Crit

iTrader: (6)

I finally dragged my first GSL-SE from North Carolina, and she arrived safe and sound. I've got lots of spares, most notably a seized core engine that's good for the rat's nest, fuel rail, and lots of bits and pieces. The rest of the car arrived in the bed of the truck.

Right now, I have a shell with RB suspension and Illuminas, spoiler, nice paint and rims, perfect red leather interior, etc. The AC's been gutted. I have the driveshaft, SE tranny, oil cooler, engine brace, front cover, oil pan, windage tray, clutch fan, Taurus e-fan, evaporator, ECU and harness, and an FC water pump - all sitting in the driveway.

I've got one set of upper and lower manifolds that were blocked off for the sake of running a carb, and another pair that's stock. I've got the air box lid, base, MAF flapper valve, plastic intake tube and throttle body as well.

I lack an exhaust, gaskets, and a good 6-port core, but I've got time to get all that together. The biggest hurdle is that it's all Greek to me. I'm used to little manifolds and carbs - not this big plumbing nightmare.

I'd like to get the car registered, which means passing emissions once, and then simplifying where appropriate. Is there a good reference on here that I could use to learn my around the -SE? I know what the pulsation damper is, but the dashpot, rat's nest, and other hardware are totally new. I just need a general education, so who's feeling smart?

Does an SE without the rat's nest clean up as dramatically as 12A cars? Does it even make sense to remove it? Many questions....

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

We need pics! Plus I can't help you all I know are SAs :-) Is it that r ed one you were asking about earlier?

ratboy

iTrader: (1)

Its not really worth the effort to remove the SE rats nest IMO. I believe you can remove a solonoid or 2 but no real HP gain, you still have a mess of vac hoses and you lose easy cold starting. I just redid all the soft hoses in my engine bay so yes it is a bit overwelming but with the FSM and a few links from here I got it all back together and running 1st time (ok, 3rd time it ran nicely). Anyways heres a great link on the SE 13b and another one to help you figure out all the idling problems you're gonna have when you first get it all back together. Good luck and need pics!

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=706258

http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

get yourself the haynes manual and find the factory service manual online.... the gsl-se isn't very hard at all.

Engine harness and hoses are straight forward. If you are stuck just take a pic and post it up and within minutes someone on here will give you a hand.

Seniorchief

Your best bet is down loading the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for the GSL-SE that's in the 1st Gen RX-7 FAQ's section. Most issues that are common (and fix's for them) can be found in that section. Good luck.

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

P.S. if you want to pass emissions don't go removing items.... Put evey thing to stock, then go from there.

acv and airpump will be very important, you can also add methel hydrate(research the proper amount) to a full tank of gas to reduce emissions.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Nah, I've only got to pass emissions one time, then the car's grandfathered.

There's a hole in the passenger's firewall where a harness has been removed, and I think it's the EFI harness. It makes sense that the ECU would have its own harness running forward to the injectors, TPS, O2, flapper, IAT and stuff, but I didn't know if Mazda did it that way. I'm told that I have the EFI harness included in all the boxes but it'll need to be re-wrapped - just wanted to make sure that I'm on the right page.

Is there a good reference on here that breaks down all the sensors, fittings, nipples, etc and where they all go? Basically, I'm looking at a lot of nipples and connectors, a wiring harness that's been unwrapped, so none of the cable lengths are helpful, and I don't know where to reconnect everything.

I'm downloading the FSM now, but it'll take a while. FWIW, the deal is that the wife would only let me buy an SE if it was a runner. She's out of town for 2 weeks, so the goal is to have it running, emissioned, registered, and de-emissoined (at least just a good exhaust) by the time she gets back, at which point I'll put the AC back in it and take care of other stuff.

Thanks guys,
Crit

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

Crit, this should help you a bit. its a great thread!! https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/engine-gslse-engine-pictures-706258/

the harness for the SE is routed essentially the same as a non SE. the ecu mounts in the same location (but is an N308) and the harness runs through the firewall in the same location and manner. i can post pics of SE engines and such to help you if you would like.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

This should help too:

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Well, the previous owner tapped the front cover for a turbo return, and unwrapped the harness for reference as he made up a megasquirt harness. The T2 never happened, and the megasquirt harness was laying the car when I picked it up. Pics of SE harnesses would be great. ECU and tons of wire are in a box - I assume it used to be the EFI harness, but I don't know.

It sounds like the EFI harness was not a standalone bit, but was integrated with everything else, so I've got more work than I though. Would you recommend waiting until the engine is in to get all the lengths correct, or use the cut harness on my seized SE core motor that was donated by a friend, and getting the wiring done ahead of time?

