irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

**** UPDATE ****

So i got the engine in on Monday...and I havent had a chance to start my wiring yet or modify my front engine bracket to motor mounts.

I used the 1 ton foldable engine hoist from Harbor Freight Tools and it wasn't deep enough to mount the engine easily, so I had to improvise and use some muscle's to get the sucker in there...I did it by myself, but would recommend a friend to help in this part because you cant be in 2 places at once.





Heres where the ghetto'ness begins...I used 2 screw drivers and a chisel to hold the bar in place because I went past the last hole for the pin to secure it. This was dangerous and I did this after I got the engine in the car and supported by jacks and the front crossmember. After I was done the bottom of the hoist's Outer bar sheared about 1" in...so this was done at my own risk and the Hoist was not intended to be used like this, but it was my only option other than removing the front bumper and supports

Nphocus

I've done worse.

In my house, we call that negro engineering. Currently, I'm using a pack of 1 ohm 20 watt resistors to drop the voltage going to my fuel pump down. 5.00 fix.

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

I installed my 13B + tranny with the hoist on the 1/4 ton slot. Had a longer chain and a jack under the engine. My friend pushed it back from the engine bay while I was under the car pulling it back and getting everything bolted in.

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

Yea I doubt it weighs more than 500 lbs (1/4 ton) especially with all the fluids out. You can lift the trans on your own with it drained and I'm sure Two youthful people could lift the engine.

I believe I used the furthest bolt hole out as well, but I think it's 1/2 a ton on my picker. Plus I have the front bumper off at the moment.

RotoricanNY

iTrader: (2)

me and my buddy picked up a 13B short block, wasn't no where near as heavy as I thought it was gonna be, still sucks being that I'm 22 and have the back of a 60 yr old man

FbDrift

X2 of all things i inherited from my folks, the bad back thing sucks the worst.

i can lift a 13b by myself... and have done it do the engine stand. but its so awkward carrying it.

anyway back on topic:

great project you got there! i am doing the same swap into my 83 GS. i am using a 13b front cover (because i do not see why we need a 12a or SE front). im just waiting for my templates to get here from pinneapple racing so i can start getting some progress made.

i really am confused with the wiring tho, as far as the left side harness. i dont know what wires to splice and what ones to get rid of.

o also, did you use a 13b flywheel with an s4 clutch kit?

NCross

iTrader: (18)

You might have trouble passing emissions with premix. FYI. I would just source out a 13b-SE cover and run the OMP to play it safe.

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

You need the front cover because the bracket for the engine mount bolts to the engine there. You'll also need the SE pan seeing as the motor mount bolts go through the oil pan on 2nd gens. That is why you need an SE front cover. No way around that.

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

UPDATE!!!

Finally got some time to work on the car today, got lots done, but I had to stop due to a broken part :cry:

Started off by getting my front engine mount re-drilled and mounted




Also got the AC and PS mounted and belts on, as well as the port actuators



Got the oil cooler lines mounted...





I changed the o-rings and grommets on the primary injectors, BUT, I saw that the air bleeder had residue of the old grommet on so I scraped it and it cracked, DAMN IT! So now I have to find another one on here, or buy one for $50 new.

Heres a pic:





I also got my oil cooler, (thanks RX3SP!!), but need to find a way to mount it, I read that 84-85 are supposed to already have the mount for the oil cooler, anybody help me with a pic where or how?



Also, if anyone has or know someone who has 1 or 2 primary air bleeders in good condition for an S4 let me know, I put up a WTB in the classifieds. I am also dealing with an issue with a fellow member regarding sending my my front and engine harness that I paid for...hopefully I can get those soon so I can start making my sub harness for my CAS, Coils and other stuff.

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

You haven't been checking my thread!

It would have been better if you found a GSL-SE oil cooler as it would bolt right up, but with a little custom fab that one will work just fine.

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

The problem I've run into is mounting the stock airbox. It will NOT fit, no way no how. Not unless I Reposition the radiator, then it may fit. Which I might do anyways. I could buy an HKS intake with the C.A.R.B. sticker but I don't want to draw any attention to the swap when I go to smog it.

Also, I'm curious as to why you had to modify the motor mount bracket? Is it because you had a 12A originally? I didn't change mine at all.

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

I have definitely been checking your thread!! I have it bookmarked!

I got the oil cooler with lines for a good price, so I guess I will have to figure out a different way to mount it...dang. I saw this thread , https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/cooling-oil-how-install-fc-oil-cooler-1st-gen-write-up-pics-478521/ ,which shows a custom mount for a S1, I'll have to do something similar I guess.

