Anyone Out there running without out an Oil Metering Pump? I am. I premix 1 ounce to 1 Gal of fuel. What kind of oil are you guys using? I've been considering going with a synthetic since I'm premixing.
Any ideas?

Thanks,
Mike

 

Don't use Synthetic. It doesn't burn and will leave deposits in the engine! If you want, use 2 stroke motorcycle or marine oil.

 

He means the motor oil, not the 2 stroke. Why would you worry about the engine oil burning when you're premixing?

I put my car together with the omp bypassed. Too bad its back apart now (Stupid 73 12A bolt pattern )

 

Put it back inthe RX-2 dude. It'd make a kick *** project.

 

They do make synthetic 2 stroke oil that does burn.

 

Felix is right. I meant the oil in the block. I run castrol 2 stroke. Mainly because thats what they have at the parts store up the street.
I was just wondering if anyone is using synthetic in the block and what they think about it. The more I think about it, the more I will probably just stick with dino oil. Whats the point in spending the extra cash if you don't need to?
Anybody?

Thanks,
Mike

 

I had a dream that I was testing the flow output of my OMP and it no longer pumped any oil into my carb. Needless to say it was a bad dream!

 

So did you start premixing?

 

This is freaky man! This morning when I was doing my usual under-bonnet inspection while warming the engine up I noticed the metering lines were almost completely dry! Needless to say I started freaking out. "Oh my god! This can't be happening! This CAN'T be happening!" Well, after taking taking some pills to calm myself down I put some oil in the fuel tank and drove around for awhile and it's still pumping only minute amounts of oil. The pump doesn't seem to be leaking and my oil pressure is normal. Is there anything else that could cause this other than a faulty metering pump?

 

Don't freak out... it's okay, really.... my car driven for many thousands of miles with no OMP, first by the PO and then by me for 2k or so, and then I started premixing (8oz to 10gal fuel).

I still don't know if synthetic in the sump is such a good idea... after all the oil does get into the combustion chamber by various means, besides the OMP. Then again some rotary gurus say they use Mobil 1 with no problems, and one guy did a crude burn test (he burned various samples of synthetics) and found that Mobil 1 left little or no residue, while some others left gobs and gobs. Do a search in the Single Turbo section, that's where I think it was.

 

Ok, maybe I didn't really freak out THAT bad. It would probably take quite a bit of driving with no OMP to start prematurely wearing down the rotorhousings. Anyway, I think I might just start pre-mixing. BTW, what's the correct ratio. I've heard people suggestion anywhere from 1:50 to 1:200.

 

you can run synthetic in the crankcase just fine with the OMP disabled. just premix 1 once to one gallon of gas. this is how i run 90 TII haltech car. get all sorts of cool looks from people wondering what the hell you are doing while filling up

 

It'll wear the apex seals sooner than the hard chrome I think.

Anyway, in the dream my oil lines were bone dry and I was trying to get a reading on if the internals of the OMP were still ok, but maybe just slightly misadjusted, so I was raising the lever arm to try to increase the flow, while holding both lines away from the carb. The thought crossed my mind to start dripping some oil down the carb barrels because the engine WAS running, but then I realised that it would have been better to have premixed my oil. It would have left my hands free to mess around with the OMP. All this time I spent thinking about it, the longer my engine ran with shoddy (sp) oil mixtures. It was a bad dream.

 

How? I've rebuilt several engines and the only way I see for oil to get to the seals is through the intake. I'm even looking at a rotor sitting on my desk right now and see no oil passagesfor the oil to get to the seals. Is there somethning i'm missing?

I run 1oz to 1 gal because thats what most of the guys at the race track run including us. Thats what our engine builder recomends as well. He builds all of the front runers engines including ours.

Mike

 

Some oil will get past the oil control rings. If they were 100% effective, the side seals would starve for oil. From between the oil seals and the side seals, oil can get directly to the intake port when the rotor passes over it. (Especially under high manifold vacuum, like at idle or when letting off at high RPM, which is when a car with worn-out oil control rings will first start smoking) Or, it can just get past the side seals, or the clearances between the side seals and the corner seals. Housings with any wear on them at all will not be perfectly flat, and the side seal is, for all intents and purposes, unbending and will leave gaps as it passes over the worn spots. And seal grooves are the last place you want oil residue to form!

It's not as much as the OMP injects on our cars, but it's not insignificant.

 

Yeah, actually I was thinking about this last night while I was laying in bed waiting for sleep. I pretty much thought the samw thing you wrote.
I still wouldn't want to have to rely on that to lube my seals though. But It's better than nothing.

Mike