Crit

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I'm missing the cover, any bushings that might be in it, three screws, the shifter itself, and the ****. The PO took them off as a unit and lost them.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i can send you a shifter and a cover. you might just want to order new bushings though.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Okay, well let me look through my local sources for a junker, and I'll let you know. I just might take you up on your offer It sure is tough to power-shift with your fingertip.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

ok, let me know. i can have one out today if need be. you're lucky to have teh parts you do for your project. i've been looking for a good SE engine for some time now, lol. thats the only part that has eluded me.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

I'll do some looking, but I don't think that the mail will run Monday or Tuesday, so waiting until after Christmas really won't impact delivery time at all. I'm gonna do some legwork before I ask a favor of you.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

ok, just let me know. i have like 4 transmissions that arent being used that i could pull a shifter, the plates, and bolts out of. i'm eaer to see your project go together!

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Well, the good news is that we made a lot of progress. The engine and tranny are in, the wiring harness is in, the injectors and rat's nest are all plumbed, the upper intake and full induction setup is in.

The bad news is that I now have a list of things that weren't in the boxes, including the mini-harness from the big rubber boot on the driver's side that extends to oil pressure, coolant temp, oil level, elec. condenser, and all that stuff.

I also don't have what I need to mount the air box. The rear hanger with the potentiometer is there, but without the shoulder screw that mounts through the rubber bushing. The inner fender has a 3-hole pattern that likely supports the air box, but I have no bracket. The forward mount either comes up from the frame rail, or it comes from the core support. Either way, I don't have it. Ditto with the mount for the coolant reservoir.

The cruise control actuator from a 12A has a cable that's too long, but I can go to a bicycle shop for the little ball at the end so I can shorten mine.

If anyone has pictures of how the airbox is supported, I'd greatly appreciate it. If anyone has the bracketry, then definitely let me know.

Thanks guys,
Crit

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

here my friend, i hope these help you out:












got any pics you'd like to share of your progress? if so, it might help us help you find what you need.

banzaitoyota

self vulcanizing silicone wrap

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Here's where I was at on Sunday, before I had to leave everything for Christmas.

First, the wiring harness.




Then there's all the bracketry stuff that's left over.




And a few shots of the engine bay:









I know that I need to replace all the relays just aft of the driver's left strut and it looks like I have them. I have a number of brackets that seem out-of-place, and I definitely don't have the airbox brackets to the inner fender and radiator support. If anyone's running a cold-air pickup and has abandoned their stock airbox, I'd like to get the brackets from you.

It also looks like the cold-start has a different bracket from the 12A cars, as the one I've got doesn't match any of the holes in the passenger's rear corner of the engine bay.

Anyway, that's where I'm at. Off the top of my head, the two biggest hurdles right now are that I lack the shouldered tranny studs that drop off the body and center the bushings in the tranny crossmemeber. I need those two studs and the lower harness that goes from the triangular rubber dust shield near the steering column to all the little sensor points on the driver's side of the engine (low oil, 5th gear, coolant temp, oil pressure, etc)

Crit

iTrader: (6)

By the way, I've made a post in my regional section regarding what I need to get the car moving and registered. I basically need a starter bolt, driveshaft bolts, SE airbox brackets, tranny crossmember - to - body studs and wiring harness to the engine block senders.

The specific list is HERE, though I expect I'll need to source these locally.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

is the wiring harness cut or missing?

Crit

iTrader: (6)

That lower harness is just missing. I've got the rubber y-shaped boot with two connectors, but no way to get to the block.

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

Hey Crit. If I'm not mistaken, Ray had that harness when we were at the meet. If it's the same for a 12A, it should work. Dude, you are making good progress. When you get that thing up and running, make us a little video.

RX3SP

iTrader: (62)

The 12a harness is different. On the 84-85 12a cars, the water temp and oil pressure sender wires are in the right side emissions harness and on the SE's they are in the left side harness.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

RX3SP is right about the 12A wiring harness coming in from the right and SE coming in from the left, Crit and I just confirmed it. So he's still looking for that left hand harness. Crit if you still need the driveshaft bolts and they are the same as 12A, I should have a set.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

** UPDATE **

Well, she's got electrons now, and nearly everything works. The car had an FC fuse block in it, but 3 of the 5 fuses were blown, so I have to choose which two circuits I want to power at any given time. I can spin the starter and see 30psi of oil pressure, so I feel good about being able to at least start her up shortly. I need some good coolant lines (the molded ones off the firewall) and I'll order them new - hopefully in time for our local meet on the 8th.

