First Gen Rx-7 Shifter Problem
12-16-10, 08:37 PM
#1
I don't think Im all that
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First Gen Rx-7 Shifter Problem
I finally got my first gen Rx, and I was driving it around later in the day, after i had driven it on the freeway, roadways, driveways, etc., and all the sudden the shifter did not want to shift into any gears, as if the gear ways were closed. I had to get out of my car in the middle of the road, and push the car, out of the way, when all the sudden the shifter worked again. This is very strange to me, and I would like to know why this happened, if anybody has any suggestions.
I personally believe that the clutch hydrolic pressure is not working, and needs some adjustment, because when I pumped the clutch it worked.
When the shifter does work it is super choppy, and hard to shift from one gear to another, but I heard that this was normal for these cars. Can anybody verify that?
Finally, if anybody has any clue why this happened, let me know how much it would cost to fix it, or how to fix it.
I personally believe that the clutch hydrolic pressure is not working, and needs some adjustment, because when I pumped the clutch it worked.
When the shifter does work it is super choppy, and hard to shift from one gear to another, but I heard that this was normal for these cars. Can anybody verify that?
Finally, if anybody has any clue why this happened, let me know how much it would cost to fix it, or how to fix it.
12-17-10, 12:50 AM
#4
Jolly Green Giant
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While shifter slop is somewhat common amongst high mileage and abused cars I accept it as normal, usually means it's been abused or mistreated.
here's a quick guide to checking clutch hydraulics for failure:
here's a quick guide to checking clutch hydraulics for failure:
If the clutch pedal is sticking to the floor then it's very very likely to be the hydraulics and as well will cause shifting problems particularly trying to shift into first or reverse from a dead stop.
1. Check your fluid level and condition
2. Look inside the footwell where the pedal pushrod goes into the back of the master cylinder and see if there is fluid leaking. [bad master cyl]
3. Look at the slave cylinder and pull the dust boot back and see if it is damp and if there is buildup and dampness around the slave itself [bad slave cyl]
4. Check the condition of the flex hose itself, the outer casing will likely be cracked but check for any tearing, dampness, leakage especially around the ends where it's bolted to the hardline or slave cyl.
5. If you can find someone to help you, open the hood, take the cap off the master cyl reservoir and have an assistant pump the clutch a few times then hold it down to the floor. Look carefully at the slave cylinder to see if it holds still in the extended position, if it begins to slowly return while the pedal is still depressed and there appears to be no leak at the slave cyl and the boot is dry and clean. Repeat the pedal pump and hold and this time look at the master cyl reservoir, watch the fluid level and see if while the pedal is held down to see if the fluid returns back on its own, if it does this is a sign of an internal leak in the master.
6. If no leaks or signs of failure are apparent, flush out the fluid and lines with new fluid and see if that helps.
As always it is the BEST practice to replace everything together so you do not fix one thing then have another fail a week or two later because usually when one fails, the other is bound to be on it's way.
RockAuto.com generally has the best prices available for all the parts you will need, try not to get the cheapest master as even though it will last you a long time, you still want a quality product.
When I did my hydraulics I went ahead and replaced both master and slave, and picked up a stainless braided clutch line from Mazdatrix for about $25-30 shipped and IMO well worth it.
1. Check your fluid level and condition
2. Look inside the footwell where the pedal pushrod goes into the back of the master cylinder and see if there is fluid leaking. [bad master cyl]
3. Look at the slave cylinder and pull the dust boot back and see if it is damp and if there is buildup and dampness around the slave itself [bad slave cyl]
4. Check the condition of the flex hose itself, the outer casing will likely be cracked but check for any tearing, dampness, leakage especially around the ends where it's bolted to the hardline or slave cyl.
5. If you can find someone to help you, open the hood, take the cap off the master cyl reservoir and have an assistant pump the clutch a few times then hold it down to the floor. Look carefully at the slave cylinder to see if it holds still in the extended position, if it begins to slowly return while the pedal is still depressed and there appears to be no leak at the slave cyl and the boot is dry and clean. Repeat the pedal pump and hold and this time look at the master cyl reservoir, watch the fluid level and see if while the pedal is held down to see if the fluid returns back on its own, if it does this is a sign of an internal leak in the master.
6. If no leaks or signs of failure are apparent, flush out the fluid and lines with new fluid and see if that helps.
As always it is the BEST practice to replace everything together so you do not fix one thing then have another fail a week or two later because usually when one fails, the other is bound to be on it's way.
RockAuto.com generally has the best prices available for all the parts you will need, try not to get the cheapest master as even though it will last you a long time, you still want a quality product.
When I did my hydraulics I went ahead and replaced both master and slave, and picked up a stainless braided clutch line from Mazdatrix for about $25-30 shipped and IMO well worth it.
