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Take out the 2 knuckle to strut bolts then you can turn the strut independently from the knuckle.
They're different lengths, make a note of which is front/back, and don't forget to torque them at the end of the job.
Take out the 2 knuckle to strut bolts then you can turn the strut independently from the knuckle.
They're different lengths, make a note of which is front/back, and don't forget to torque them at the end of the job.
Yeah i did that when i disassembled everything, now im putting it back together and i tought id find a way of avoiding this each time i want to replace the rotors....
I have a Cornwell Tools offset box 15mm and14mm wrench from this set https://webcat.cornwelltools.com/WBM...int-p371692471 that will fit that bolt. Previous to that, I ground down a box end 14mm to get it to fit. So go to Harbor Freight and get some cheap wrenches to experiment with
What I usually do is back it off with a box wrench until just before it's too close to the steering arm to use a box wrench, then use an open end wrench until it bottoms out against the steering arm, then loosen the wheel bearing so the rotor can move away.
I knew a guy who used to remove the washer and shorten the bolt a bit so that you could remove the bolt without moving the rotor. Those strut to steering arm bolts don't always come out.
I have a Cornwell Tools offset box 15mm and14mm wrench from this set https://webcat.cornwelltools.com/WBM...int-p371692471 that will fit that bolt. Previous to that, I ground down a box end 14mm to get it to fit. So go to Harbor Freight and get some cheap wrenches to experiment with
Oh nice i will go to my local store later today to get some of those!
I haven't done it yet, but I was reading the procedure in the Haynes manual and it talks about having to pry on something to get room for a box end to break it loose. Then turn it little by little with an open end. Sounds like a pain.