Crit

iTrader: (6)

Paul, you're absolutely wrong. For everyone else reading, please know that Paul is a very straightforward and honest guy, but I was facing a 17-hr round-trip for a car with a several unknowns and a seller that wasn't familiar with bin rust. You're welcome, Paul, to check my posting history in your thread and the one for the car I bought, and you'll see that I didn't discover the thread for the car I bought for another two days. It wasn't until my plans fell through to travel to Ohio that Donnie (aws140) told me about your car.

Paul's car
My new car

You're also welcome to PM Billy (bwaits) and Tim (cletus) regarding my thoughts. They both are local rotorheads that I spoke to daily before deciding to pass on your car, Paul. The NC car wasn't even on the radar, and I passed on your car because it had obvious front-end damage and significant rust. Your passenger's side bumper mount won't even sit flush with the frame, because the frame isn't square.

I did return your email and included the Carfax report as a courtesy. Let me clearly state that I was absolutely honest with you at all times. The least you could have done is ask me about this before jumping the gun. I wish you the best of luck finding a buyer, but I suggest you not let them look underneath the car.

There's nothing I hate more than being called a liar.

Crit

Crit

iTrader: (6)

By the way, are the aux ports supposed to be greased somehow? Do you use axle grease, lithium, or something else?

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Yes sir you are way off base here. Crit agonized over the choice of purchasing your car or not. We spoke about every day from when he found your listing until he decided not to purchase it. I saw all the pictures you supplied and the information you provided him. Crit was in the market for a good daily driver that will replace his current late model truck. He has a budget to work within as well as a time constraint.

I advised him that I do not believe your car would work within either to get it in the shape he desires of a daily driver. I do not feel your car was a bad deal or to far gone it just did not fit his agenda. Crit then spent more time agonizing about the purchase after my recommendation.

The choice was made not to purchase your car before the current car popped up on his radar. There was actually never a point where he had to choose between them.

I believe you owe Crit an apology.

-billy

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Internally no, externally a shot of P B Blaster is sufficient on the rotating parts.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

And they're actuated by the tiny little piece of tubing that runs under the manifold, right? Is it just as simple as bringing a similarly-sized piece of tubing from the exhaust and a short vacuum line?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Yep, they open by back pressure from the exhaust. Stock, there is a tube with small holes drilled in it inside the cat. Operation starts at 1.8 psi, ports are fully open by 2.7 psi. (ideally). When I install headers and lose the cat tube, I simply tap a 1/8" 90* brass NPT fitting that has the 1/8" compresion fitting for copper tubing on the other end into a header tube. Use about 8" of copper tube, finish off with vac hose. All parts in the plumbing section of your local hardware/home center store.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Okay, so back to hot start, cold start and cruise. I've got a charcoal canister, so those are the three items I'm used to seeing in a 12A car, but are missing from this one.

Cold start:
No coolant reservoir as on the 12A. Manually hit the throttle and it'll stick until the thermowax releases it and cuts vacuum.

Hot start:
No actuator like the 12A - just bumps the throttle with the BAC, which is otherwise used for A/C and low-speed power steering. Basically an additional airpath for high idle.

Cruise:
Same as a 12A car, but maybe with a different cable length or linkage ball? I can see that the throttle cable is different, and don't know if I can use a 12A cruise actuator.

Do I have that right, and can I use a 12A cruise actuator? Also, is there a way to disable the BAC actuation for a power steering car if you've eliminated it? Do all SE's bump the throttle when you're turning, or is the high idle called up by the pump, so it's a non-issue once it's removed?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Can't help with cruise. All 1st and 2nd gen FI engines have a BAC, regardless of PS or AC. Personally, if it works and you're not doing the rats nest removal, leave it alone.

RXspeedfast

Dear Crit, My understanding is that the RX7 Club is to facilitate the exchange of information between members in order to help each other with their RX7s. With that I will not hammer on you anymore. It leads nowhere. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to you and your associate "Rotorheads."


To help you: Go to google. Type in: RX7, collision. One of the websites will be
by Fox, ba. You can download the original Mazda microfiche on 84-85 RX7 engine and body parts. Download if you wish.


