bliffle

Changed the plugs on the 83 last night and I had to use a 2 foot pipe on the ratchet to bust the leading (lower) plugs loose and get them started out. Pretty scarey! Fifty years working on cars and I haven't ruined a plug thread yet, but I always worry about it because the remedy is difficult, especially on the 7 engine with the plugs so inaccessible.

The threads look clean and dry, in spite of the fact that I liberally work anti-sieze into both the internal and external threads before assembly, and I always finger-start the new plug with just the socket to guide it in. I make sure I get a couple full turns before applying a wrench. Then I just use a stubby ratchet to bring it up snug on the crush washer.

I'm using the silvery goop I got from mazdatrix a couple years ago. Seems tenacious, but you never know what happens under heat and pressure. Anybody got a better lube for anti-sieze? In the past I've also used silicon grease because it's slippery under pressure (you gotta be careful to not over-tighten because it continues to slip when other lubes sieze, and you can strip threads if you're not careful). And silicon stands up good under heat.

I was alarmed that the plugs were so hard to get out and the threads were so un-lubed looking. I don't think it was thread distortion because the plugs went in easily and I didn't have to use the thread chaser to clean them out. I use NGKs exclusively.

Anyway, I'm open to using a new anti-sieze: any suggestions or experiences?

B

slashdawg00110

How long had the plugs been in there? Maybe the best idea is to pull them out and reapply anti-sieze periodically.

richlrx7

I use a light coat of Permatex Anti-seize. Its good to +1600 degrees F. Just note, on plugs, a little goes a long way and keep it away from the electrodes.

Dick Elliott

Anything made for use on a pistion airplanes engine. Ask an A&P mechanic.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

How tight are you torquing them on install?? Should be finger tight plus a 1/4-ish turn with the wrench, to seat them...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

bliffle

I just snug them up with a little stubby ratchet about 3-4 inches long and I don't lean on it. Just enough to feel the crush washer collapse. Those new NGKs went in finger tight all the way to the crush washer, so I think the threads are all OK.

When I wrenched out the old plugs it took several turns of the plugs, maybe a quarter inch of travel, to get them loose enough for the stubby to work.

I think I need a new anti-sieze. I'll try that permatex stuff. They sell little packets of anti-sieze at the autostore checkout counter, too.

B

SS124A

All mazda FSM's call for 10 ft/lbs

I don't use anti seize. doesn't provide a very good ground for the spark-plug.

as po-dunk as it sounds, I just stick the threads of the spark-plugs in my mouth... lube them up with some good ol' spit so they thread in easier...

Then again my plugs dont last too long... between the 240 weber main jet, and the Idemitsu Pre-mix

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

i work on helicopters and tomorrow when i got to work i can find out what kinda anti sieze that we on in our turbine engines for our igniter plugs i ll post a reply after i get off work