When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Before you do anything get the FSM (Factory Service Manual or equivalent. There are some online at Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals. Based on your questions you have never worked on a car so I would also suggest getting a buddy that has to help you diagnose whats wrong. To answer your questions:
1. No, you pour some tranny fluid in there to help it slide around better.
2. Yes, otherwise your shifter will feel wonky and will be a pain to use.
3. Frozen master maybe or some other issue causing the pedal to be stuck.
4. Not enough info to diagnose.
5. Not enough info to diagnose.
RA is a good source but some parts may come in that don't fit if you have a mid year model or some other issues. You should hold off buying stuff until you know its broke.
Hello, just recently purchased a 1983 RX-7 GSL.
I am new to the car scene and I have a couple of issues. I was wondering if you guys could help me!
1) Do i need to grease the shifter when putting it back in like on the ball on the bottom?
2) How necessary is the spring clip that is inside the tranmission for the shifter?
3) My clutch pedal is hard and i cannot push it down at all.. Why is that? Fluid is fine.
4) My brakes don't work, what could this be?
5) My e-brake does not work either, how to adjust?
(I was told to get brake master cylinder, clutch slave, clutch master cylinder all from RockAuto, is that okay?)
My guess the car has been sitting for some time. You probably have multiple areas that have rusted in place. Front calipers, master cylinder and hand brake are all candidates. A rust penetrating oil can be your best friend in the near future. Don't hesitate to use it generously.
Before you do anything get the FSM (Factory Service Manual or equivalent. There are some online at Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals. Based on your questions you have never worked on a car so I would also suggest getting a buddy that has to help you diagnose whats wrong. To answer your questions:
1. No, you pour some tranny fluid in there to help it slide around better.
2. Yes, otherwise your shifter will feel wonky and will be a pain to use.
3. Frozen master maybe or some other issue causing the pedal to be stuck.
4. Not enough info to diagnose.
5. Not enough info to diagnose.
RA is a good source but some parts may come in that don't fit if you have a mid year model or some other issues. You should hold off buying stuff until you know its broke.
1) Someone told me to rub some engine oil on the bottom of the shifter. Is that ok?
2) How do i put on the spring clip on?
3) Okay.. Btw, Should i just swap it? Could it be my clutch slave?
4) and 5) How do i adjust the brakes and stuff? especially E-brake.
Originally Posted by DummyFixer
My guess the car has been sitting for some time. You probably have multiple areas that have rusted in place. Front calipers, master cylinder and hand brake are all candidates. A rust penetrating oil can be your best friend in the near future. Don't hesitate to use it generously.
Yeah, tthere's some rust there. How do i putt rust penetratting oil on tthe master cylinder and front calipers? can you elaboratte?
1. Rubbing engine oil is not enough oil and not the right oil, use the same fresh gear oil that is in the tranny and pour some into the hole, like an ounce or two but not overflowing.
2. The posts above show the proper position of the spring clip. And you really need to heed the counsel regarding the notches on the nylon rings and how they align.
Reinstalling the shifter was not as awful as I thought it would be, just had to be persistent. The mid boot was glued in, so no dice moving it without possibly ripping it up, and I was completely against the idea of trimming it, even slightly. So to prepare, I poured in "enough" gear oil into the shifter linkage (it pooled up a bit), greased the ball end of the shifter and a bit of grease where it goes in the tranny. With the mid boot still covering the 3x 10mm bolts would go, it looks like this (photo before cleanup etc.)
grease up the top bushing enough to stick it in place on the top of the ball, aligning the keyway in the ball with the bushing's detent (as described earlier in the thread).
pop the ball end into the linkage with the bushing riding along, aligned as above, inserting the ball's keyway onto the guide pin and shoot for he right hand side of the spring.
of course, now you can't see the alignment, so you have to go by feel.
gently move the shifter into 1st gear position and slide the back edge of the cover into the boot, it is difficult as the hole is small.
work the lip of the boot up and over the sides.
move the shifter to 4th, work the rest of the boot up and over the cover.
now, gently but firmly hold the cover down and move the shifter to feel for proper, smooth operation. If the cover won't sit flush or there is binding don't force it. You'll have to start over.
rotate the cover to align the holes, bolt it on with enough pressure to hold it, not getting medieval on it, just secure. Check for smooth operation.
