don't know if he has paypal...
Alvin
And i don't know if he has paypal...
Alvin