thoughts? concerns? think they would work in our car?

http://www.briskusa.com/


here's a thread relating to their performance..

http://www.nloc.net/forum/showthread...0&pagenumber=1

 

The USA branch of Brisk is fairly new. They are real big in Europe, though.
Try www.brisk.cz
All the '03-'04 Cobra guys have been starting to talk about the PREMIUM "LGS" spark plugs they offer.
Linky: http://www.lightningforceperformance...productID=1166
I am thinking of trying these in my Cobra. The people that have tried them say they saw 10RWHP/10RWTQ gains. I think the gains are in way the plug burns, in that sparks in three directions at the same time, because the spark blow-out that a lot of the Cobra guys see on the dyno was gone with the new plugs. These plugs also seem to like multiple heat ranges, instead of having to move to a colder plug with higher cylinder pressures, you can get away with leaving these plugs in without any issues. Lightning Performance tested these plugs on stock '03-'04 Cobras to Kenne Bell and Whipple powered '03-'04 Cobras using the same heat-range plug and noticed it burned the same in all the cars with no signs of overheating in the 600+RWHP Cobras. From what I hear, all the performance shops in the area that attended the testing of these plugs have ordered these plugs for their Cobra's and Lightning's.
These plugs are expensive, though. Right now they are $89 for a set of 8 shipped at Lightning Performance. They call it their introductory price, so the price might go up.
I know our Rotaries are not the greatest at completely burning the air/fuel mixtures, so I'm sure these plugs could help alittle for the N/A rotaries, and could help the Turbo'd and Supercharged rotaries a lot more.

 

Don't know if they wil work on a rotory they say it moves the spark farther into the chamber i would worry that it might not clear the apex seals.

 

The heat range determines the length of the plug. The hotter the plug the further it goes into the chamber. Colder plugs move out away from the chamber. Picking the right heat range will keep the plug from hitting the apex seals.

 

Damn, and I though NGKs were odd....wonder how they'd fair in a rotary.

 

Hey, Solid Snake...2F2F @ SVTP and MF here =>) ...
I ordered a set of LGS 17 plugs from Strictly last week...
I'll give you guys a conservative SOTP review as I do not plan versus dyno runs...
I installed a Plasma Booster last week (to prevent top-end blow out)...
I am currently running the AR103 plugs (highly recommended)...
I ran the Denso IT-22 plugs previous to that...
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Nope. Its plug reach that determines overall length. Heat range is just the amount of insulator and how much of it is shrouded. If what you stated was true, then we'd only be able to use a single heat range plug.


If these plugs work as advertised, I can see a small hp gain from unshrouding the spark.

 

Rx7carl is right. If you were to ever look into the tip of a BR8EQ-14 and compare it to a BR9EQ-14, you'd see there is a difference in center electrode insulation length.

I wonder how much more spark energy is required to jump the gap of these new plugs. Can a typical FB cap and rotor setup handle these plugs? I'm sure a direct fire system could, but I think we need more guinea pigs, besides ox03, to try them out first.

 

From what I've been reading on www.modularfords.com as of late, they don't seem to be all that great.

 

they sure do look fantasy, any idea why they would be making less torque on those stangs?

 

Some of the guys commented that it might have been due to engine temp or outside conditions changing.
I noticed on the dyno graph that after they installed the Brisk plugs the higher RPM chop that was on the first 3 runs was a lot less, but no performance gain.
The graph is in this thread:
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=14608

 

Yeah, I had my stuff backwards when I wrote that.
Here's a good description on spark plug heat ranges:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...000&country=US

 

I doubt that you'll find any of these plugs made for a piston engine will fit in a rotary. The total length of the rotary plug is shorter (side fire) and I don't see why they wouldn't utilize the full length of the plug.

 

I'm pretty sure they have a plug that is the right length, somewhere.

 

From: gavin juice
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 11:27 PM
To: plugs@janmax.com
Subject: 85 Mazda RX-7

Looking for plugs for an 85 Mazda RX-7 13B FI. Your site doesn't even list
RX-7's in general, but i know you have something as they have been tested on

this site http://www.silverbulletrx7.com/plugs/ . I currently use 4 NGK's
BR9EQ-14s, if you could possibly cross-reference them that would be awesome.

Thanks ~Gavin

There ya go. Read up on this site as he tests 7 different brands of plugs for ROTARYS. To buy the plugs in the us http://plugs.janmax.com/. Feel free to e-mail him, he responded to my question the next day.

 

I saw that website, and sent the member that owns it a PM.
On his site he said the first set he got where the LOR ones and he mentioned that he needed to get a thin walled socket to install them fully into his 13B-REW. Mazdatrix sells one. He didn't know at the time that anyone sold one, so he got the DOR's and used a standard 5/8 spark plug socket.

 

Hi All,

Yes, I have been testing these plugs for several thousand miles now. Last week I pulled them due to some issues but it turned out to be water related. (I hope) The plugs are holding up GREAT, much better than NGKs. If you take a look at my DYNO section you can see the results of bad plugs and the power loss from running them. I'm convinced NGKs degrade over time in the rotary and cause power loss that isn't noticed. I change mine out every 6K but I'm sure 1st gens are different.

Once the BRISK plugs pass my long term tests I'll try to dyno them. And none of this BS on the other forums of dynoing them after a cool down or back to back with old plugs.

Anyway as my site indicates these plugs have several important differences including the use of silver and a field effect spark much like the torque master brand. I think it should be noted that on the other forums they are dynoing them compared to other normal plugs. This is a surface gap plug, which is standard for rotaries but not normal at all for piston engines. This difference alone could cause a power increase.

Anyway I would not hesitate trying these plugs at all. They are a bit longer than a standard NGK but I tested the clearance in an open housing and there was still over a mm of clearance so as long as you don't run them without a gasket there is no need to worry. (I'm not sure if this holds true to 12As but I would assume so.)

I'll try to watch this thread if there are any questions.