irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

Heres the pics I promised... I got lots done lately but still have more to do...

http://img17.imageshack.us/my.php?image=051bx.jpg

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

Wow It's looking really good Tommie!

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

Dash off so I can get to wiring and run my Front harness I made:



My Engine/Emissions harness now inside the passenger compartment:



Other connections made and stuff put on including All vacuum lines and fuel lines




Heres a few of me making my wiring harness(Front or Engine side) from scratch... I basically got a cut harness and had to make my own...biggest issue was the shielding wiring needed for cas. I used 2 wire shielded audio wire from radio shack and doubled it. I have continuity but not sure if it will cause issues due to the smaller diameter wire...If anyone has any experience with this let me know....








The wiring to the left is for my Engine malfunction LED I'm going to make and keep in or around the glovebox.

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

thanks for the kind words jake, Im starting to REALLY use your thread now that my wiring has started. I;m trying to research the FSM and answer my questions as they are coming up, but I have a few that I'll PM you soon with as I continue with making my connections.

I can really see the light at the end of the tunnel now, just need to finish the wiring and install the fuel pump and I can crank her!

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

CAS and FE-02





Main Relay



Coil Connections

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

Great work on the wiring so far, Now you're having fun! :-)

Really glad my thread could help.

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

Wiring routed from passenger compartment through rubber grommet on drivers side...



Dash being put back together...



Got a E-fan from 95 Taurus w/ 3.8, 2 speed, just going to use low for now...




Trimming I did on fan shroud is out lined in yellow....fit is TIGHT but will work well



Wiring kit I bought at autozone...has relay, in line fuse, thermoswitch that goes through the fins of the radiator, and quality wiring.... Relay has line for low and high speed but the high speed needs a HIGH amp relay because it burns them up due to spikes. Also will get a thermswitch that I can drill/tap into the water line so I can get a better On and Off temp...still though for $24.95 its a good deal...

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

Next project is mount the fan and wire it. Swap the gsl-se fuel pump onto my gsl houing plate and mount that.

Then its make wiring connections and crank it...

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

Awesome work, I have been so busy with work lately I haven't had any time or energy to work on mine

I did get the dash back in, but other than that, NO PROGRESS! I'm such a slacker.

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

I know the feeling, thats why I had a gap of no work for 2 weeks...I was burnt out from work and stuff and just rested. Now I'm refreshed and getting lots done...

You need the same...then more pics and get those brakes fixed!

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

I wish it were that easy! Just finished a near 50 hour work week. lol

I think the brakes are ok now, I bled them like 100 times. Still has too much pedal travel for my liking but they do technically work! haha

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

Got the E-fan mounted:







Got Fuel pump mounted, I used the GSL-se mounting plate but had to cut the right side of it off because it hit some hoses...I dont have pics of that part but I will see if can come up with some.

heres the finished product. I just zip tied the fuel filter to the rear axle...


Wiring laid out... going to start temp wiring things up before I make permanent connections

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

Now some wiring questions:



The harness connectors in the red circles...I cant get them out of the car because they are tied into a bundle of wires that runs behind my ac/heater stuff. Do I just zip tie them out of the way or do I need to do anything with the FB wires that ran from the 12a ecu...there is another harness connector out of the pic... so 3 from ecu, then 2 up higher on harness(one is circled red)



These two are from the 13B Emissions harness, the 3rd is the FEM-02, what are the other 2 for and do I just leave them alone?

Speaking of the FEM-02, I obviously have one part of the connector since its on the emissions harness but I dont have the other part of the connector, unless Its already on the FB? What can I do if I dont have it?




This grey covered black wire is located next to the injector wires, but doesn't have a connector on it...I believe its for the inhibitor switch for AT cars, but just need to make sure..



Same with the green wire, goes to nothing right? located in same area around the water neck/injectors...

MORE TO FOLLOW, just need to take pics...

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

As for the FB connectors, I just coiled mine up and left em under the dash. Didn't use them, My guess is they are similar to the FEM-01 and 02 for the FB chassis. Also some of the wires in the connector pictured circled at the far left of the picture may have some of the gauge wires in it. I'm not sure seeing as I just ran separate wires for the gauges that I didn't connect in the engine bay. I think the Water temp gauge is the only one I ran a wire from FEM-02 directly to the gauge wire at the instrument cluster connector.

If you don't have the other side of your FEM-02 connector, find a connector with enough pins and make a new one using only the wires you need. Make sure the wires you DON'T use don't touch or you could have weird issues.

The grey wire near the injectors I have no idea.

The Green wire near the thermostat housing I believe is something for the turbo cars, it goes to nothing. The one on my engine however is green/black, yours appears to be green/white. Apparently it is for turbo and A/t cars for the water temp switch for the fan control circuit. Shown on page 50-38 as EM-01 G/B.

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

I did alot in the last 3 days I've been off...I got the engine rough wired minus the sensors and such not needed to make it run. Wiring is TIME CONSUMING!!!

I turned the key and the starter kicked in, but didn't start. Checked for fuel, but Nada...

My tank was super low, so I added 3 gallons and took the main fuel line off but still nothing...
I then hard wired the fuel pump straight to the battery(bypassed the COR), I can hear the pump...but no fuel from the feed line.

As I write this I MAY have the lines at the pump backwards...I'll check that, but what else could it be...lines worked prior and should not be clogged. Fuel filter came with pump...I guess that could be it, but I'm not getting anything so I doubt it?

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

Yea check your lines to make sure they aren't backwards or that the pump is backwards.

If not check the fuel filter, always a good start.

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

another thing I just thought of...

The intank pump may not be pumping fuel to the high pressure pump...

The way I wired it:

I took the blue wire out of the fuel pump cut relay under the Dash and ran that to the COR and left the plug out of the relay since I now have the COR...is this correct?

Should I splice into the blue wire and then put in back into the plug and use my original fuel pump cut relay again???

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

Air Bypass Relay:

Is this, or can it be used as, my Air Bypass Relay

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

Tommie,

Mine doesn't have those numbers on the top but it does look just like that. I would say it will probably work just fine. If you want to check, plug it in and apply power to the black/white wire and a ground to red/yellow. If it clicks you're in business.

Actually you don't have to plug it in just figure out which pins those wires go to and hook it up that way.

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

In the voice of Borat:



I cross checked the FSM (Fuel/Emmisions 12a- 4A-3 and Fuel/Emmissions 13b- 4B-3) and the GSL-se pump hose routing is opposite AND it doesn't have the fuel cut valve that my 12a utilized. So I bypassed it, changed the hoses and I have fuel at the pump now. Just need to wire my COR back in and see if I am getting fuel during starting and when the MAF is activated....

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

Good Job, the MAF flapper test I told you about in the PM will check your COR just fine.

irishpilot

iTrader: (4)

hey jacob

i am getting fuel, and the COR clicks when the key is "on" and i push MAF flapper, but no start.

The main relay also clicks when key is turned to "on", but no spark.... took spark wire off and grounded at shock tower but no spark???

What can i check... i really want to make sure i am getting ground at ecu...how do i do this?

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

I had that same problem once before, make sure you didn't switch the Crank Angle Sensor connector with the four pin connector from the trailing coil. That's a sure way to keep the car from starting

For checking the ground on the ECU I'll have to get back to you later, as I am at work right now.

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

Any luck Tommie?

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

any luck yet?