To help me: Please take 2 or 3 pics of your passenger-side tow ring, passenger-side front-portion of the frame rail and anything in between, especially where you saw damage in my pics. I have downloaded pics from the "pics section." However these were taken far from the area of concern you found in my pics. Thank you. Signed Rxspeedfast.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

A little formal in the morning.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

It looks like you can straighten the tow ring in a vice without any problem, and the driver's side will be good to go. The passenger's side bumper mount has three pickup points, but only two are visible. The mount itself is like a shock absorber on each side of the car that allows the bumper to move in and out. At the car's end of the shock, the round tube is welded to a square bracket that bolts to the car. The bracket has a horizontal plane on the top side, and a vertical plane on the inboard side. There's a bolt on the top side, and a second bolt on the inboard side of the bracket. Those are the two that don't line up with the car. The third bolt is likely connected, and it comes straight out the back of the tube and into the front edge of your frame rail. It's not visible in any pictures, and would be tough to see unless you're under the nose of the car, but it's the only way that the passenger's side is still attached, so it's likely good. I don't have a digital camera but I'll see if I can borrow one and post pics.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Okay, I've braced myself and I'm prepared to be told I'm retarded.

I placed an order this morning to order gaskets, and called this afternoon to add grommets and o-rings to the order. The guy told me I had 4 injectors, so I'd need 4 of each, and I damn-near bit his head off. I'm absolutely convinced that I've only seen two injectors in my block and nowhere else. Does the car have 4 injectors or 2?

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Gsl-se = 2
S4, S5 = 4

Page one of this post, mazdaverx713b, posted pics of the manual. They show the only fuel rail a SE has.

Now you need. 2) upper grommet, 2) lower grommet and 2) upper oring.

-billy

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Which is why the FC guys use the SE injectors as upgrades.... I'll call 'em back. Thanks Billy. Damn I get sidetracked easily..

So back to cruise control... actuator's the same as 12A?

Crit

iTrader: (6)

I found another thread with good pics of an -SE engine bay

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/pic-stock-gsl-se-engine-bay-anyone-649312/

It looks like the sub-zero reservoir is present in the SE, though I'm not sure where the outlet goes. It also looks like the cruise actuates the throttle linkage from the passenger's side rather than looping around to the driver's side, so it's coiled up and out of the way, as it's got a shorter run.

Any idea if the cold start is the same, where it connects, and if the cruise is the same?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the cruise control actuator is the same on a 12A as the 13B SE. the cold start is mostly "electronic", no cables or acutators. the sub zero starting assist resivour mounts in the same location as a non SE. are you asking where the starting assist "mixture" is injected into teh engine?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Unless you're doing a restoration, skip the sub-zero system, most of them no longer function anyway. That's one of the first things I toss out.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Well no, I like to fill my subzero bottle with MMO or seafoam so I can smoke out fellow motorists rather than my neighbors. I'm curious where it couples to the manifold. I know I have 4 nipples on the front of the throttle body and two at the rear, just didn't know if it connects to one of them or somewhere else.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

It's under the UIM and connects to the LIM (near the injectors).

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Can you tell me if it tees into both rotor housings, or does it go to just one?

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Well, it is just one connection on the LIM. Pretty sure it injects into both housings, though (the connection is centered on the LIM between the 2 rotors).

EDIT: Also, if you go back to page 1 of this thread, take a look of the vac diagram I posted. The injection point for the sub-zero is right next to where the turquoise line that says " to air bleed socket" on the vac diagram connects to.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Thanks man, just didn't catch it.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

how are you coming on the project? made any progress?

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I've got three engines living in the basement - the 4-port carb for the RX-2, a seized SE engine that's good for accessories, and a used SE motor that looks fabulous. I finished the harness last night, and will start mocking up the intake manifolds on the good motor once the gaskets come in today.

The plan is to lay the airbox, AFM and intake pipe into the car, attach the potentiometer on the air box, lay in the harness and connect what I can, and wait for reinforcements to place the engine.

The clutch and flywheel from the seized engine are good, so we'll use a borrowed input shaft to line up the clutch, will attach the pressure plate and tranny, and drop that bad-boy in. Once that happens, I'll have a lot of vacuum and wiring chasing, but the idea is to have it running on Sunday.

I don't have a shifter or the cover for the pivot that bolts to the shift tower, but that's okay because it's not registered yet, anyway. Once it's running, I'll head over to see a buddy close-by and swap my red interior with his grey one, and call it 90% done.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

you're missing a shifter for the trans? are you talking about the round cover that bolts to the top of teh trans in the shifter's hole? three 10mm bolts...