glewsRx

iTrader: (1)

I just got new inner, outer, and connectors from bda. They have what I assume to be grease fittings. Whats the story with these?

How do I get the grease in them? Do I need to buy a grease gun? What kinda grease do I use? Any specific torque

Is there some kinda method I should use to make sure I have the proper amount of grease in the bushing?

I assume I grease them before installing.
Can I just compare the new to the old to put them together for installation so I can get it to a shop for alignment?

Should I use antiseize when assembling them?

Aren't the nuts on the center stud supposed to act as locking nuts? I can turn the tie rods and that moves the nuts. Is that alright?

jaidedeye

your going to need a grease gun.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Just shoot em with the grease gun once they are assembled. Push grease in until you see some ooze out around the seals. Thats it. Every couple of years regrease by doing the same thing until new grease oozes out. Should last forever then.

glewsRx

iTrader: (1)

Assembled or installed?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Installed.

notveryhappyjack

iTrader: (4)

running into this myself. Anyone know why the damm nut spins the stud ? It won't tighten down all the way to get the cotter pin in and I need to figure out a way to spin it 2-3 more threads.

Scott1982

You need to push the taper in to get enough friction to let you tighten the nut. Don't drive until you have this set right!

You "may" be able to tap the back side of the tie rod with a hammer to allow you to tighten the nut. If the nut has the nylon self locking part on it, you may want to substitute another nut to get the unit fully tight, then swap with the self locking after the taper has set. Most of these have the cotter pins (not self locking) for what that is worth

Some people can squeeze with their hands (after carefully tapping/seating with a hammer) and use a socket. An air wrench can be used, but if you spin the unit, you may damage the rubber, not worth the risk if you have not done it before.

In all cases, the key is to stop the rotation at the taper...

glewsRx

iTrader: (1)

Taper?

Scott1982

The "shaft" that is threaded that has to be torqued, is actually tapered in dimension, thicker on the bottom than on the top. The opening that you go push the shaft into is also tapered.

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ab_tal...103494,00.html

notveryhappyjack

iTrader: (4)

It sounds like some sort of clamping device would help holding the center link and tie rod together when tightening down the castle nut.

Scott1982

Your hands pressure will get the job done most of the time but a clamp of some sort would help.