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I am putting a beehive on (from an 84 or so donor) because I just rebuilt my 82 12A engine, the old FMOC is toast, the oil lines look like they are toast and well, the beehive was factory used for several years so it cant be so bad for an occasional driver (not racing).
I have almost everything I need except my engine needs this part (picture) installed (I have it) - has anyone dealt with this modification? My question specifically has to do with this coolant water fitting in the picture - is it removable (I am afraid not), Do i cut off and just clamp it in? Do i need to expand the ends like the factory so that it doesn't work its way off the hose at ~12psi? My stock 82 does not have that tee fitting. I know it seems minor, but if someone has gone down this path before - please speak up! I don't have tools for welding or brazing...
Thanks,
Scott
Maybe this is the simplest approach
Last edited by Scott1982; Sep 12, 2020 at 10:16 AM.
I have cut it a little cause you need some more place but it works with the part you postet. You also need the bigger rad and the pipe mounted on the firewall out of the S3
Last edited by Rx7fb spirit r; Sep 12, 2020 at 10:29 AM.
Thanks - I have a relatively new unused radiator but hadn't thought about its capacity!
Scott
I thought it. You will get more engine reliability with the front mount oil cooler. The beehive will let warm up the engine quicker cause of smoke test and fuel economy.
I thought it. You will get more engine reliability with the front mount oil cooler. The beehive will let warm up the engine quicker cause of smoke test and fuel economy.
Well given it is 38 years old - I doubt it will even see a 1 hour trip for the rest of its life! So I am not too worried about longevity at this point if that makes sense? I figured if it was good enough for 84 and 85 12A's it will certainly be good for mine.
i've seen people use a T like you show before, that would work.
the beehive works totally fine, it warms the oil up faster, and keeps it at a constant temp better, which is good. the bad part is that the radiator is doing 100% of the cooling, and as such it needs to be good, lots of 83-85 12A's die due to mild overheating
I really like my beehive cooler, once I took it apart and learned how it works. My car never runs more than 1/4 on the dash. I'm sure they both work well.
Yeah! finally some respect for the Beehive. On other forums the so called (racers) will tell you the cars going to explode if you're running one. They work well for a regular street driven car. I thought the T on mine was threaded into the iron. I could not find a replacement for this part and just reused it. If you don't have all the hose's, pipes, radiator, shroud, etc. It may just be cheaper/easier to fix the FMOC.
Last edited by lwrobins; Sep 13, 2020 at 07:28 AM.
Yeah! finally some respect for the Beehive. On other forums the so called (racers) will tell you the cars going to explode if you're running one. They work well for a regular street driven car. I thought the T on mine was threaded into the iron. I could not find a replacement for this part and just reused it. If you don't have all the hose's, pipes, radiator, shroud, etc. It may just be cheaper/easier to fix the FMOC.
For me it solves the leaky FMOC problem and well I had the beehive so why not. It is not like my car will be driven like it was in 1982! It is freaking 38 yrs old now - she deserves to be treated like a queen!
Scott
Thanks all for inputs on this!
Hopefully I get time to get the engine in soon. I spent an hour grinding off one of the motor mounts (it was on a stripped stud). All set for the nice new ones - thanks RAuto!
A little late, where in NY are you? I have a spare 12a sitting around with the beehive still on there. I'd be interested in a trade for your fmoc (condition isn't an issue), I can yank the parts off mine so you can see how they are connected. Pretty sure it's just a press fit into the rear iron.