Luckily I found a pair of used air separators from rotary resurection on EBAY...so now I have to wait on them. I wish I had my entire wiring harness so I could start on it.

For intake, I bought one of the MAF/AFM adapters and I plan on putting a 3" cone filter on there.

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

Anyone know if I can use my 12a fan on the 13b waterpump somehow? If not I might just upgrade and go with an electric fan

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

Yea I could use a cone filter but it won't be smog legal unless it has the CARB sticker, which the HKS kit has.

I can't wait for you to get your harness to, you're going to have SO MUCH FUN! lol

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

Well, I believe the screw/stud spacing is different so the answer is no. I am going to electric fan to save some space.

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the comments,

For the wiring just follow Live2drive's swap, Great in depth details and pics for wiring:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/1984-gsl-se-s4-13b-project-832622/

also 3rdandfinal's thread here has lots of helpful info:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/s4-engine-swap-relay-questions-732204/

For the front cover like live2drive said, you need to use one that has the mount for the engine up front, since S4/S5 13B's mount on the side. 84/85 GSL-se front covers are best though because they retain the front mount and have omp with 4 lines rather than 2 when the 12a cover is used.

Clutch, I used the 13B flywheel and 12a clutch, but really the clutches are all the same unless you go with TII or S5 setup.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Be sure to read through my archived How To thread on installing a 2nd gen fmoc in a 1st gen. I wrote it to be as simple and thorough as possible. A couple things you need to do are install the 13B SE front cover for it's 4 ports to feed the S4 oil injectors. The fuel lines should be upsized. If you can find the lines from an SE, great, if not bend up new ones from 5/16-3/8" fuel line. I use aluminum.

If allowed by CARB, you might concider going with MegaSquirt for your ecu. It will give you more tuneability to be able to pass emmissions. Keep in mind that you will need to meet the emmission specs for the year of the engine installed, not the carbed 12A that came oem.

Your cracked injector disperser may still work, very doubtful that it can fall into the engine. Many I've tried to remove have broken much worse than that. I finally got in the habit of cleaning them in place. With age/heat they're just too brittle to remove anymore.

Since you're using a 1st gen front cover, use the 1st gen waterpump housing, that will solve the fan issue. You will need to use the 2nd gen timing pulley, the marks are different than the 1st gens.

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

I read through your Oil cooler install Trochoid a few weeks back, very nicely done. I was lucky to start this swap with a GSL-SE so I used the original oil cooler and brackets for that.

Irish will have to do something like what is shown in your thread though. Unfortunately, I recall you had to have some custom oil lines made. Kind of a bummer.

I think I've spent less than 200 dollars on my swap so far.

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

damn live2drive $200 :wow:

I'm way over that, mainly due to missing parts from my 13B and tuneup parts

trochoid the link I referenced above is yours... thanks its a great writeup

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

Yea well, I guess you can make that $400 technically. My first car ever in high school was an 87 Rx7. I got in an accident and it was totalled and I bought it back for $200. That is the car I pulled the engine out of, So add that to the $200 or so I've spent in screws, metal, fluids, and paint supplies. Probly right around $400 lol

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

UPDATE

Got another half day to work on the car... The engine bay is starting to look complete. Here are some pics:









Got my air diffusers in the mail and put in with all 4 injectors getting new grommets and o-rings.
Intake and TB installed as well as the radiator.

I also got started on the OIL COOLER, first off I want to say thanks to trochoid for his write-up which is linked above. I am basing my mount off his thread.

As stated above I am using a stock S4 oil cooler and lines. The rear oil line needed some GENTLE bending to have the fitting meet up with the rear housing. It took some time and finessing to get it around the suspension correctly so it would mount up.

Next I attached the front oil line which worked fine without any modification.

I mocked the oil cooler and found that the banjo bolt was making contact with the powersteering cooler mount...pic:



So I needed to remove some of the unnecessary metal on the mount:



With the PS cooler mount off I attached the oil cooler line to the top bung...fit is tight but good



I reattached the modified mount and everthing lines up fine, including the radiator.
More pics to follow regarding line routing and mounting of the oil cooler itself.

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

Looking Good Tommie!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

well nobody really cares, but if you really wanted a stock airbox the gsl-se one will fir the car. the afm adaptor bit i think bolts up, but needs some work to actually work

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if you actually go there and have them do it, they look at the ecu and it needs to be the right one.

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

How does "nobody" care?

If you were to be stopped by the police and they inspected your car, you would get a ticket for illegal intake system. Unless it is a CARB approved product.

Maybe some smog guys don't care, but if they are doing their job as they are supposed to, it wouldn't fly.

I have both of the stock airboxes, that AFM is a different size, so without modification no it won't fit. The FC intake pipe is longer also.