hornbm

Ok My car suddenly made a really bad squeek in the parking lot today. My tie rods are on the way out so I figured it was just the tie rods

I got out of the car, and bounced the front up and down and noticed that if I bounched the left front of the car it would squeek really bad. HMMM so now im thinking the control arm bushing went

I got home and then it wouldnt squeek once I bounced the left side of the car anymore. However whenever I turn the wheel withou the car mooving, it squeeks. THe squeeking will sometimes be when Im turning to the left and sometimes when im turning right.

Im wondering if anybody has some input on exactly what it is. Eiher way I actually ordered new control arms (new bushings) and new innner and outter tierods last week before this even happened.

So can anybody tell me if its the control arm bushings or the tie rods that are doing this? And further more, I drive 60 miles a day, and I need to know if the car is safe to drive till friday when the parts come in.

Kentetsu

Mine does about the same thing. Turning sharply in a parking lot, get a loud squeek. I believe its the spring rotating on the perch.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

The springs should not squeak when turning. The strut assembly has a thrust washer in it, just below the the top of the assembly, that allows the strut top to rotate, the part that bolts into the strut tower. There is a rubber cup the fits on the top of the spring that could be squeaking, but doubtful.

You might check your idler arm bushing on the passenger side frame rail. They have a tendency to wear out. Also check the rubber bushings on the sway bars and the end links and the control rod ends where they bolt into the front frame

GavinJuice

I wanna know how your progress on replacing your control arm bushings goes.

kettlman

iTrader: (2)

come on. jack it up and shake a few things. if you ccan freely push the tie rod bushings up and down, well thats not good. just make sure nothings real loose to were it may break and you'll be good. tie rods don't usually completly break.

680RWHP12A

the bushings might just need to be lubed, try that first,

DBOGGSRX7

Be careful what you use for lube. Lubing rubber bushings with petroleum based oil today is a good way to make sure they are shot next month. Make sure to use a rubber friendly lube like vegetable oil or other such. In order to check the condition of your suspension, it is usually nessecary (sp?) to jack the car up, put it on stands and then put tension on the suspension. Best way is to put jack under tire and lift it a little. Give everything a shakes.

Bruceman

iTrader: (5)

Could be your lower outer control arm balljoints (opposite end from bushings). Maybe the balljoint boots are torn and the joint has lost grease and started to corrode.

Jack the car up in the front and pull out on the bottom of the wheel whilst looking at the ball joint. You should not see any play in the joint.

Bruce

Slammed_GSL

iTrader: (14)

Quote"Could be your lower outer control arm balljoints (opposite end from bushings). Maybe the balljoint boots are torn and the joint has lost grease and started to corrode."Quote

I agree, my bushing was completely dry and loose in the socket, I had to get a complete new control arm due to mazda doesnt sell the bushing alone due to how it's pressed in. You can buy new boots, cut the old ones off, regrease and save alot of money. Takes about 3 hrs for both sides. There is after market bushings but I don't know how well they work, the old bushing is hard to press out, make sure you use a appropriate dies(large socket) to press it out or the control arm will get bent. I did this 2 years ago and it was a chore but worth the effort, felt like new after I was done.

Slammed_GSL

iTrader: (14)

Oh yeah, buy Mazda boots only, the Victoria British are too loose. The OEM boots have a metal ring in the rubber casting that fits very snuggly, read needs to be forced on.