Once I find a 6-port core, flywheel and clutch, the reinstall won't be so bad except that I'm just unfamiliar with it and don't have a good harness right now.

EDIT: Holy cow, mazdavert, that thread is incredibly helpful. I really need to work right now, but now my head's totally in the SE layout. Oh well.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i guess it depends on how much the harness has been hacked would depend on the route that i would personally go. i like things simple. with that said i would buy a used harness off of someone here on the board. while you are waiting for the harness to be delivered you can find a used front cover or complete block and if you havent already done so or dont have one, pick up an SE oil cooler and lines. i have an SE harness. it has a couple of cut plugs but i could take a picture of it if you would like. it would take me a few hours or until later this evening, as the harness is at my work shop 30 mins away, but i'd take the pics for you.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

I don't think that the harness has been hacked, at least he said it wasn't. He unwrapped the EFI part of the harness so I have lots of loose wires, but nothing's been cut. Ugh - what a mess. Anyone have a harness they need to get rid of?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

saw your post in the wtb section. try these:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=gsl-se

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=gsl-se

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=gsl-se

Crit

iTrader: (6)

But if the EFI hardware isn't standalone, I would need to take the whole harness out of the car, right? If I were to just swap harnesses, how much needs to come out, and where does it go? I have the ECU, so that's no problem, but my head's starting to hurt. I would have thought that the SE would pick up the tach signal and a few other things from the driver's side, then just shoot forward through the firewall for all the stuff that a 12A doesn't have or need - just a dedicated harness for all its stuff. I wish it were that easy.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the egi part of the harness is located on the right side of the engine bay and only runs to the ecu. your oil pressure sender, coil, coolant temp sender, etc are all on teh left side and are in a seperate harness. hope that helps.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Okay, then I got some bad info earlier when I was told that it's integrated with the rest of the car. What you describe sounds like the smart way to do it, from Mazda's perspective. I imagine that the previous owner wouldn't have messed with coolant, oil level, oil pressure, and all that stuff - just took apart the EFI harness. Now I just have to find one

Thanks, man.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Yep, you are correct.
The EFI computer only runs the engine. It is not intergrated with the rest the car harness. Even the gauges run from the drivers side harness.

All you need is a stock SE Engine harness.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Well, this is what I've got.

Intake



Harness and ECU


Stuff





And the car

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

so clean and very workable. you have the right parts. i cant tell if the left harness is in place on the body though. you can use you existing harness. assemble the bad engine as it would appear on the car. install the harness on the engine and then at first it'l llook a little like spaghetti. get some super 33 electrical tape and tape the harness as it normally would be with each connector going to the correct spot. then after you are finished, pull it back apart and remove your now taped harness that has the connectors in their correct mounted positions. once you have a good engine in the car, install your harness and loom it with the appropriate size loom. if you have problems finding teh correct connector for the correct sender, solenoid, connector, let us know and we'll get you squared away. i just did this same thing on my 88 TII and the super 33 and loom looks excellent. pm me if you have any questions and want my cell number for further explanation.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

You know, I didn't even think about using the dud engine to mock up everything else. I can throw it on the tranny, drop it in, and figure out all the wires, vacuum lines, cables and accessories, fuel lines, 6-port setup, all the stuff that's new. Great idea.

I've got some fiber-backed tape on my Dakota wiring harness - kinda like a cloth weave in the material - that makes for a really clean install that can't be nicked. Any idea what that stuff is?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

probably installed from the factory on the dodge. you really dont have to install the engine in the car to mock everything up. you can if you want to i guess. i would remove the oil pan, set the block on the ground/garage floor on a piece or carpet or other suitable resting pad and do it that way. just saves you some work. the left side of the engine wiring is pretty simple. i see you have an FC fuse block. if you have questions about that or its wiring feel free to ask. i installed one on my 85 S and can take soem pics of the wiring for you if need be. i'll post a pic of the super 33.

WE3RX7

iTrader: (8)

Very nice - wish my '85 had those wheels!

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

here are some pics i hope can help you:

pics of the super 33:




pics of some helpful pages in the 84 FSM:

85rx-7gsl-se

iTrader: (2)

Clean car man, glad another SE will be put back on the road. I have alot of SE parts including harness, ecu, and various stuff pulled during my TII swap, if you need anything, hit me up.

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

Crit......Dude.......I can't believe you went ahead and got it. I told you the car had potential. Just curious what the final bill was on picking that girl up. I think you would probably be better off getting another harness from one these guys. I'm looking forward to seeing that one back on the road!