I don't hear the fuel pump prime, and I have three wires visible from behind the driver's rear tire, which attach to the tank. It looks from the FSM like they're not for the sender, but I need to find the fuel pump problem. If anyone knows what the 3-conductor plug visible behind the wheel is, I've got no idea.

My other current concern is for the relays floating around. I have 4 or 5 exposed connectors by the ECU, excluding the one that's been disconnected to get the blower motor out to make room for the ECU harness. I have a black lump, maybe a relay, mounted next to the ECU, but lots of connectors without homes. There's also the small cluster of relays that hang from the rolled fender edge on the driver's side, just behind the front strut. There are some relays that hang under the lip, and some that hang outside of it, toward the centerline of the car. I know one of these is the Choke and Check Relay, but the FSM shows a total of 5 that should live there. If someone has a clear idea of what goes where, I'd appreciate it.

Good plug wires should be in tomorrow (I've stolen the trailing in order to feed the dizzy, as my coil wires have disappeared) and I hope to figure what's up with the fuel pump and see if I can put a little fire in her belly.

We'll see.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the first SE engine pic that i posted shows the location of the relays. i'm not sure on the fuel pump wiring... the three pin connector behind the LR tire is most likely for the fuel gauge sending unit. the fuel pump wiring comes into the car through the left storage bin, just like a 12A car. you should be able to follow the wiring to the pump. you should be able to backprobe at the connector in the car and test for 12V while cranking.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, now that I've had time to think about it, I imagine that one of the relays missing from the engine bay is the fuel pump relay. That would fix the problem. I'll have to swing by the scrapyard and get a pocket full of fuses today and reassemble the relay structure.

If anyone has any SE airbox brackets, I'm still in the market

By the way, a BIG thanks to RX3SP for loaning me his original harness to use as a template and providing the starter bolt, ECU coolant sender, water pump neck, and the new lower harness for the gauges.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i have extra relays for an SE if you are missing any. i can send you the one(s) that you are mising.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Now that, I might need. I've only got a few relays on the floor, and a whole lot of plugs looking at me. I'm also looking for a photo of someone's GSL-SE passenger's footwell area to see where all those extra plugs go. Nearly everything else works.

Last night I was able to turn the engine over, flip my lights, make all 3 wipers run, and at least my oil pressure gauge works. I know it's simple, but it made my day. If only I can turn that solid thumping sound from the presilencer into some real flames....

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

For the fuel pump, turn the key to 'ON' and push open the door on the AFM. If everything is hooked up correctly, the fuel pump should run. Also, the injectors/ECU get a signal from the trailing coil, so you'll need to make sure that you have spark on trailing to get it going (should be a blue spade connector that is plugged on the trailing (-) ).

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Well, I didn't have enough intact fuses to turn the engine, fire the coils, and run the gauges. When I've got more fuses, I should be okay if the tach registers the cranking speed, right? I know that I'm getting at least some spark, as the trailing coil was arcing all over the place (not enough plug wires to go around last night).

How do I know that the ECU is getting the tach reference signal, and knows that the engine's cranking? I worry only because the ECU harness isn't connected to the body harness anywhere, so I don't know where it would get that signal. I expected to find a plug between the two in the footwell, but nothing seemed to fit.

Why is it that you have to deflect the AFM in order to arm the fuel pump? Once the car's running, does the AFM never return to the fully closed postion again?

Crit

iTrader: (6)

By the way, if I can resolve the tach signal question and I'm sure that the ECU has what it needs to fire my injectors, how do I actually verify that they're firing? I have a set of noid lights that include Bosch hardware, but it's damn-near impossible to get the electrical plugs off the injectors without pulling the manifold off and all the nonsense associated with it. Can you feel them tick or hear them while an assistant / spouse cranks the engine?

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Yeah. If you have tach, you should have signal to the ECU (if wired). There is a diagram in section 4b in the FSM that showms all the expected voltages at the ECU. That could help to check what things are being powered and which are not. Also, you can use this diagram to determine which wire is the signal from the trailing coil and trace it back. Once wired to the trailing -, if there is tach/spark, then the ECU should also have a signal. Otherwise, probably the best way to check would be to scope that terminal (at ECU) with an oscilloscope.

Also, if your sprarkplugs are getting wet w/ fuel and/or the injectors are clicking (use mechanic stethoscope), then the ECU is getting the signal from the trailing.

For the SE, the fuel pump runs only if one of the following is true:
1. key turned to 'START'
2. AFM door open

So the pump runs when you are trying to start the car. After the car starts, it is up to the AFM to keep it running. The AFM will always be at least partially open when the car is running.