I got lucky and it went in aligned and worked smoothly.
Last edited by Toruki; 08-25-20 at 07:57 AM.
Reason: More on the boot reinstall
1. Rubbing engine oil is not enough oil and not the right oil, use the same fresh gear oil that is in the tranny and pour some into the hole, like an ounce or two but not overflowing.
2. The posts above show the proper position of the spring clip. And you really need to heed the counsel regarding the notches on the nylon rings and how they align.
Dude, no. Gear oil. Not bearing grease. Not motor oil. Gear oil. If you have a Haynes or Chilton manual, or the recommended FSM (free on line) they will tell you exactly what grade of gear oil to use in the tranny. It might be in the owners manual too (too tired to go check for you).
EDIT - Alright now I feel bad. The owners manual says 2.1 Qt of GL4 or GL5. Haynes says 1.8 Qt of GL4 or GL5 90 wt above 0F, and 80wt below 0F.
As you say, your new to the car scene. I would strongly suggest you have a real, professional mechanic look the car over. Not your buddy from the Walmart lube, but an actual mechanic.
These cars are special and there are lots of good guys here who know more about your car than any mechanic at your local Mazda dealer. BUT, "my brakes don't work, why" after telling us you don't know much about cars, could kill you.
Get the car looked at and tell us what the mechanic finds. Then we can tell you how to fix it, and where to get the cheapest quality parts. Napa / Autozone / Knects don't have anything for your car. Even if they tell you they do... no, its not the right part. Guys here can tell you where to get all the correct brake and clutch parts for your car, either OE Mazda or the best after-market if Mazda doesn't make it anymore.
And there are regulars here who were Mazda mechanics in the 80's and 90's when these cars were new or newish. Actual certified Mazda pros trained on your car. There's lots of knowledge here, so welcome to the club.
But if you don't know Jack about auto mechanics, get some in-person help with those brakes, at least. I don't want you crashing a beautiful 1st gen. People are replaceable but RX's are not.
Dude, no. Gear oil. Not bearing grease. Not motor oil. Gear oil. If you have a Haynes or Chilton manual, or the recommended FSM (free on line) they will tell you exactly what grade of gear oil to use in the tranny. It might be in the owners manual too (too tired to go check for you).
EDIT - Alright now I feel bad. The owners manual says 2.1 Qt of GL4 or GL5. Haynes says 1.8 Qt of GL4 or GL5 90 wt above 0F, and 80wt below 0F.
I split the difference and use 80W-90.
Thank you for finding out what transmission oil i need, but do i fill all the way to the top until it covers the bottom (ball) of the shifter? like a little bit?
Originally Posted by DummyFixer
I would dis-assemble them and let them soak. You really need to see the interior condition anyway.
Dis-assemble what exactly? The transmission?
Originally Posted by Maxwedge
As you say, your new to the car scene. I would strongly suggest you have a real, professional mechanic look the car over. Not your buddy from the Walmart lube, but an actual mechanic.
These cars are special and there are lots of good guys here who know more about your car than any mechanic at your local Mazda dealer. BUT, "my brakes don't work, why" after telling us you don't know much about cars, could kill you.
Get the car looked at and tell us what the mechanic finds. Then we can tell you how to fix it, and where to get the cheapest quality parts. Napa / Autozone / Knects don't have anything for your car. Even if they tell you they do... no, its not the right part. Guys here can tell you where to get all the correct brake and clutch parts for your car, either OE Mazda or the best after-market if Mazda doesn't make it anymore.
And there are regulars here who were Mazda mechanics in the 80's and 90's when these cars were new or newish. Actual certified Mazda pros trained on your car. There's lots of knowledge here, so welcome to the club.
But if you don't know Jack about auto mechanics, get some in-person help with those brakes, at least. I don't want you crashing a beautiful 1st gen. People are replaceable but RX's are not.
Thank you, i definitely will find someone! currently the car sits at home!
can't remember if driver or pass side but the trans case has a plug towards the top. fill thru this hole til the level is at or just below it. the shifter tower is a separate cavity so pouring oil into it will not get into the case.
08-24-20, 01:18 PM
